Vouvray and Montlouis: how do they compare?

The Vouvray and Montlouis appellations are located in the Touraine region of the Loire Valley, 10km from the city of Tours and easily accessible by train from Paris.

Although they both enjoy proximity to the Loire river, facing each other across the water, they are quite different when it comes to terroir and wine production.

For one thing, Vouvray lies on the right bank, to the north of the seemingly languorous Loire – the longest river in France – while the lesser-known Montlouis is on the left bank. Nevertheless, the two have the omnipresence of that fabulous white grape variety Chenin Blanc, and their appellation production is limited to white wine.

A grape in common

Chenin Blanc is an alluring grape variety whose origins are enshrouded in mystery. It is not easy to find agreement about it among winegrowers and ampelographers. DNA analyses have not settled the question, but what seems incontrovertible is that the Savagnin grape, of Jura fame, is one of its parents. The jury is out as to the exact identity of the other parent, but Chenin Blanc does have a sibling relation to both Trousseau and Sauvignon Blanc, born of the same parentage.

Chenin Blanc is certainly an astonishing grape variety in its own right, expressive of its terroir origins and capable of producing quality wines in an array of styles. These range from sparkling to dry, off-dry, semi-dry, and all the way to lusciously sweet, including botrytised versions.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 Vouvray and Montlouis wine to try

What styles of wine are produced?

The whole stylistic range is produced in the two appellations, with the choice often depending on grape ripeness in the context of the variable climatic conditions that prevail in this region.

For challenging vintages in which grapes struggle to ripen, an obvious option is to increase the amount of sparkling wine, but in years where ripeness is not an issue and botrytis develops at the end of the growing season, some superlative sweet wines can be produced.

The wines of Vouvray tend to have more tension than those of Montlouis-sur-Loire, and more bewitching flinty aromas. Often Montlouis wines have more residual sugar than their neighbours from Vouvray, which makes them suitable as an accompaniment to a greater range of dishes, especially Asian food.

Climate

The climatic conditions of these two appellations are intimately linked to the local landscape, characterised by a number of valleys of varying exposure to sunlight and air movement, which creates specific conditions for each appellation.

This can prove critical when it comes to providing shelter for the vines from cold air and frost, especially for the more vulnerable Vouvray area, whereas the vineyards of Montlouis benefit from a more regular orientation with south-facing slopes.

Soils

Both appellations lie on a special soil type known in Touraine as tuffeau, the yellowish metamorphic rock dating back to the Turonian period (93.9 million-89.8 million years ago). This soft, porous chalk substance is what makes the distinctive maisons troglodytes possible – houses dug right into the limestone cliffs.

Vouvray has its own distinctive soil mix, including a calcareous clay rich in limestone known as aubuis that extends 30-40cm from the surface, and another deeper layer of siliceous sand and clay known as perruches.

Montlouis stretches over some 380ha on mainly clay-siliceous soils, with a layer of windblown sand and pebbles in some spots.

Vouvray is much larger with its 2,200ha, which explains to a large degree the greater heterogeneity of Vouvray wines compared to those from Montlouis.

The future is bright

There are signs of growing interest in these two appellations among international consumers attracted by the striking freshness and chiselled profile of the best dry whites from these areas, as well as by the well-structured and vivacious sweet wines.

Such is the special magic of the Chenin Blanc grape that even the sparkling wines have regained favour, especially for their appealing quality-to-price ratio for this category.

10 Vouvray and Montlouis wines to try:

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