Tasting the latest release of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Three preeminent merchants join forces to showcase the latest release from Domaine Marquis d'Angerville followed by a lunch. Ella Lister attended and chooses her favourite wines.
Three competing UK merchants – Corney & Barrow, Justerini & Brooks, and Armit – came together in March to hold a tasting of the latest vintage from Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, with a lunch afterwards to taste older vintages alongside food.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is situated in the heart of Volnay, in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. It is owned and run by Guillaume d’Angerville, who left his Paris banking job to take over in 2003 following the sudden death of his father, Jacques d’Angerville.
This time last year d’Angerville described his tenth vintage – 2013 – as Cistercian in its austerity. Just released, the 2014 vintage is more opulent, but not exactly sybaritic. ‘I would put it with the cool vintages,’ says d’Angerville.
- TASTE: Nine top value red Beaune
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville has had a challenging few years, with 2009 being ‘the last normal vintage we’ve had; the last that was relaxed,’ says its owner. The domaine has since been plagued by hail, and 2014 was no exception, with a hailstorm on 30th June. The team at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville lost no time in treating the bruised vines with valerian and arnica (the domaine has been biodynamic since 2006), and though yields were affected, quality was preserved, resulting in classy, energetic wines.
- VISIT: Beaune: where to visit
With lunch, the focus was the premier cru Champans, often overlooked in the shadow of Clos des Ducs. Champans is the domaine’s largest holding, at 3.98 hectares, with vines averaging 35 years old. As we tasted the warmer 2009 and the cooler 2011 side-by-side, another intriguing contrast emerged echoing the 2014 and 2013 dynamic.
‘The aromas in the winery were very exuberant, and became more distinguished during élévage,’ recalls d’Angerville of the 2009 vintage. The 2011 – served from magnum, was more poised and restrained. ‘I continue to believe this vintage has been overshadowed,’ declared d’Angerville, and this wine certainly deserves a second look.
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, Burgundy, France, 2014
(Still in barrel) The highly decadent, inviting bouquet is redolent of red fruit. Suavely textured on the palate, this wine is poised and elegant, with a gorgeous balance and purity.
2014
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru En Champans, Burgundy, France, 2011
(From magnum) Pretty, enticing and poised on the nose, with violet and a touch of liquorice. A lovely purity of fruit in the mouth – ripe but not heavy.
2011
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru En Champans, Burgundy, France, 2009
Gorgeously pure on the nose with a pretty freshness. In the mouth this is richer and more voluptuous, with a nice gaminess and hedonistic soused cherries.
2009
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Burgundy, France, 2014
Sensuous red fruit, and crème patissière bursting with vanilla seeds. Beautifully poised on the palate, with a fresh, taut structure. Moreish and intriguing.
2014
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru Clos des Angles, Burgundy, France, 2014
Grown-up and inky on the nose with pointed black fruit – especially bilberries – and charcoal. An extraordinary juiciness enlivens every nook and cranny of the mouth, with a powerful tannic structure looming behind the scenes.
2014
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
