Thanksgiving food and wine: Going local in California

Americans have been celebrating Thanksgiving for around four centuries, and for as long as anyone can remember, it has been a holiday centered around a turkey dinner, leaving little room for culinary experimentation. In recent years, however, that seems to have changed, with tradition giving way to local dishes on some tables.

Talking turkey

The US Department of Agriculture (USDA) reports that per capita turkey consumption has been slowly declining in recent years, with turkey production down 6.3% in 2024 compared to the previous year. So, if not turkey, what’s on the table come Thanksgiving? Duck, seafood, and other creative alternatives offer a fresh take on the traditional holiday feast.

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‘Turkey has its inherent flaws; it’s an easy bird to cook poorly, and many people just don’t enjoy it altogether. Plus, it’s a very large bird, so unless you’re hosting 12 people, you’ll be stuck eating turkey for weeks,’ says Gavin Schmidt, chef-partner at The Morris in San Francisco.

Duck, duck… duck

As an alternative to turkey, Schmidt makes a case for duck, noting that while it is smaller, it still ‘scratches the itch’ of having a roasted whole bird at the table. It’s ideally sized and well-suited for smaller groups. Of course, the pandemic played a role in pushing this trend forward. As we all know, families were forced into smaller, more intimate gatherings during lockdowns, and the demand for duck and other substitutes for turkey soared.

‘Pre-pandemic, we sold a very small amount,’ says Jennifer Reichardt, COO of Sonoma County Poultry, the farm that grows and supplies the locally famous Liberty Duck. ‘In 2020, we found that our customers were happy to get a whole duck instead of turkey as their Thanksgiving celebration was smaller than normal. It created a “new tradition”; even if their dinners have gotten bigger, they still come back for a whole duck, too.’

But both Schmidt and Reichardt agree, and clearly, for the customers who preorder those whole ducks weeks in advance, that duck is simply ‘a lot tastier’. At The Morris, the dish comes with a honey espresso seasoned duck gravy with the option to add roasted root vegetables to the meal.

Reichardt, author of The Whole Duck cookbook, offers a maple-glazed duck recipe paired with butternut squash hash and raisins. ‘It’s the perfect profile for those who still want a Thanksgiving flavour without all the extras,’ she adds.

Non-traditional Thanksgiving food creates the perfect opportunity for ‘non-traditional Thanksgiving wines’ to shine. Instead of a light-bodied, bright red fruit-forwarded Gamay or even a classic Pinot Noir, duck dishes with bolder flavours call for more structured, savoury, aromatic, and spice-driven wines like Syrah or Cabernet Franc.

‘Some of our favourite pairings at The Morris for the duck are Northern Rhône Syrah or Loire Cab Franc. The Aurélien Chatagnier “Zélée” Saint Joseph is a great one, but also never a bad excuse to crack that bottle of Thierry Allemand Reynard Cornas,’ says Schmidt. ‘If you want a domestic option, the great folks at Minus Tide make a magical Syrah.’

Seafood selection

While duck has earned its place as a turkey alternative, it’s not the only option shifting the Thanksgiving tablescape. Seafood, too, is making waves. ‘It’s considered a luxurious food,’ says Dave Stern, sales director of Monterey Fish Market in Berkeley, highlighting why it’s quite an obvious choice for special occasions.

Crab is one of the most sought-after items this time of year. Dungeness crab season would typically kick off in mid-November, right in time for Thanksgiving. But that hasn’t been the case for years. ‘The last time the San Francisco crab season opened “on time” was 2018,’ says Stern.

Apparently, some people are so committed to having crab for Thanksgiving that they’re ‘willing to pay whatever it takes’ to secure it. ‘With local Dungeness crab in short supply around the San Francisco Bay Area, we’ve been sourcing from Washington and Canada to meet demand,’ Stern explains.

However, when crab is scarce or the price gets too steep, other shellfish take its place – shrimp, lobster, scallops, clams and mussels are common substitutes. Salmon, too, is a popular choice. ‘It’s great because it stays moist and has a rich flavour,’ says Stern. ‘Black cod, or sablefish, is also gaining traction. Rich, fatty, and delicious,’ he adds.

As for wines, seafood presents a fantastic opportunity to explore coastal, mineral-driven white wines. A bright and light Chardonnay with refreshing notes of lemon peel and a touch of salinity is undoubtedly a solid Thanksgiving choice. ‘With roots in Cazadero, California, I apply my local filter to seafood and wine. Hirsch, in the West Sonoma Coast, is probably one of my first choices,’ says Stern.

Swapping local fare for traditional standards doesn’t change the spirit of the holiday or the celebration of togetherness and sharing that has come to define Thanksgiving.

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