Top Australian wines made from Italian grape varieties
From Riverland Fiano to McLaren Vale Aglianico, growing numbers of Australian winemakers are experimenting with Italian grape varieties and our expert team has picked out 15 favourites - mostly from the recent Australia Day tastings in London.
Those in-the-know will be aware of Australian winemakers’ experiments with Italian grape varieties over the last several years.
More recently, growing numbers of wines are becoming available – some only at the ‘cellar door’, but others are finding their way overseas – as shown by the tasting lists at the Australia Day tasting organised by Wine Australia in London in January.
Some of the trials started with climate change in mind, but several winemakers have also long held the view that certain Australian climates – Riverland, for example – were already a good natural fit for the sun-loving varieties of southern Italy, in particular.
Some winemakers also have ancestral links to Italian regions.
Below, you’ll see examples of how McLaren Vale and Riverland have been explored as a base for varieties from the south of Italy’s ‘boot’, such as Fiano, Aglianico and Nero d’Avola.
Adelaide Hills and Clare and King valleys have emerged as front-runners for varieties found in central and northern Italy, such as Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Nebbiolo, although it is still early days and so difficult to generalise.
Below, Decanter’s tasting team pick out 15 Italian-inspired highlights that are worth tracking down in 2018. Due to the small quantities, availability may be patchy, so if you come across any of these, snap them up.
Copy and editing by Chris Mercer and Jim Button. Tasting notes below by Tina Gellie, Amy Wislocki and Jim Button.
Top Australian wines from Italian varieties
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Unico Zelo, Jade & Jasper Fiano, Riverland, South Australia, Australia, 2017
93
Brendan and Laura Carter's cellar door is at their Gumeracha distillery in the Adelaide Hills, but the fruit for this superb Fiano comes from ancient, sandy limestone soils on the lauded Ricca Terra Farm in the Riverland, a specialist in alternative varieties. With 24 hours' skin contact it's beautifully creamy, nutty and full of tropical and stone fruit characters on a waxy, textural palate that shows great freshness and length. First class.
2017
Unico ZeloRiverland
Pizzini, Nebbiolo, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2013
This is Pizzini's core Nebbiolo, released after spending a total of 48 months in oak barrel, tank and bottle before release. This is a take...
2013
PizziniKing Valley
Unico Zelo, The River, Riverland, South Australia, Australia, 2017
92
Nero d'Avola hails from hot, arid Sicily, and finds the same climes in South Australia's Riverland - not usually championed as a region for high-quality wines. But this is a cracker, with very approachable, sappy fruit, seeing five days on its skins and no oak to maximise its savoury berry vibrancy. Succulent, lifted and with fresh acidity, this is a real quaffer. Nice packaging too.
2017
Unico ZeloRiverland
Koerner, Pigato Vermentino, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2017
92
Pigato is actually the Ligurian name for Vermentino, so you certainly know what you're getting here. This is the second iteration of this wine, sourced from 10 year old vines in the estate Gullyview vineyard, planted on terra rossa soil. The grapes are picked early, open-top fermented then left on lees in tank for four months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's unique, savoury and characterful, boasting delicate orchard fruit, zingy citrus acidity and a weighty palate. Vibrant and long.
2017
KoernerClare Valley
Chalmers, Aglianico, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia, 2011
92
The Chalmers family have the widest collection of Italian grape varieties in Australia at their Heathcote nursery and Mildura vineyard. While all are worth seeking out, this Aglianico has just hit maturity, offering beautiful drinking over the next few years. Lifted herbal and dark spice aromas lead into a silky, savoury palate of rich, leathery red berry fruit with supple, round tannins and bright, balancing acidity.
2011
ChalmersHeathcote
Koerner, Nielluccio Sangiovese, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2016
92
Clare Valley brothers Damon and Jonathan Koerner have a hands off approach in the winery, aiming for terroir and fruit-driven wines. Nielluccio is the Corsican name for Sangiovese, and this is the first vintage of this wine, with just 840 bottles made. A portion of whole-bunch fruit was used, and the juice spent 10 months in concrete eggs before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's juicy, sappy and textural, with red cherry fruit and lovely weight, showing hints of spice and real floral lift. Pure, refreshing and delicious.
