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Deputy Editor, decanter.com

Réserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac, 2000

I was caught in two minds this week.

It had been a while since I’d properly sat down to a worthwhile glass of anything from the New World, but there was something nagging at me to stick to claret, just this once. A good choice, in the end.

Glorious dark fruit, leather and cedar protruded from the glass – I really love how opulence is the standout characteristic from a great Bordeaux vintage. The tannins were soft, the development kind, and the setting, well, televisual.

I initially felt a little guilty for robbing such a bottle of a long and happy cellarage – I very quickly got over it.

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