Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley: excellence in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Distinctions between Old and New World styles have long been obsolete. This should certainly be said of the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs produced the world over, with cool(er) climate regions on both hemispheres delivering both powerful and filigreed examples, attuned to specific mesoclimates, soil profiles and winemaking approaches.
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Among the New World regions that over the years have emerged as leading producers of world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are Australia’s Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley to try
Two leading Australian cool climate regions
Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley are located in South Eastern Australia, close to Melbourne: The former about 70 km to the south; the latter 45 km northeast of the city.
Mornington Peninsula is surrounded by three bodies of water: Port Phillip Bay on the west side, Western Port Bay on the east, and Bass Strait at the bottom. This makes it one of Australia’s genuinely maritime regions with crisp, cooling breezes blowing all year round – this in turn means the growing season is long and balanced and that disease pressure is relatively low. Its topography, with ridges and rolling hills, is a result of volcanic activity 60 million years ago, followed by uplift through faulting in the last 15 million years.
The vast and diverse Yarra Valley is divided into the Lower Yarra and Upper Yarra, with distinct altitudes, soils, rainfall and climates. The Great Dividing Range borders it to the north and the Dandenong Ranges to the south with the Yarra River running through it. The river is also a dividing line between the region’s two main soil profiles (see box below), which, together with elevation and aspect, are a source of much diversity within the region.
The regions at a glance
Morning Peninsula
Climate: Maritime
Altitude: 10 – 260m
Latitude: 38° 35’S
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Growing Season rainfall (April – October): 371 mm
Mean January temperature (mean temperature in the warmest month): 19.3°C
Soils: Very diverse. From yellow and brown soils over friable, well-drained clay to volcanic red clay and deep, fertile sandy soils in the northern area.
Leading varieties: Pinot Noir (48% of total area under vine); Chardonnay (31%); Pinot Gris (14%); Shiraz (3%); Sauvignon Blanc (2%).
Yarra Valley
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influences
Altitude: 30 – 400m
Latitude: 37° 73’S
Growing Season rainfall (April – October): 559mm
Mean January temperature (mean temperature in the warmest month): 18.9°C
Soils: Two main, extremely different, soil types dominate and are source of important differences in growing conditions and wine profile: the Northern side of the valley features soils of grey to grey-brown clay on the surface, with red-brown clay subsoils often filled with rock; the Southern side features much younger, immensely deep, fertile red volcanic soil.
Leading varieties: Pinot Noir (36% of total area under vine); Chardonnay (33%); Shiraz (8%); Cabernet Sauvignon (6%); Pinot Gris (5%).
Albeit cool climate regions, Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley are at relatively low latitudes, namely if compared to classical Old World Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producers such as France or Germany. This means that light during the growing season is abundant and intense, requiring careful canopy management and often causing grapes to develop thicker skins. This in turn has a direct impact on the profile of the wines produced, which can display more colour and tannins, even the flavour profile is unmistakably cool climate.
Building classics through innovation
So what has driven the quality and character of the wines, namely Chardonnays and Pinot Noir, from Morning Peninsula and Yarra Valley? A unique combination of particular terroirs and of dynamic communities of winemakers that, building upon very good technical knowledge, are not shy of experimentation and innovation.
A granular understanding of geology, extensive research on clonal selection and state of the art winemaking facilities might have, throughout the 20th century laid the foundation for quality winemaking, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the leading varieties. But the 21st has seen a greater interest in sustainable viticulture and low intervention winemaking, which has further increased the regions’ quality and expressiveness. Maverick winemakers such Timo Mayer, Mac Forbes, Steve Flamsteed (Giant Steps), Steve Webber (De Bortoli), in Yarra Valley and Martin Spedding (Ten Minutes by Tractor), Ben Haines, Tom Carson (Distant Noises, Yabby Lake) in Mornington Peninsula, tore the rule book and, with a relentless focus on the specificity of their vineyards, are making wines that can now claim cult status.
The fact that Phil Sexton, a jazz lover and founder of Giant Steps, decided to name his winery after the iconic album by John Coltrane evokes a suitable analogy. Very much like jazz musicians, the winemaking communities of Morning Peninsula and Yarra Valley work with the outstanding repertoire of terroirs nature has given them and with their own masterful skills, to create singular, creative yet classical wines.
Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley – 20 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs to try:
Wines grouped by style and ordered by score, in descending order.
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Stonier, Reserve Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2018

0
Good use of oak, giving structure to a wine otherwise defined by the interesting array of fruit flavours. Melon, pineapple, tangerine and lemon zest are weaved through vanilla, toasted almonds and white pepper. Great length with lingering spicy touches.
2018
VictoriaAustralia
StonierMornington Peninsula
Distant Noises, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019

0
The personal project of Tom Carson, winemaker at Yabby Lake, Distant Noise is a range that showcases all his talent at an incredibly accessible price point. Punching well above its weight, this wine delivers complexity and enjoyment at an incredible value. The elegant smokiness and sculptured precision create a framework for the preserved lemon, clementine and green apple flavours. Simply delicious.
2019
VictoriaAustralia
Distant NoisesYarra Valley
Polperro, Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2020

