Loire 2021 white wines: vintage report and new releases

The 2021 vintage is very small in volume in the Loire , and is markedly different from the unbroken series of fine vintages from 2014 until now. 2021 has been frequently heralded as a return to a more classic style: more noticeable acidity, lower alcohol levels and less opulent, ripe fruit – a return to Loire wines’ famous 'nervosité', which is characterised by vibrancy and liveliness. Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 36 top Loire white wines from 2020 and 2021 [subscriber-content] A tricky growing season Once again the Loire was hit by April frosts at the start of the month, culminating in the night of 11 April. Spring frosts are always a threat in this northerly wine region but in recent years, spring frosts have become more prevalent - in the past six years, for example, the Loire has been hit by frost in 2016, 2017, 2019 and 2021. Instead of being a single devastating night of frost, as was the case in April 1991, the norm has become a series of nights below freezing. Ivan Massonnat of Domaine Belargus in Anjou said: ‘From the end of March to the beginning of April, our team spent precisely 15 nights standing, fighting alongside our vines. Mother Nature has no schedules: she tested us even more than in previous years. There were too many freezing nights for us to protect our entire vineyard. Day after day, the uninjured areas therefore became increasingly rare, until only the three hectares of Quarts de Chaume remained.’ [caption id="attachment_481084" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Ivan Massonnat tasting at Domanie Belargus. Credit: Jim Budd[/caption] Sadly, losses of 70% were commonplace in 2021. Unusually, even Sancerre - which normally escapes substantial frost damage due to its steep slopes - was hit severely in 2021, including vineyards on the higher ground. Fortunately there are now many more frost protection systems in place than there were seven or eight years ago, but the type of frost is often unpredictable. The cold spring was followed by a poor, wet summer that provoked mildew, adding to the misery inflicted by the frost. Fortunately, September and October were sunny and dry, saving the vintage. Picking started considerably later than in recent vintages. The Ban des Vendanges - the official start of the harvest period - for Muscadet, which is always among the first to start, was on 15 September in 2021. In comparison, in recent years Muscadet has started in early September or even the latter part of August: the 2020 harvest began on 26 August. [breakout]

Loire white wine 2021: top producers At the time of tasing, many wines were yet to be bottled and released

Claude Lafond Domaine Cady Domaine des Herbauges Famille Bourgeois Jean-François Mérieau [/breakout]

[caption id="attachment_481086" align="aligncenter" width="623"] Cross above the village of Chavignol with the town of Sancerre in the distance. Credit: Jim Budd[/caption] Smaller crops but promising quality Overall, the volume of the 2021 Loire vintage was down 40% on the previous year. It is closer in style to 2013 - an even later vintage which didn't see the Muscadet picked until 23 September - although it is considerably better and more promising than that poor vintage. David Vigan, manager at Château du Brueil in Anjou, said: ‘Given the difficult year, the quality of 2021 is astonishingly good. Overall, we were down 50% in volume so we had concentrated fruit in some parcels due to the small crop.’ Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups had a similar experience: ‘We were down 50% at 19hL/ha but the quality was a nice surprise with good mature grapes.’ The shortage of grapes and the difficult conditions means that some producers will not have made their full range of wines. Jean-Marie Bourgeois, of Famille Bourgeois confirmed, ‘We haven’t made our top cuvées, like Jadis, in 2021.’ [breakout] Loire white wines 2021: value picks Domaine des Herbauges, Fief Guérin Sur Lie, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 2021 Joseph de Maistre, Le Prieuré de Saint-Céols, Menetou-Salon 2021 Domaine Cady, Cheninsolite, Anjou Blanc 2021 Domaine Jacky Marteau, Touraine 2021 Desprat Saint-Verny, Chardonnay 809 The Lost Vineyard, Côtes d'Auvergne 2021 [/breakout] With their marked backbone of acidity, well-made 2021 whites should age well provided they have enough fruit to carry and balance the acidity. In particular, there are some very good sweet wines made in Anjou in 2021, including from Quarts de Chaume. It is in difficult vintages that good producers really come to the fore. Unfortunately it is evident that some 2021s have green fruit and rasping acidity, so you need to buy 2021s with care and expect prices to have risen, due in part to the small vintage but also because of recent substantial increases in the price of glass bottles and cartons. [breakout] Know your Loire white vintages 2017: Once again spring frosts reduced the crop, but less severely than 2016. Many very good whites with balance and finesse. 5/5

2018: A rare frost-free, very hot vintage with often high levels of alcohol – some whites just too powerful, heavy and lacking acidity. Large vintage. 3/5

2019: Another frost-affected vintage but it produced brilliantly balanced whites with some producers saying it is the best dry white vintage they have ever made. Will need time to show best but should age extremely well. 5/5

2020: Hot vintage with often concentrated, ripe white wines, some with very high alcohols up to 15%. However, there is more freshness and balance than 2018. Should mature more quickly than 2019s. 4/5.

2021: Most difficult vintage since 2013, with a small crop due to spring frosts, mildew and poor flowering for some varieties. Overall quality better than feared – return to a fresher, more traditional Loire style. There is a big range of quality between producers. 3/5

[/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Jim Budd's top Loire whites from 2020 and 2021: While many 2021 Loire whites haven't been bottled yet, Jim has recommended 13 that are already available, plus 23 2020s - all top picks to drink now. [wine-collection] Related content: New release Loire reds: the best from 2019 and 2020 New release Loire white wines: the best from 2019 and 2020 Loire alternatives to Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé: expert’s choice