Chardonnay in South America
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Chile, particularly its coastal Limarí vineyards, was the undoubted star while our two experts suggested Argentina should focus on Malbec. See the top 10 wines from our panel tasting.

‘I knew we’d find a few unpleasant wines and lots of textbook examples, but things got more exciting with a number of expressive, well-made Chardonnays,’ said Brazilian-born Master of Wine Dirceu Vianna Jr. ‘Our 10 top wines had a different dimension, with real character, minerality, freshness and savoury notes.’

Chardonnay in South America

Patricio Tapia felt the soil type had a lot to answer for: ‘The most interesting flight was from Limarí, which is closer to Chile’s Pacific coast and has chalky soil. By comparison, the Casablanca Chardonnays, planted on more clay soils, were a bit bland and boring.’ Vianna Jr was also impressed with Itata Valley, as well as Loconomilla in Chile: ‘These wines showed great purity in almost a Chablis style, with very hands-off winemaking.’ But unlike Tapia, he struggled to identify the terroir: ‘In Burgundy you can taste the nuances but winemakers there have been working with Chardonnay for centuries,’ he said. ‘Some of the wines here have potential, but if you put them in context with the top Chardonnays of Australia, California or New Zealand, they are not at that level yet. It’s a work in progress.’

‘The evolution of Chardonnay in Argentina and Chile is very different,’ explained Tapia. ‘The first Chardonnay vines were planted in Argentina in 1996 (in Guatallary), compared to 1982 in Casablanca, Chile; and whereas the Chileans started producing a lighter, fresher style 10 years ago, in Argentina it was only about two years ago. Argentinians still associate the grape with big and bold.’

Tapia raised an interesting point: ‘Climatically, you cannot make the best Malbec in the world and also the best Chardonnay from the same vineyards – it’s impossible. Perhaps it’s better to be the master at one thing.’

More than 85% of the wines were Recommended and offered ‘good value’ to consumers. Tapia said from such a large group of wines they offered different styles for different palates: ‘From Chile, if you want a California style, go for Casablanca or Maipo. If you want an Australian or New Zealand style, Itata, Limari or Elqui will be more appropriate. In Argentina, Tupungato and Gualtallary are the two places to focus on, otherwise I’m afraid the rest of Argentina is just ABC: Another Boring Chardonnay!’

Maycas del Limarí, Quebrada Seca, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2013

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Winemaker Marcelo Papa is one of the pioneers to have exploited the potential of Limarí, a coastal region some 300km north of Santiago. Today, as the head of Maycas (part of the Concha y Toro group), he has used all his knowledge of the area to create this Chardonnay from the calcareous soils of the Quebrada Seca vineyard. It is bright in acidity, rich in herbal, citrus and mineral notes and imposing, concentrated fruit flavours. This is one of the finest examples of the potential of Limarí’s coastal vineyards and their symbiotic relationship with Chardonnay. Patricio Tapia A complex, unique Chardonnay. Mineral notes hang together with fresh fruit and herbal tones. It is imposing on the palate, with bright acidity and tense tannins. Dirceu Vianna Jr MW Forward and expressive with buckets of tropical fruit, refined mineral overtones and attractive sweet spices from well-judged oak. Enticingly complex with unusual notes of smoky meat, tarragon and attractive and spicy characters.

2013

Limarí ValleyChile

Maycas del Limarí

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Pandolfi Price, Los Patricios Chardonnay, Itata Valley, Chile, 2012

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<p>Densely concentrated, serious Chardonnay from Chile&rsquo;s south. Barrel-fermented, with 22 months in French oak barriques. Creamy texture with layers of complexity. A good alternative to premium Burgundy, with a sensible price-tag.<br /> <strong>Star buy of 2015 </strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Pronounced nose of nuts, herbs and ripe fruits. Complex and savoury palate with brisk acidity and a slight oiliness. Very engaging style, with complexity from the oak and real body from the fruit. Needs a bit more time to really shine. The Itata Valley, about 400km south of Santiago, is quicky being recognised as one of Chile&rsquo;s leading winemaking areas. And while most of the wines coming from Itata are made from old-vine Cinsault, Pa&iacute;s or Muscatel, other varieties from younger vines also shine. Those that produce this Chardonnay grow on volcanic soils on the banks of Larqui River, giving a wine that is voluptuous, yet imposing and surrounded by gentle softness and maturity. Pandolfi Price is a producer to watch and this lovely wine will age with grace.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Patricio Tapia </strong><br /> Rich in texture, sweet in flavours and warm in alcohol. A Chardonnay that&rsquo;s made to go with smoked salmon.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Dirceu Vianna Jr MW </strong><br /> Enticingly complex with oxidative and nutty aromas, as well as notes of citrus fruits, bruised apples and earthy and flinty notes. On the palate it&rsquo;s dry with racy acidity, lovely fruit and a beautiful savoury finish. Complex with well-judged oak. Not an easy wine to understand but for those who do it is exceptional.</p>