0
A wine defined by its texture and the balance between mid-palate roundness and mineral precision. The generosity of the yellow apple, peach and lemon curd is complemented by luscious brioche and honeyed almonds. Delicious finish with hints of spice and flint.
2020
VictoriaAustralia
PolperroMornington Peninsula
Yabby Lake, Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2021

0
A perfect showcase of Tom Carson's talent, this Chardonnay has a beautiful structure built upon fruit concentration, mineral precision and deft use of oak. Intense apple, pear and lemon are given smokey and pine nut nuances. Will age beautifully if you can resist drinking it now.
2021
VictoriaAustralia
Yabby LakeMornington Peninsula
Giant Steps, Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2020

0
Measured use of oak helps to highlight the intrinsic potential for complexity of the Sexton Vineyard. 2020 was a vintage with particularly low yields with small bunches of intense yet fresh fruit. Giant Steps made the best of it, seen here in a wine with lemon, apple and melon, underpinned by a strong mineral backbone, firm acidity and honeyed richness. Good ageing potential.
2020
VictoriaAustralia
Giant StepsYarra Valley
Mac Forbes, Woori Yallock Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019

0
Enticingly saline, this crisp, mouthwatering Chardonnay is a pure pleasure to drink and also a great companion to food. Fleshy citrus and crunchy orchard fruit with flinty and salty speckles for a crisp pour than unfolds in the glass revealing a savoury herbal edge on the finish.
2019
VictoriaAustralia
Mac ForbesYarra Valley
Ben Haines, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021

0
Simply delicious, this Chardonnay has juiciness and textural grip in equal measures. Dangerously quaffable with its vibrant white peach, lemon zest, yellow apple and melon, laced by vibrant acidity and nutty crunchiness. A perfect example of Ben Haine's low intervention yet precise winemaking.
2021
VictoriaAustralia
Ben HainesYarra Valley
Yering Station, Village Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021

0
For less than £20, Yering Station's estate blend Chardonnay delivers incredible complexity, mineral precision and textural appeal. Melon, lemon zest and pink grapefruit give fleshy zestiness while touches of woodspice, fresh almonds and toast add nuance and body.
2021
VictoriaAustralia
Yering StationYarra Valley
Ocean Eight, Verve Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2016

South of Melbourne along the east coast of Port Phillip Bay, Mornington Peninsula has not basked in the Chardonnay (or Pinot Noir) limelight in the...
2016
VictoriaAustralia
Ocean EightMornington Peninsula
Polperro, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2019

0
Rich red fruit so well-defined and full of fleshy drive. The acidity is pleasantly assertive, supporting the opulence of red cherry and wild strawberry, and carving the path for a long finish. There are delicious nuances of white and pink pepper, as well as a lively touch of pink grapefruit.
2019
VictoriaAustralia
PolperroMornington Peninsula
Mac Forbes, Coldstream Villages, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2020

0
Mac Forbes in full form here. A wine crafted with transparency and precision, light on its feet yet nuanced and elegant. Red cherry, red apple and plum, presented with juicy clarity and supported by fine-grained tannins. Great energy and focus for a wine that is as interesting as it is quaffable.
2020
VictoriaAustralia
Mac ForbesYarra Valley
Ben Haines, Make A Wilderness, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019

0
Energetic, complex, delicious - words that can describe this Make A Wilderness Pinot Noir as well as Ben Haine's style more generally. Here we find juicy plum, zesty blood orange and dried mountain herbs underpinned by lively acidity and textural grip. So fresh and long.
2019
VictoriaAustralia
Ben HainesYarra Valley
Yering Station, Village Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2019

0
Generous concentration of fruit is balanced by firm, fine-grained tannins and the savouriness of herbs and spices. Juicy ripe strawberries, red cherries and poached plums are sprinkled with black pepper and oregano. Long finish with well defined lingering flavours of cherry and pepper.
2019
VictoriaAustralia
Yering StationYarra Valley
Giant Steps, Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2020

A show of complementary elements in perfect balance: crisp red cherry and cranberry fruit for crunchiness; orange zest for a fresh lift; cocoa nibs for...
2020
VictoriaAustralia
Giant StepsYarra Valley
Yabby Lake, Red Claw Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2020

Yabby Lake's well-priced second label might be for approachable drinking, but it is still a serious, focused wine. It's quite high toned, with soused cherries...
2020
VictoriaAustralia
Yabby LakeMornington Peninsula
Stonier, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2020

0
Appealing ripe red fruit - strawberries, cranberries, plum - supported by notes of spice and smoke. Show's good drive and poise all the way through to the lively, long finish. The acid imparts freshness but could be better integrated with the generous fruit. Nevertheless, delicious and elegant.
2020
VictoriaAustralia
StonierMornington Peninsula
Paringa Estate, Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2018

0
Lovely elegance with dark fruit hovering over a herbal bouquet of dried oregano and tarragon. Gentle smokiness gives intrigue and poise. Fine tannins and a subtle driving acid, supporting the medium-long finish.
2018
VictoriaAustralia
Paringa EstateMornington Peninsula
Ocean Eight, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia, 2018

From Mike Aylward, this is a a beautiful wine that balances power and poise, with its focused beam of tangy acidity which illuminates blackforest gateau-like...
2018
VictoriaAustralia
Ocean EightMornington Peninsula

Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.