2016
KoernerClare Valley
Aphelion, Sagrantino, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2015
92
Rob Mack and Louise Rhodes buy in grapes from top McLaren Vale growers for their artisanal wines, and this approachable beast comes from two rows of Joe Lopresti's vineyards near the sea. The fruit spends 12 months in one and two year old French oak hogsheads, and just 800 unfined and unfiltered bottles were made. Sagrantino is an Umbrian variety that is notoriously tannic, but this is surprisingly balanced and gentle, although still showing characteristic savouriness, chewy tannins, mineral dark berry fruit, powerful spice and brisk acidity. Rustic, tangy and impressive.
2015
AphelionMcLaren Vale
Alpha Box & Dice, Zaptung Glera, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia
91
This free-spirited operation buys in grapes from across South Australia from mainly Mediterranean varieties, with the ultimate aim of making an 'alphabet of 26 different wines'. Z, for Zaptung, is a great introduction to the range, made from the Prosecco grape Glera and bottled under a crown cap. It is bone dry (5g/l residual sugar) and crisp, long and moreish, with light floral and nutty tones. A perfect aperitif.
Alpha Box & DiceMcLaren Vale
First Drop, Minchia Montepulciano, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2012
91
If you're a linguist, you might wonder about this wine's crude name, but it is meant to express its southern Italian flamboyance and 'Shirazamatazz flavour'. Matt Gant isn't known for delicate wines and this is an unashamed blockbuster, albeit very well made. It has massive inky fruit, searing acidity and firm, drying tannins, all deftly balanced on the round, velvety palate. This is still young, so enjoy with food if you're drinking it now.
2012
First DropAdelaide Hills
Dal Zotto, Pucino Col Fondo, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2014
91
The traditional (yet rarely seen) col fondo style of Prosecco is when the wine undergoes its fermentation in bottle. Unlike traditional-method sparklings the lees aren't disgorged, so the wine remains cloudy with sediment. Additionally, there is no dosage and a lighter fizz – quite opposite to the majority of harshly bubbly, sweetly commercial Proseccos. This has lipsmackingly tart green apple notes and citrus zing on a firm, refreshing, textured palate. Long and stylish, from the family that planted Australia's first Glera vines.
2014
Dal ZottoKing Valley
Alpha Box & Dice, Dead Winemaker's Society Dolcetto, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2015
91
Another exciting wine from the Fairweather brothers, Dylan and Justin, and their winemaker Sam Berketa, who are about 80% towards their aim of having a wine for each letter of the alphabet. D is for Dolcetto, and is dedicated to Piedmont legend Bartolo Mascarello and his traditional, hands-off approach to winemaking. Fruit is from 20 year old vines, matured in neutral oak so the fresh red cherry fruit shines through. Juicy, lightly spiced and dangerously quaffable.
2015
Alpha Box & DiceAdelaide Hills
Dal Zotto, Garganega, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2015
91
Garganega is the grape that makes Italy's famed Soave, from the Veneto region, which is where Otto and Elena dal Zotto emigrated in 1967. Their sons Michael and Christian now run the 30 year old family winemaking operation. For only its second vintage, this wine shows great complexity and character: an appealing, chalky mouthfeel and firm yet creamy structure from six months in new oak, with ripe, nutty orchard fruit. Focussed and tight.
2015
Dal ZottoKing Valley
Payten & Jones, Leuconoe Solera No.1, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia
90
This is the first vintage of a solera-style Sangiovese, made in tiny quantities by innovative producer Payten & Jones - just 250 cases were made. A blend of the 2014, '15 and '16 vintages, this is less about upfront fruit than the winery's regular Sangiovese, and more savoury in character. A dark ruby colour in the glass, you'll find a decent amount of tannin from the older vintages that are blended in, and fresh, red berry fruit behind. Fresh and food friendly, it's aromatic and earthy, an exciting expression of Australian Sangiovese.
Payten & JonesYarra Valley
Oliver's Taranga, Small Batch Fiano, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2016
90
The Oliver family own 100 hectares of vineyard, divided into over 50 separate blocks dedicated to various varieties. Sixth generation winemaker Corrina Wright practises a fairly natural, hands off style of winemaking, which works well with their small batch projects. The Fiano grapes for this wine, usually found in southern Italy and Sicily, were gently pressed in a basket press before undergoing a natural ferment and spending up to four months on lees. It is rich, round and textured, with waxy orange peel and citrus pith balanced by a fresh acidity. 500 cases produced.
