Barolo producers celebrate Cannubi victory

Italian wine producers are claiming victory after a tribunal ruled to return the Cannubi vineyard area in Barolo to its previous size.

Cannubi vineyards – [Image: kobrand]

A tribunal in Rome annulled an earlier decree that had expanded the area to 34ha from 15ha.

The decision follows an appeal from 11 out of 19 Cannubi producers, concerned that the prestigious wine name was being diluted.

Following a 2010 ruling, a Barolo DOCG wine formerly labeled as Cannubi Boschis, Cannubi San Lorenzo, Cannubi Muscatel or Cannubi Valletta could, from the 2010 vintage, be relabeled as purely ‘Cannubi’.

Now the tribunal has ruled grapes from these four subzones must no longer be allowed to produce straight Cannubi.

‘Justice has been served,’ said David Berry Green, the Piedmont-based buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd.

He told Decanter.com the decision is a victory against those seeking to ‘hoodwink’ consumers.

‘As a buyer, I’m not going to stand for it,’ he said. ‘I’m looking to ensure that when consumers pay a premium price for a top single vineyard wine such as Barolo Cannubi, Vigna Rionda or Monprivato, they are receiving the genuine article, 100% transparent.’

One of the main companies in favour of the expanded Cannubi area, Marchesi di Barolo, declined to comment on the tribunal’s decision.

Separately, however, one senior source close to the situation told Decanter.com that the dispute is far from over.

He said all producers are now in limbo and must await government officials’ response to the ruling. ‘Sadly, this will probably end in the high court,’ he said, on condition of anonymity.

Written by Chris Mercer