2012

Itata ValleyChile

Pandolfi Price

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Viña Ventisquero, Tara 1, Atacama, Chile, 2013

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<p>When the winemaking team at Ventisquero (led by Felipe Tosso) decided to go to the Atacama Desert, it was to seek out a new terroir and create a new style of wine. The area they chose was Huasco, a region of white, chalky soils heavily influenced by the cool breezes of the Pacific Ocean. Made in small quantities (only 2,100 bottles of this vintage) and using minimal intervention, it has a cloudy appearance from being unfiltered, but the aromas burst forth with ripe, white fruits and intense minerality. The palate has an oily texture which envelops the mouth, along with refreshing, inviting spiky acidity.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Patricio Tapia </strong></em><br /> Cloudy in appearance, but very precise in aromas and flavours. This is fruity, intense, vivid and unique.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Dirceu Vianna Jr MW </strong></em><br /> A touch cloudy. The aromas are clean and bright with notes of baked apples, grapefruit and fresh pineapple. The palate is dry and rich with a creamy texture, lively acidity and a persistent finish. A great example of a wine made using a hands-off approach.</p>

2013

AtacamaChile

Viña Ventisquero

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Viu Manent, Gran Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2013

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<p>For its red wines, Viu Manent obtains its fruit from the central area of the Colchagua Valley, where the high temperatures give early maturity and a gentle softness to their wines. For their whites, however, they prefer to buy grapes from closer to the coast, where cold sea breezes enable higher acidity and freshness. This Chardonnay is from Casablanca, 100km north of Colchagua on the coast of the Central Valley, and the marine influence is felt in the wine&rsquo;s bright acidity, surrounded by ripe white fruit flavours. It&rsquo;s a voluptuous, round and unctously ripe Chardonnay that still shows an elegant side.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Patricio Tapia </strong></em><br /> This is round and sexy, with luminous acidity to balance beautifully with the with super-ripe fruit.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Dirceu Vianna Jr MW </strong></em><br /> Classy and seductive with profound mineral and flinty edges combining with notes of vibrant and citrus fruits as well as fresh dough. Pleasant texture and savoury flavours, with a mouthwatering finish. Elegant and delicate Chardonnay.</p>

2013

Casablanca ValleyChile

Viu Manent

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Morand&eacute;, Gran Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2014

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Expansive, rich and uplifting with complex aromas of citrus fruits, pineapple, crunchy green apples, fresh dough and a flinty twist. Beautiful and refreshing, with a savoury finish.

2014

Casablanca ValleyChile

Morand&eacute;

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Undurraga, TH Chardonnay, Quebrada Seca, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2012

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Sleek and modern with attractive flinty and steely notes, fresh bread and citrus fruits. Dry, crisp and fresh palate with piercing acidity and vibrant minerality.

2012

Limarí ValleyChile

UndurragaQuebrada Seca

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Tabalí, Coastal Limestone Vineyard, Talinay, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2013

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A mineral Chardonnay with refreshing fruit, soft herbal notes, a hint of sweet spices and lovely minerality. Clean, fresh and restrained. Brave, hands-off winemaking giving nice purity.

2013

Limarí ValleyChile

Tabalí

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De Martino, Quebrada Seca, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2013

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Well defined and graceful with aromas of grapefruit, butterscotch and sweet spice. More of the same on the palate with the oak giving vanilla and coconut flavours. Rich and creamy finish.

2013

Limarí ValleyChile

De MartinoQuebrada Seca

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Pizzato, Fausto, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, 2013

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Graceful and inviting with notes of yellow plums, white peaches and ripe melons. Dry, balanced and harmonious, this is a well-made and pure Chardonnay with a racy, refreshing finish.

2013

Serra GaúchaBrazil

Pizzato

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Terranoble, Vineyard Selection, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2014

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Youthful and lively with notes of stone fruits, tropical notes and a hint of butterscotch – expansive, round and ripe. A fine example, displaying harmony and freshness.

2014

Casablanca ValleyChile

Terranoble

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Patricio Tapia
Decanter Magazine, South America Expert & DWWA Regional Chair

Patricio Tapia graduated with a degree in journalism from the Universidad de Chile in Santiago, before attending Bordeaux University in France, where he studied for a diploma in wine tasting and winemaking. He was the Regional Chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2019 and he stepped in as joint-Regional Chair for Spain during the DWWA 2018. He is the wine critic for Argentina, Chile and Spain in Wine & Spirits magazine, and has been a host on the El Gourmet TV channel in South America. He has written several books, including The Wines of Colchagua Valley, TodoVino, Wines for Great Occasions, and his annual Descorchados, a guide to the wines of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay.