New-wave Calvados: These Normandy distillers want to change your mind

New-wave Calvados: Not just a digestif

The exceptional apple brandies of Normandy are too often typecast in a role that sees them trapped on the digestif trolley, where they certainly excel, but are overlooked in other moments.

Some modern Calvados distillers intend to change that. Produced within a defined area along France’s northern coast, according to its appellation d’origine, using specific varieties of apples and pears, and adhering to defined methods, Calvados has grand tradition behind it – but that doesn’t restrict it from going beyond the after-dinner occasion.

Expressing beautiful orchard fruit, tempered by time in oak, this is a spirit for any occasion, with untapped mixing potential.

Some contemporary producers recognise this. Environmentally conscious Avallen champions the spirit’s sustainable credentials, while Christian Drouin pushes boundaries with interesting cask finishes.

Calvados and cocktails: a perfect pairing

Organic producer Domaine de la Flaguerie encourages mixing of its versatile Calvados.

‘For too long, Calvados has been seen as a spirit for a certain generation, enjoyed in a certain way – after dinner, in a certain glass,’ says Flaguerie owner Jean-Olivier Petrich.

‘The new wave is about creating a product made to be consumed differently, pushed from its traditional context. Its move into cocktails feels completely natural once you taste them.’

Petrich sees Flaguerie’s younger, vibrant expressions served in highballs, perhaps on a sunny terrace, while those with more age are better suited to stirred-down classic cocktails.

Back to the future: Reviving the Trou Normand tradition

At Christian Drouin, in addition to its cask finishes and a new apple-based aperitif named ABC, the focus is on reviving forgotten ways of enjoying these spirits.

Among these is the Trou Normand, in which a scoop of apple sorbet is doused in Calvados and enjoyed between courses.

‘There are many delightful ways to enjoy Calvados, including a wide range of excellent cocktails,’ says third-generation owner Guillaume Drouin.

Clear thinking

Drouin has also revived a traditional Norman style, Blanche – essentially an unaged apple eau-de-vie that captures the essence of the fruit.

‘It’s often met with pleasant surprise,’ says Drouin. ‘It’s remarkably smooth, with distinctive, intense apple flavours.’

Flaguerie, too, produces a Blanche. ‘It’s leading the cocktail conversation – think premium gin or blanco tequila, but with a crisp, green-apple soul,’ says Petrich.

‘Bartenders are loving it. We’re seeing it in everything from Martinis to Margaritas.

One to try

Domaine de la Flaguerie 2 Year Old Organic Calvados, Normandy, France

£37.50-£39/70cl Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange

A lively, youthful expression from an organic orchard, with juicy red apple in abundance and some cinnamon spice, together evoking freshly baked apple pie. Ideal for long serves with a mixer, or for adding pure apple notes to a cocktail. Alcohol 40%

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