Jefford Bichot harvest, Burgundy
Harvested grapes at Bichot.
(Image credit: Andrew Jefford)

Run by the pragmatic, laid-back and pretension-averse Albéric Bichot from his house amid the vines of Pommard, the wines of this mid-sized négociant have been rapidly improving over the last decade. Here are four to look out for.

La Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru, Long-Depaquit 2013

From just 2.24 ha in Vaudésir plus a 0.11 ha nibble of Les Preuses, this lieux-dit monopole among the Grand Crus has only had three owners in five centuries. The 2013 is a soft, graceful Chablis with scents of linden blossom and vine flower and a deep, structured, mellow yet vivid flavour: ample and mouthfilling, yet poised too. I like Grand Crus to have a little breadth to them, to take them beyond Premier Cru pungency and stony asperity; this does.

Secrét de Famille Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Rouge, Bichot 2013

88 pts

A parcel selection with lower yields and more fastidious handling than for most regional red Burgundy. Clear and light in colour, with a pungent blast of raspberry and cherry dominating the aromas; pure, fresh, long and tapered flavours, ideal for serving lightly chilled in order to point up the subdued but purposeful tannins. Delicious and refreshing.

Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens, Domaine du Pavillon 2013

90pts

Deep red, with intriguing scents of wax, incense and metal shavings. A cascade of plums on the palate: chewy and exuberant. Pure Pommard.

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Malconsorts, Domaine du Clos Frantin 2013

91pts

Some evident oak but a gale of orchard blossom beneath. Vivid, pure and resonant flavours with plenty of sinew and sap: a classical mid-term mouthful from the village we all dream of.

Andrew Jefford
Andrew Jefford

Andrew Jefford has written for Decanter magazine since 1988.  His monthly magazine column is widely followed, and he also writes occasional features and profiles both for the magazine and for Decanter.com. He has won many awards for his work, including eight Louis Roederer Awards and eight Glenfiddich Awards. He was Regional Chair for Regional France and Languedoc-Rossillon at the inaugural Decanter World Wine Awards in 2004, and has judged in every edition of the competition since, becoming a Co-Chair in 2018. After a year as a senior research fellow at Adelaide University between 2009 and 2010, Jefford moved with his family to the Languedoc, close to Pic St-Loup. He also acts as academic advisor to The Wine Scholar Guild.

Roederer awards 2016: International Wine Columnist of the Year