Torbreck’s heritage vines
Julie Sheppard
I recently met with winemaker Ian Hongell of Torbreck, who was in town for the 2025 release of the Barossa producer’s top wines, including The Steading, The Struie and Descendant. Noting that he’s just finished his 40th vintage, he quipped: ‘I’m starting to get the hang of it now…’ Alongside the latest releases, we tasted a vertical of RunRig, a stunning Shiraz made exclusively from heritage clones. Barossa is home to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world, with plantings dating back to 1843.
‘We’ve been trying to resurrect old vineyards that were derelict,’ explains Hongell. ‘These grapes have a resilience that modern clones don’t have,’ he adds. Grapes are sourced from six sites in Lyndoch, Rowland Flat, Moppa, Ebenezer, Light Pass and Greenock. ‘I’m trying to create something full-bodied, powerful and textural, but still light on its feet,’ he says of RunRig, which draws comparisons with the northern Rhône’s Côte-Rôtie.
The latest release, 2022, comes from a cool, La Niña year, which lends a beautiful perfume and floral lift to the wine. But the older vintages stole the show; notably 2018, with its earthy, garrigue edge to the still-youthful, silky black fruit (95pts, £180- £190 Corking Wines, Crump Richmond Shaw, London End Wines). And 2017, with its elegantly brooding palate (96pts, £178-£200 Crump Richmond Shaw, IG Wines, London End Wines).
Bodegas Habla – Speaking plainly
Ines Salpico
I was first introduced to the wines of Bodegas Habla about 10 years ago by friends from the design industry rather than the wine clique. Drawn to Habla by its striking branding and visual identity, they had become vocal fans and repeat buyers. I remained sceptical, wondering if they were judging the book by its cover. They were not (or not only). Since that first introduction, I’ve tasted (and drunk) the wines multiple times – not least six weeks ago, when the Habla team was in town for a mini London tour.
Habla (‘speak’ in Spanish) is a daring project of great focus and determination, producing wines that are stripped of artifice, refined yet unpretentious – and counterintuitively drinkable. You would think that an estate in the heart of Extremadura, of scorching fame, would produce clumsy powerhouses. Habla’s wines are anything but. Try Habla del Silencio (‘Speak of Silence’; 2020, £15.50 Origin Spain) a smart, fresh blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, or Habla de Ti (‘Speak of Yourself’; 2020, £15.50 Origin Spain), a textural, distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, for a perfect introduction to the modern, expressive takes on international varieties from a project that’s sleek both inside and out.
Tasting Trailside
Geordie Torr
Jeremy Seysses (left) with Carlton McCoy
It may seem a particularly odd pairing – the seemingly polar opposite worlds of Napa Cabernet and Burgundy Pinot Noir – but in early April, those worlds collided in a remarkable way, at an intimate Berry Bros & Rudd masterclass to celebrate the inaugural release from Trailside Vineyard, a collaboration between Carlton McCoy MS, CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, and Jeremy Seysses of Burgundy’s legendary Domaine Dujac, both of whom were on hand to introduce the project.
After tasting our way through a sublime collection of Dujac wines (all from magnum) to get us in the mood – Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 2008, Clos St-Denis Grand Cru 2008, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2009 and 2010 Echezeaux Grand Cru 2010 – we were poured the wine itself, the Trailside, Trailside Vineyard 2022 (£144 ib Berry Bros & Rudd). The power of auto-suggestion mustn’t be discounted, but it was difficult not to come away with the impression that this was the most Pinot-like Cabernet you’re ever likely to taste. Exotically fragrant, it offers fresh, lifted aromas of blueberry, raspberry, blackberry and plum fruit. There’s a real delicacy to the palate, with abundant but very well-managed tannins and pure, succulent red fruits. And all at a very un-Napa-like 13.1% alcohol.
Atelier Guibert: Mas de Daumas Gassac’s new creative playground
Natalie Earl
Mas de Daumas Gassac is one of Languedoc’s great success stories, its founders Véronique and Aimé Guibert de la Vaissière elevating the region like few others have. Since Aimé’s passing in 2016, their five sons have led the domaine. Now, a new chapter begins with the quiet launch of Atelier Guibert.
When I asked brothers Basile and Samuel what it is, ideas, explanations and anecdotes tumbled out. In short, the new estate is a workshop – a space for the brothers to explore, experiment and create. Not a single wine, or even a set range, but a winemaking lab they have imagined for more than a decade. The project has emerged from a common quandary: how to honour tradition while staying relevant and carving a path for the next generation.
‘We can play a bit more, be crazy a bit more,’ says Basile. Atelier Guibert has its own new winery and a 14ha vineyard between Gignac and Aniane. Unlike Daumas Gassac’s rebellious Bordeaux-leaning blends, this project focuses on southern French varieties: Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre. The wines will be accessible in price and profile. Génésis – a bright, crunchy, juicy red – is one of the first. In the brothers’ safe hands, channelling the nonconformist spirit of their parents, Atelier Guibert holds much promise for the future.
Staglin Family stories
Tina Gellie
Reflecting on a 40th anniversary tasting with Shari and Garen Staglin of Napa’s Staglin Family Vineyard, the fondest memory wasn’t the (albeit excellent) flight of Estate Cabernets back to 1995, but the tales told, firsthand, by this pioneering couple. They met on a blind date at UCLA 61 years ago and in 1966, two years before marrying, visited a nascent Napa. There were only six wineries then, recalls Garen, but the pair agreed they’d one day be part of the valley’s story.
Fast-forward through student loans, the Vietnam War and busy careers, and in 1985, they bought an historic 25ha estate, first planted with vines in 1865. Lauded vineyard manager David Abreu has farmed the property organically since the purchase and Fredrik Johansson has made the past 18 vintages, both ensuring consistency.
Meanwhile, daughter Shannon oversees operations and son Brandon heads the family’s non-profit, One Mind, which has raised more than US$600m for mental health research through an annual music festival at the winery as well 100% of proceeds from the entry-level Salus label. The elegantly tropical 2023 Chardonnay and lavishly fruited 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon will retail for under £100 via UK agent Pol Roger.