2016
Oliver's TarangaMcLaren Vale
Journey Wines, Fiano, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia, 2017
88
Fiano has enormous promise in Australia, where it thrives in warmer, drier areas such as McLaren Vale - and in Heathcote, where this example comes from. The vineyard is owned by the Chalmers family, who own a vine nursery and are the biggest importer of Italian varieties into Australia. They initially planted one hectare of Fiano, but they have been so excited by the potential that they are expanding plantings by another 10ha. This is the first vintage of this wine, half of which is fermented in steel, the other half in old Chardonnay puncheons with wild yeasts and more solids. The result is a wine which shows steeliness alongside a weight of ripe apple and Nashi pear fruit.
2017
Journey WinesHeathcote
Unico Zelo, Jade & Jasper Fiano, Riverland, South Australia, Australia, 2017
93
Brendan and Laura Carter's cellar door is at their Gumeracha distillery in the Adelaide Hills, but the fruit for this superb Fiano comes from ancient, sandy limestone soils on the lauded Ricca Terra Farm in the Riverland, a specialist in alternative varieties. With 24 hours' skin contact it's beautifully creamy, nutty and full of tropical and stone fruit characters on a waxy, textural palate that shows great freshness and length. First class.
2017
Unico ZeloRiverland
Pizzini, Nebbiolo, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2013
This is Pizzini's core Nebbiolo, released after spending a total of 48 months in oak barrel, tank and bottle before release. This is a take...
2013
PizziniKing Valley
Unico Zelo, The River, Riverland, South Australia, Australia, 2017
92
Nero d'Avola hails from hot, arid Sicily, and finds the same climes in South Australia's Riverland - not usually championed as a region for high-quality wines. But this is a cracker, with very approachable, sappy fruit, seeing five days on its skins and no oak to maximise its savoury berry vibrancy. Succulent, lifted and with fresh acidity, this is a real quaffer. Nice packaging too.
2017
Unico ZeloRiverland
Koerner, Pigato Vermentino, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2017
92
Pigato is actually the Ligurian name for Vermentino, so you certainly know what you're getting here. This is the second iteration of this wine, sourced from 10 year old vines in the estate Gullyview vineyard, planted on terra rossa soil. The grapes are picked early, open-top fermented then left on lees in tank for four months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's unique, savoury and characterful, boasting delicate orchard fruit, zingy citrus acidity and a weighty palate. Vibrant and long.
2017
KoernerClare Valley
Chalmers, Aglianico, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia, 2011
92
The Chalmers family have the widest collection of Italian grape varieties in Australia at their Heathcote nursery and Mildura vineyard. While all are worth seeking out, this Aglianico has just hit maturity, offering beautiful drinking over the next few years. Lifted herbal and dark spice aromas lead into a silky, savoury palate of rich, leathery red berry fruit with supple, round tannins and bright, balancing acidity.
2011
ChalmersHeathcote
Koerner, Nielluccio Sangiovese, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2016
92
Clare Valley brothers Damon and Jonathan Koerner have a hands off approach in the winery, aiming for terroir and fruit-driven wines. Nielluccio is the Corsican name for Sangiovese, and this is the first vintage of this wine, with just 840 bottles made. A portion of whole-bunch fruit was used, and the juice spent 10 months in concrete eggs before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's juicy, sappy and textural, with red cherry fruit and lovely weight, showing hints of spice and real floral lift. Pure, refreshing and delicious.
2016
KoernerClare Valley
Aphelion, Sagrantino, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2015
92
Rob Mack and Louise Rhodes buy in grapes from top McLaren Vale growers for their artisanal wines, and this approachable beast comes from two rows of Joe Lopresti's vineyards near the sea. The fruit spends 12 months in one and two year old French oak hogsheads, and just 800 unfined and unfiltered bottles were made. Sagrantino is an Umbrian variety that is notoriously tannic, but this is surprisingly balanced and gentle, although still showing characteristic savouriness, chewy tannins, mineral dark berry fruit, powerful spice and brisk acidity. Rustic, tangy and impressive.
2015
AphelionMcLaren Vale
Alpha Box & Dice, Zaptung Glera, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia
91
This free-spirited operation buys in grapes from across South Australia from mainly Mediterranean varieties, with the ultimate aim of making an 'alphabet of 26 different wines'. Z, for Zaptung, is a great introduction to the range, made from the Prosecco grape Glera and bottled under a crown cap. It is bone dry (5g/l residual sugar) and crisp, long and moreish, with light floral and nutty tones. A perfect aperitif.
