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Walls: Roussillon’s old vines are its best drought defence

In the last of his series of Roussillon articles, Matt Walls looks into why old vines might be key to the future of Roussillon wines, whether old vines make better wines, and which old-vine wines to seek out.

According to Antoine Lespès, research and development manager at Domaine Lafage just outside Perpignan, the average rainfall at this Roussillon estate between 2010 and 2023 was just 550mm per year. These last few years have been particularly dry: in 2021 and 2022 there was 340mm. In 2023, just 240mm – ‘like Marrakesh,’ says Lespès.

Thankfully, Roussillon has a natural defence against drought: 50% of the region’s vines are over 50 years old. Old vines with deep, well-established root systems pump water from below the ground, instead of relying exclusively on that which falls from the sky. And this is just one advantage of having plenty of venerable old plants.


Scroll down to see notes and scores for 20 old vine wines to try



20 old vine wines to try:

The wines below are made from vines at least 60 years old. Wines are listed by style then score.


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