Beaune: Where to visit

Anthony Hanson MW picks out his top eleven spots, from wine bars to restaurants to markets, to visit in his Beaune travel guide.

Anthony Hanson MW’s guide to where to visit in Beaune:

1. La Maison du Colombier
Roland Chanliaud brought some of his favourite bottles with him when moving to this wine bar from Le Jardin des Remparts. There is speedily served food (charcuterie, cheeses, tapas) with many wines by the glass.

2. Fromagerie Alain Hess
A must-visit on Place Carnot for a wide range of cheeses and local items. Also be sure to buy some of France’s best chocolate, from Chocolatier Bonnat. All chocoholics like me will want to stock up here.

3. Caves Madeleine
Long-serving chef Martial is now the owner here; careful cooking and friendly service are maintained. You can share a long table with other guests, or eat at small tables. Passionate about fine ingredients, with interesting wines by glass and bottle. Tel:+33(0)380229330

4. Bissoh-Sushi
Madame Sachi and her husband now have a second venue in Rue Maufoux, with chef at the grill, but this – just off the boulevard – remains the classic refuge in Beaune for those seeking Japanese delicacies (with a fine wine list).

5. Boucherie Vossot
For a picnic overlooking the vines, this is Beaune’s best butcher, for local parsley ham, pâtés and terrines, or slices of rosette saucisson (there are more than 60 homemade items). Tel : +33 (0)3 80 22 29 74

6. Le Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Hostellerie Levernois
Just a 10-minute drive from Beaune, this a charming, stream-side spot in summer, or snuggle up to an open fire in winter. Fine food with Relais & Château service, at bistro prices.

7. Le Comptoir des Tontons
Seasonal ingredients are locally sourced from small farms and market gardeners, then cooked with care by Pépita. The brave can experiment with ‘natural’ wines alongside many Burgundian classics.

8. Restaurant La Ciboulette
Always a warm welcome here from the patronne, Madame Mâle, with dependable bourgeois cooking, interesting bottles on the list and friendly pricing. Tel:+33(0)380247072

9. La Dilletante
A wine bar with food, whose owner, Lolo, has a keen nose for tasty, seasonal vegetables and fruit (80% locally grown). There is great Iberico ham, with both unusual and classic wines – some are offered blind to clients, if they wish. There are also two Burgundy-brewed beers, and ciders. An easy walk just off the ring-road, Route de Pommard. Tel:+33(0)380214859

10. Le Jardin des Remparts
Chef Christophe Boquillon has been in charge here since January 2013, and this restaurant is worth a fresh visit – don’t miss the Charollais beef tartare. There are locally sourced ingredients, with wines from little-known growers, as well as top names.

11. Beaune market
Not to be missed, on Saturday mornings – and there is a small one on Wednesdays. It is partly held outside the Hôtel-Dieu and partly undercover in the adjoining Les Halles, the great hall where the Hospices auction is held every November. Fantastic piles of vegetables, fruit and butter are impossible to resist.

Written by Anthony Hanson MW

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