Alpha Box & DiceMcLaren Vale
First Drop, Minchia Montepulciano, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2012
91
If you're a linguist, you might wonder about this wine's crude name, but it is meant to express its southern Italian flamboyance and 'Shirazamatazz flavour'. Matt Gant isn't known for delicate wines and this is an unashamed blockbuster, albeit very well made. It has massive inky fruit, searing acidity and firm, drying tannins, all deftly balanced on the round, velvety palate. This is still young, so enjoy with food if you're drinking it now.
2012
First DropAdelaide Hills
Dal Zotto, Pucino Col Fondo, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2014
91
The traditional (yet rarely seen) col fondo style of Prosecco is when the wine undergoes its fermentation in bottle. Unlike traditional-method sparklings the lees aren't disgorged, so the wine remains cloudy with sediment. Additionally, there is no dosage and a lighter fizz – quite opposite to the majority of harshly bubbly, sweetly commercial Proseccos. This has lipsmackingly tart green apple notes and citrus zing on a firm, refreshing, textured palate. Long and stylish, from the family that planted Australia's first Glera vines.
2014
Dal ZottoKing Valley
Alpha Box & Dice, Dead Winemaker's Society Dolcetto, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2015
91
Another exciting wine from the Fairweather brothers, Dylan and Justin, and their winemaker Sam Berketa, who are about 80% towards their aim of having a wine for each letter of the alphabet. D is for Dolcetto, and is dedicated to Piedmont legend Bartolo Mascarello and his traditional, hands-off approach to winemaking. Fruit is from 20 year old vines, matured in neutral oak so the fresh red cherry fruit shines through. Juicy, lightly spiced and dangerously quaffable.
2015
Alpha Box & DiceAdelaide Hills
Dal Zotto, Garganega, King Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2015
91
Garganega is the grape that makes Italy's famed Soave, from the Veneto region, which is where Otto and Elena dal Zotto emigrated in 1967. Their sons Michael and Christian now run the 30 year old family winemaking operation. For only its second vintage, this wine shows great complexity and character: an appealing, chalky mouthfeel and firm yet creamy structure from six months in new oak, with ripe, nutty orchard fruit. Focussed and tight.
2015
Dal ZottoKing Valley
Payten & Jones, Leuconoe Solera No.1, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia
90
This is the first vintage of a solera-style Sangiovese, made in tiny quantities by innovative producer Payten & Jones - just 250 cases were made. A blend of the 2014, '15 and '16 vintages, this is less about upfront fruit than the winery's regular Sangiovese, and more savoury in character. A dark ruby colour in the glass, you'll find a decent amount of tannin from the older vintages that are blended in, and fresh, red berry fruit behind. Fresh and food friendly, it's aromatic and earthy, an exciting expression of Australian Sangiovese.
Payten & JonesYarra Valley
Oliver's Taranga, Small Batch Fiano, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2016
90
The Oliver family own 100 hectares of vineyard, divided into over 50 separate blocks dedicated to various varieties. Sixth generation winemaker Corrina Wright practises a fairly natural, hands off style of winemaking, which works well with their small batch projects. The Fiano grapes for this wine, usually found in southern Italy and Sicily, were gently pressed in a basket press before undergoing a natural ferment and spending up to four months on lees. It is rich, round and textured, with waxy orange peel and citrus pith balanced by a fresh acidity. 500 cases produced.
2016
Oliver's TarangaMcLaren Vale
Journey Wines, Fiano, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia, 2017
88
Fiano has enormous promise in Australia, where it thrives in warmer, drier areas such as McLaren Vale - and in Heathcote, where this example comes from. The vineyard is owned by the Chalmers family, who own a vine nursery and are the biggest importer of Italian varieties into Australia. They initially planted one hectare of Fiano, but they have been so excited by the potential that they are expanding plantings by another 10ha. This is the first vintage of this wine, half of which is fermented in steel, the other half in old Chardonnay puncheons with wild yeasts and more solids. The result is a wine which shows steeliness alongside a weight of ripe apple and Nashi pear fruit.
2017
Journey WinesHeathcote
