Burgundy 2008: Top 3 from O.W. Loeb

It’s rare to come across a new producer at these January tastings, but at O.W.Loeb a young grower from Marsannay was introduced. His wines were full of personality and inexpensive.Marsannay ‘Clos du Roy’. Rich, dense, and structured, this is a rugged red, with vigour in place of finesse. Serious and ageworthy. 17. £149 IB.Domaine Arlaud’s Cyprien Arlaud produced a beautiful range of well-knit wines from Morey and Gevrey. I particularly liked Morey St Denis Premier Cru Ruchots: ripe stylish raspberry aromas; supple and concentrated, seamless in texture, with finesse and length. 17-17.5. £345 IB.Pierre Damoy owns vast tracts of Grands Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, so he keeps his prices (relatively) modest. There’s a very promising Chambertin Clos de Beze: dense oaky nose, with black cherries and Indian spices; full-bodied and with assertive acidity, this is an explosive and complex wine. 17.5-18. £850 IB.Stephen Brook