Best Premium Chablis

Les Clos produces the richest of Chablis’ grands crus. From 50- to 60-year-old vines; 60% in stainless steel, 40% in used barrels. Great precision and structure for a great future; an exceptional wine in 2017.

Fermented and aged in old barrels according to the classic Raveneau style, this is a bright, savoury, sea-salty Chablis showing undertones of fennel and citrus peel, and notable palate length.

This exceptional grand cru probably derives its longevity from the abundant clay, as well as limestone, in the soil. It's south-facing and well drained, giving ripeness and power, and that power is already evident on the nose, with its lifted but rich apple and apricot aromas with a touch of smoke. There's real heft on the attack, while the palate is compact, powerful and dense. It exhibits tension and force, with almost chewy extract as well as a lot of spice. It's still very youthful and will go the distance. Very long, with a dry finish.

The low yields in this vineyard of 25hl/ha have produced grapes with honeyed richness, but early picking retained their acidity, making this a spicy, well-balanced wine with real poise.

Didier Defaix's old-vine Chablis is often one of the best in the region. Made with 25% oak, it has come-hither flavours of pear and citrus with a creamy mid-palate texture and supporting acidity.

When made by top producers in good years, Chablis has amazing ageing potential and can easily be kept for a decade. This offering may be six years old already but it still has a long way to go. The nose opens up to citrus fruit with menthol notes and a steely minerality. Plenty of depth, tension and precision with purity of fruit and a lingering finish. This will make a great foil for fish in sauce or poultry.

Beautiful concentration, richness and ripeness. Russet apples and creamy, textured cashew notes linger on the long mineral finish. Defaix’s premier cru 2003s, Les Lys and Côte de Lechet, are exceptional value at £40 as well.