Spanish Garnacha: panel tasting results
A varied but impressive set of results for the often overlooked Garnacha, proving that there are many good things to say about this diverse Spanish wine. See the best rated wines here.
With 78% of wines recommended, this was a solid tasting that showed Spanish Garnacha’s diversity and quality from all corners of Spain, with Méntrida the star.
This was a key Decanter panel tasting for Spain because Garnacha ‘is one of its historic varieties which has been unfairly overlooked’, began Sarah Jane Evans MW. ‘I think that’s partly because Garnacha has a reputation for being alcoholic, oxidising easily and not ageing well. So there were lots of negatives piled up against it.’
But what this tasting showed, she said, was that there were so many good things to say about Garnacha. ‘When it is at its best, it has this amazing aromatic fruit. On the palate, I found a lovely orange peel character with red fruits too and good freshness. Also there was lots of diversity.’ With such a range of wines across price points, regions and vintages, quality was bound to be variable. And so it proved.
Nevertheless, our judges were broadly impressed by what they tasted. According to Pierre Mansour, there was ‘quite a handful of disappointing wines, a good amount of really solid wines, and several which were really exquisite.
‘Some of that variation in quality is because Garnacha is very sensitive to yield and to where it is grown,’ he continued. ‘So part of the excitement is that it conveys a real sense of place. I also think the winemaking was generally very high quality.’
That sentiment chimed with Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, who commented: ‘With only about four exceptions, there wasn’t an excess of winemaking. Very few wines were oaky. When you are dealing with wonderful raw material, don’t destroy it. Fortunately, that didn’t happen very often today.’ Mansour noted three distinct wine styles in the tasting. ‘The first tended to be deep in colour, quite flamboyant with lots of flavour and were very impressive wines. The second style was more fine, delicate and scented. And the third style comprised solid, refreshing wines from cooler climates with lovely vibrancy, succulence and fruitiness. Many of these are not expensive and represent good value.’
Arrayán, La Suerte, Méntrida, Spain, 2012
95
<p>Arrayán’s success is symbolic of the renewed energy and enthusiasm in some of Spain’s forgotten regions – in this case Méntrida. The approach may be modern, but it is based on the old vines and history of Garnacha in the region. The vineyard is on poor sandy soils at 700m – just the kind of higher-altitude site sought to prevent the resulting wine from toppling over into blowsiness. The project was launched in 1988 with the help of two top names: the Australian viticultural expert Richard Smart, who has worked across the Iberian peninsula, and in the winery the enthusiastic and insightful Miguel Angel de Gregorio of Rioja’s Finca Allende.</p> <p> </p> <p><strong><em>Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW </em></strong><br /> Delicate, perfumed, floral. Balanced, deep, well-structured, complex and long. Lovely!</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Sarah Jane Evans MW </strong></em><br /> Pale in colour but impressively full of flavour. Vivid, characterful and mid-weight, with a long finish. Fresh, with glorious texture. This is an original!</p> <p> </p> <p><strong><em>Pierre Mansour </em></strong><br /> Subtle, fresh nose with some spice. Wonderfully integrated palate showing drive and presence. Fruit flavours are vibrant. Really classy.</p>
2012
Arrayán
Bodega San Francisco Javier, Palacio de Sada Crianza, Navarra, Spain, 2011
95
<p>This winery has extensive vineyard holdings, altogether some 500ha, the result of its former life as a co-operative with 38 partners. Navarra’s co-ops were built around Garnacha production until the decision late last century to renovate the region by converting to Cabernets and Merlots. The winery relaunched itself over a decade ago, making the traditional repertoire of rosado, crianza and reserva. Its holdings in the Baja Montaña zone also include 200ha of old Garnacha vines, which go into the top wine. This excellent crianza shows exactly what good young Navarra Garnacha is all about, with straightforward expression of fruit and a year in oak.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW </strong></em><br /> Discreet, restrained and elegant, with classic red berry fruit and lovely floral hints. Well structured, finely grained, sensual, deep and complex. Top-quality Garnacha fruit.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Sarah Jane Evans MW </strong></em><br /> Floral with cedar notes and oranges paired with red fruits. This is an opulent style of Garnacha. Deliciously long and succulent palate. Spicy, savoury finish. Very good wine.</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Pierre Mansour </strong></em><br /> Tarry nose and an intense, controlled palate of fine tannins and a full finish. Definitely a food-worthy wine.</p>
2011
Bodega San Francisco Javier
Bodegas San Martin, Alma de Unx, Navarra, Spain, 2010
93
<p>Attractive, mature notes of leather, spice and succulent blackcurrant. Powerful mid-palate laden with impressively ripe and concentrated fruits, round tannins and great structure. A lovely, classic, evolved style with plenty of life.</p>
2010
Bodegas San Martin
Bodegas San Martin, Pasolasmonjas, Navarra, Spain, 2011
93
<p>Elegantly restrained. Opens up reluctantly to genuine floral notes and nice red fruit. Stylish palate: juicy, smooth, integrated and harmonious. Attractive and approachable now but will develop well. Very individual.</p>
2011
Bodegas San Martin
Daniel Landi, Cantos del Diablo, Méntrida, Spain, 2012
93
Rich, ripe approach to Garnacha with a fine, perfumed nose. Silky palate with lovely red berry fruit expression and a velvety texture. Harmonious and persistent with a lingering finish; excellent.
2012
Daniel Landi
Finca Sandoval, Signo, Manchuela, Spain, 2010
90
Fresh, clean, fruity nose that is still youthful and vibrant. Lovely smoothness on the fleshy palate with a long finish. Great wine – not overtly complex, but highly pleasurable.
2010
Finca Sandoval
Vinyes Domènech, Garnatxa Vella, Teixar, Montsant, Spain, 2011
90
<p>Herbs and roasted fruits with spice and smoke on the complex nose. Supple, smooth palate that is evenly balanced and generous. Will improve over several years, but it is highly enjoyable now.</p>
2011
Vinyes Domènech
Edetària, Via Edetana, Terra Alta, Spain, 2012
90
Herbaceous, peppery, rustic nose which needs some air to open up. A wonder of concentration and balance – intriguingly long, amazingly open and very approachable. A spicy finish with good grip and plenty of black fruit.
2012
Edetària
