Top volcanic wines
Decanter's tastings team highlight their top wines from volcanic terroirs, with an introduction by Andy Howard MW...
The raw, destructive power of a volcano might not usually be associated with the production of distinctive, high-quality wines, but volcanic soils have added plenty of character to the wines featured below, including some from Etna, Santorini and Campania.
Why plant vines near a volcano?
The devastating effects of eruptions in Santorini (c.1600 BC), Vesuvius (79 AD) and the more regular – and recent – outbursts of Mount Etna provide sound arguments as to why winemakers should choose to plant their precious vines elsewhere.A seminar and tasting held by the Institute of Masters of Wine considered the diversity and elemental composition of volcanic soils, asking whether this imparted specific characteristics to the wines tasted. What became clear is that volcanic wines are highly terroir-oriented and that each region, sub-region or specific vineyard has a distinctive stylistic fingerprint.Elemental composition, soil and bedrock structure and drainage combine with choices made by winemakers to add to the complex mix. Volcanic wines are highly terroir-driven and should be enjoyed in this context.
Although wines produced from volcanic soils are highly diverse, making stylistic generalisations impossible, many show elevated aromatics and a saline, mineral edge to the palate which lends the wines tautness and freshness, imparting a high degree of finesse and precision.
Top volcanic terroirs:
Etna
Santorini
Campania
Azores
Soave
The Canary Islands
Top volcanic wines:
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Frank Cornelissen, Magma, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014
Thrilling, perfumed, concentrated red berry fruit with laser-like focus and purity. As expected for Nerello Mascalese, the structure is grippy and needs time to fully...
2014
Frank CornelissenEtna
Gini, Contrada di Salvarenza Vecchie Vigne, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2014
If Sandro Gini’s exquisite wines are not better known, it might have something to do with his self-effacing modesty, or perhaps with the generally low...
2014
GiniSoave
Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi, Campania, Italy, 2001
The distinctive feature of 2001 was a heavy snowfall in mid-April which caused much damage to the emerging buds, but which proved advantageous in performing...
2001
Feudi di San GregorioTaurasi
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Prephylloxera, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2015
Pre-phylloxera bush vines planted at 800m-900m on north-facing, sandy-volcanic soils with just 2% Nerello Cappucio to match the Pinot Noir-like Nerello Mascalese. Florality, spice, depth...
2015
Tenuta delle Terre NereEtna
Nardello, Vigna Turbian, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2015
Intense, with bright, focused aromas of pear and apricot plus a hint of aniseed. Substantial but remarkably fresh and juicy palate: saline and silky. Tremendous...
2015
NardelloSoave
Dr Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten Reserve Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Mosel, Germany, 2014
Characterised by its volcanic, slatey soils with a high iron content, the vineyard of Ürziger Würzgarten has produced a really weighty, textured wine in this...
2014
Dr LoosenGrosses Gewächs
Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2015
White peach, pineapple, mint and almonds with toasty oak undertones. Fleshy, fruit flavours with saline and sherbert lemon notes; dried flowers to finish. Rich and...
2015
InamaSoave
Hatzidakis, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2012
95
<p><strong>Sarah Jane Evans MW</strong><br /> Honey, baked fruits, lime and grapefruit lift. Immediately lively and bold on the palate: mouth-watering freshness with tart lemon curd ripeness, underlined by a clean and punchy minerality. Very long and concentrated.</p> <p> </p> <p><strong>Nico Manessis</strong><br /> Lemon curd on the nose. Broad and round. Spice on the full throttle palate with a long aftertaste. Plenty of character.</p> <p> </p> <p><strong>Igor Sotric</strong><br /> Huge intensity of tropical fruit, banana leaf, jasmine, flowers pine and grapefruit. Apples and stone fruit to the fore on the harmonious palate which is structured with great textrue and balanced alcohol.</p>
2012
Hatzidakis
Suertes del Marques, Vidonia Blanco, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain, 2013
95
From four plots, the 100% Listán Blanco comes from 130-year-old vines. Like a fine Meursault nutty yet braced by complex, flinty minerals. Rounder and more generous than the Trenzado Blanco (below), this is a limpid wine of shimmering elegance and deliciously well balanced.
