Toscana Rosso – the ‘little brothers’ of Tuscany
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DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy Richard Baudains looks at Toscana Rosso, the 'little brothers' of the famous names of Tuscany...
Tuscany has codified the concept of the ‘little brother’ wine by building the sub-denomination ‘Rosso’ into the production norms of three of its most important DOC/DOCGs.
Brunello has its Rosso di Montalcino; Vino Nobile its Rosso di Montepulciano; and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, the top denomination of the great estates of the Tuscan coastal region, has Bolgheri Rosso.
Read more below
Richard’s Toscana Rosso picks:
For producers, Toscana Rosso wines offer a safety valve that helps maintain the standards of the top estate wines; it also generates cash flow. For wine drinkers, it is a source of wines from great terroirs that do not need laying down, and which typically cost a quarter of the price of their ‘big brothers’.
Wood ageing is an option, but not an obligation, and many producers go down the road of juicy, vat-fermented wines that focus on varietal characters.
The styles
Rosso di Montalcino maintains the all-Sangiovese cépage of Brunello, which in cool vintages can make the Rosso a little hard and lean. In ripe vintages, though, it delivers thoroughbred Tuscany comparable to the level of top Chianti Classico, but with that extra Montalcino grip.
Rosso di Montepulciano is the lightest and freshest of the trio, displaying the classic violet and plum aromas of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, in some cases fleshed out by a dab of Merlot.
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Bolgheri Rosso has the round, soft quality and silky tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon from the coast.
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Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2013

90
Pale carmine shade, delicate nose of red cherry, iris floral notes and almonds, with a hint of powder puff. Tight and long on the palate, very pure, very restrained, even a touch austere, but very classic, very Biondi Santi.
2013
TuscanyItaly
Biondi-SantiRosso di Montalcino
Poggio di Sotto, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2013

89
Intense, spicy fruit with complexity on the nose: blackberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon, chestnut flour, nutmeg. Vibrant, juicy fruit on the palate, tannins a bit raw, with lots of oak to absorb. One to keep.
2013
TuscanyItaly
Poggio di SottoRosso di Montalcino
Tenuta Argentiera, Villa Donoratico, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy, 2013

89
Plum jam, vanilla pods, eucalyptus and a touch of black treacle. Concentrated, juicy wild berry, super-fine tannins and a herby finish.
2013
TuscanyItaly
Tenuta ArgentieraBolgheri

Richard Baudains was born and bred in Jersey in the Channel Islands and trained to be a teacher of English as a foreign language. After several years in various foreign climes, Baudains settled down in beautiful Friuli-Venezia Giulia, having had the good fortune to reside previously in the winemaking regions of Piemonte, Tuscany, Liguria and Trentino-Alto Adige. Baudains wrote his first article for Decanter in 1989 and has been a regular contributor on Italian wines ever since. His day job as director of a language school conveniently leaves time for a range of wine-related activities including writing for the Slow wine guide, leading tastings and lecturing in wine journalism at L’Università degli Studi di Scienze Gastronomiche and for the web-based Wine Scholars’ Guild.