Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires 2014
Charles Heidsieck has released only the fifth vintage of its blanc de blancs prestige cuvée Blanc des Millénaires since the celebrated 1995. The 2014 vintage, which follows on from the 2007, marks a subtle shift.
While the blend still hails from the Côte des Blancs villages of Cramant, Avize, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus, this vintage is a little younger upon release than previous editions, having seen just under nine years on lees.
If fans of previous, extremely long lees-aged editions of this cuvée might see this as cause for alarm, then their fears are misplaced; this is a beautifully pure, pristine Blanc des Millénaires that promises to be one of the region’s highlights from this cool, delicate vintage.
Henriot 2014
The same vintage character is certainly present in Henriot’s 2014 vintage, which is in some ways even more reserved upon release. This is a smart, well-priced vintage offering for those with a little patience, made in Henriot’s naturally crisp, controlled and reductive style.
Devaux, Cuvée D 2014
Devaux, in the Côte des Bar, has turned out an approachable and charming Cuvée D 2014 alongside the latest release of the ambitious oak-embracing Stenopé from 2013, made in collaboration with Rhône winemaker Michel Chapoutier.
Gosset, Grand Millésime 2016
Moving on to more recent vintages,Gosset, based in Aÿ, becomes the latest house to add an offering from 2016 – a vintage whose reputation appears to be surpassing initial expectations after what seemed like a season split between extreme rain and extreme sun.
Grand Millésime is a creative blend led by Chardonnay, featuring wines not only from the premiers and grands crus of the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs, but from the Petite Montagne and Coteaux Sud d’Épernay, too.
This is a release that trades on the year’s approachability, even if Gosset is known for its tense, pared-back style.
Piper-Heidsieck 2018
Piper-Heidsieck continues a strong run of vintage releases with the 2018, one of the first major houses to release a vintage cuvée from what was an extraordinary vintage in terms of generosity of yield and clean, healthy, ripe grapes.
Accordingly this is a more overt vintage than the pristine 2014, and less concentrated than 2012; however there is an impressive structure and length for 2018 in this fine, polished blend from the first vintage since current cellar master Émilien Boutillat joined the winemaking team.
A cuvée which continues to punch above its weight.
Ayala, Le Blanc de Blancs A/18
In a similar vein, Ayala, neighbours and sister house to Bollinger in Aÿ, has relaunched its vintage-dated blanc de blancs as A/18 from the 2018 vintage, including fruit not only from the Côte des Blancs but from chalky Bisseuil in the Montagne de Reims.
Ayala has made it its mission to embrace Champagne’s Chardonnay over the last decade, with a larger percentage of Chardonnay in its NV Brut Majeur than any of the other Grande Marque houses.
With 2018’s solar, approachable character, this is a slightly more immediate release than the excellent 2016 vintage.
Pol Roger 2018
Pol Roger also enters the fold with 2018 as the first vintage release made under cellar master Damien Cambres. Cambres pointed out that 2018’s enormous yields risked ‘some dilution’.
They also meant that the team could be ‘more selective’ for the vintage cuvée, which follows tradition at Pol Roger in being 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.
Cambres is keen to point out that, despite the heat of the year and lower-than-average acidities, this was not ‘a year of extremely high maturity – we were able to pick with a lot of freshness.’
Ruinart, Blanc Singulier Édition 19
The following vintage, 2019, is one where the power and ripeness really ramped up in Champagne – exactly the sort of conditions Ruinart is looking to experiment with in its new cuvée Blanc Singulier, which tries to imagine ‘the future of blanc de blancs’ in the new climate era, according to cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis.
This imaginative blanc de blancs looks to celebrate, rather than hide, the exuberance of ripe, expressive Chardonnay, bringing together an unusual series of crus mostly outside the Côte des Blancs.
Despite 2019’s heatwaves and powerful ripeness, it was ‘overall not as hot’ as 2018, according to Panaïotis, pointing to a cooler spring and a later harvest, with livelier acidity in the wines.
Telmont, Réserve de la Terre
Finally, Telmont, in Damery, has been on the front foot when it comes to environmental commitments since its acquisition by Remy Cointreau (and the addition of a high profile shareholder in Leonardo di Caprio) in 2020.
Two commitments in particular makes Telmont stand out; one is converting both its own and its grape suppliers’ vineyards to certified organic production by 2031, and the other is becoming ‘climate positive’ by 2030.
At a time when Champagne is in need of houses willing to raise the bar when it comes to the transparency of their grape supply (and despite the cynicism that sometimes comes with a celebrity endorsement), these are sincere and meaningful efforts, marked by the release of 64,800 bottles of Réserve de la Terre, based on the 2020 vintage.
This fully organic release, although youthful, is the most promising yet in the current era.
Spring & summer 2024 round-up
See all of the new Champagne releases from 2024 that Tom Hewson has tasted and rated:
Ayala, Le Blanc de Blancs A/18
Billecart-Salmon, Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs 2012
Billecart-Salmon, Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2012
Billecart-Salmon 2016
Billecart-Salmon, Le Clos St-Hilaire 2007
Bollinger, La Grande Année 2015
Bollinger, La Grande Année Rosé 2015
Bollinger, PN VZ 19
Lallier, Réflexion R.020
Devaux, D Millésimé 2014
Gosset, Grand Millésime 2016
Henriot 2014
Krug 2011
Lanson, Le Rosé Création 67
Piper-Heidsieck 2018
Pol Roger, Brut Vintage 2018
Ruinart, Blanc Singulier Édition 19
Ruinart, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2013
Telmont, Réserve de la Terre
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé 2015
11 new Champagne releases from spring & summer 2024:
Related articles