2013
Suertes del MarquesValle de la Orotava
Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
Classic nose! Aromatic with smoke and mineral pungency and fresh lime juice. Richly fruity with a touch of sweet apple and peach before the lime-citrus...
2015
Domaine Sigalas
Hatzidakis, Assyrtiko de Mylos Vieilles Vignes, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
Intense perfume of orange blossom and a vibrant palate with strident acidity to balance the weighty, slightly off-dry tropical fruit and tannic edge.
2015
Hatzidakis
Salvo Foti, I Vigneri Vinupetra, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014
Part of a project Foti founded between Etna’s local grape growers. From vines at 700m on the north side of the volcano, where winters get...
2014
Salvo FotiEtna
Pieropan, Calvarino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2015
A blend of Garganaga and Trebbiano di Soave, this delivers more stone fruit and less spice than the regular Soave Classico. Nonetheless, it still has...
2015
PieropanSoave
Suertes del Marques, Vidonia Listán Blanco, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain, 2016
From pre-phylloxera vines, this is a prodigy of balance and discreet savoury characters, intriguing and delicate, long but restrained. Plenty of extract, sound structure and...
2016
Suertes del MarquesValle de la Orotava
Azores Wine Company, António Maçanita Arinto dos Açores Sur Lies, Pico, Azores, Portugal, 2016
Pale and interesting, this tensile, mineral wine has a rapier-like attack, with steely grapefruit. Salt-flecked pink grapefruit and oyster shell notes; long finish.
2016
Azores Wine CompanyPico
Tenuta di Fessina, A’ Puddara Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014
A striking example of Carricante, grown at 900m on Etna’s southern slopes. This 2014 has a very pure and incisive nose with waxy lemons, beeswax...
2014
Tenuta di FessinaEtna
Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2016
93
Appetisingly fresh, zippy nose: lime juice, pears and salty sea-spray. Beautifully fresh, dry and intense with incisive, but modulated, acidity and an elegantly textural feel. Fruit in the citrus spectrum. Palate goes on and on.
2016
Argyros
Vassaltis, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
The Vassaltis winery, which takes its name from the local black volcanic rock, is one of the latest additions to this area’s long tradition of...
2015
Vassaltis
Pietradolce, Archineri Carricante, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2016
Located at 850m on the eastern slopes of Etna, 100-120 year old pre-phylloxera Carricante vines give precise, stony, mineral flavours from volcanic soils, freshened by...
2016
PietradolceEtna
Suertes del Marques, El Ciruelo Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain, 2013
Only 2,000 bottles are made of this foot-trodden Listán Negro, fermented with its stems and aged for one year in old barrels. It has excellent...
2013
Suertes del MarquesValle de la Orotava
Ignios Orígenes, Marmajuelo, Tenerife, Spain, 2015
A barrel-aged white that smells alluringly of lava and dried herbs. It is round and individual, revealing lovely texture on the palate, finishing with notes...
2015
Ignios Orígenes
Acroterra, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
Greece’s top oenologist, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, has created a strikingly good wine from ungrafted 80-year-old vines on Santorini’s volcanic pumice soils. Honey and yellow stone fruit...
2015
Acroterra
Passopisciaro, Etna, Sicily, Italy, 2014
Explosive on the nose, showing power and forthright cherry and red-fruit aromas. Broad and fleshy for Etna, this is concentrated and tannic, chewy and forceful...
2014
PassopisciaroEtna
Argyros, Atlantis White, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
A fine example of mineral and zesty Assyrtiko, made from 60 year old vines. In fact, the precise blend is 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani, 5%...
2015
ArgyrosSantorini
Grace, Cuvee Misawa Koshu, Akeno, Yamanashi, Japan, 2016
91
A pristine, gentle wine with elegant floral scent, crisp apple and bright acidity. A delicate style; great accompaniment to shellfish, this is a fine example which will appeal to all white wine lovers.
2016
GraceAkeno
Hatzidakis, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece, 2015
90
Textbook, mouthwatering, smoky-mineral volcanic nose. Deep, rich lime and lemon fruit; delicate creaminess, then spicy, citrus-zest acidity and fresh, salt-edged finish. Classic. Good value.
2015
Hatzidakis
