Bordeaux: Semillon shortage threatens future vintages
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A group of high profile Bordeaux producers are calling attention to a shortage of Semillon which may impede production in the future.
Following promising comments about 2007 Bordeaux whites, Laurent Lebrun, technical director at Chateau Olivier in Pessac-Leognan, expressed concern about the dearth of good quality Semillon vines available in Bordeaux and elsewhere. This may prove problematic for replanting, particularly in Pessac-Leognan and Sauternes.
‘As Semillon becomes less fashionable worldwide, fewer clones are grown in nurseries,’ Lebrun told decanter.com. ‘Finding good quality new vines is getting more difficult.’
While it was once the most-planted grape in the world, it is now rare outside the region – 95% of France’s Semillon is grown in Bordeaux, the remainder grows in Chile, South Africa and Australia. The grape doesn’t even make it into the top 10 most popular varieties.
In Bordeaux, Semillon is often blended with Sauvignon blanc for both sweet and dry wines. The Bordelais worry that if they must rely too heavily on Sauvignon Blanc, the character profile of their wines might change.
With this in mind, 17 producers have formed an association to grow their own clones. The group includes among others Chateau d’Yquem, Chateau Olivier, Chateau Suduiraud and Chateau La Tour Blanche.
‘There needs to be a better clonal selection to keep the quality level of the wines high,’ said Xavier Planty, director at Chateau Guiraud in Sauternes.
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‘The more diversity you have in a parcel, the more you can protect against diseases – and of course the greater the diversity of aromas and flavours.’
Written by Jane Anson
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
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