Have you tried Txakoli wines?
Pronounced cha-ko-lee, this Spanish region may not be the first name to roll off your tongue, but its light, dry wines with a barely-there sparkle can be a brilliant tonic at parties and gatherings, or as a gentle aperitif.
Txakoli wines predominantly come from the fiercely independent Basque Country, plus also Cantabria on Spain’s Atlantic coast, along the southern edge of the Bay of Biscay. It is also made in some parts of northern Castile and León.
These days, whites are by far the most commonly produced, and they are famously poured from an extravagant height in the local pintxos bars around San Sebastián’s old town and also in Bilbao – where around 80% of total production is consumed.
They are generally light in alcohol, slightly sparkling and dry. White wines are made from the local Hondarrabi Zuri grapes.
This makes finding Txakoli wines outside of the region tricky, but luckily there are some excellent examples finding their way to foreign shores.
The style
There is often a slight prickle in the glass, a result of the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation being absorbed by the wine, which is covered by a thick veil of nitrogen leaving the CO2 nowhere to go.
Like higher end Muscadet, the best wines of the region spend some time resting on the lees, adding a roundness to the otherwise crisp, tangy and mineral style.
With flavours dominated by apple and citrus, these wines can make off-beat alternatives to more well-known names like Muscadet, Vinho Verde and Picpoul de Pinet.
Three subregions of Txakoli in Spain’s Basque country
Txakoli de Getaria:
The largest of the three sub-regions, located close to the coastal town of San Sebastián. Lees ageing is widely used.
Txakoli de Bizkaia:
Produces particularly minerally examples from vineyards along the coast in the north-west of the region.
Txakolí de Álava:
The smallest of the three, located further inland in the Ayala Valley. The southern part of Álava is home to the Rioja Alavesa subregion.
Txakoli wines – Five to try:
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Gaintza, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
91
Full of vibrancy, opening with a fresh citrus nose. The palate is juicy and round with succulent lemon and stone fruit flavours. A streak of refreshing acidity runs straight through the middle of the body, providing lift, freshness and length.
2015
GaintzaTxakolí
Txomin Etxaniz, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
90
From 35 hectares of vineyards overlooking the Atlantic in Basque country, Txakoli is a regional speciality that sits in the same spectrum of freshness and crispness as Muscadet and Vinho Verde. On the nose there are aromas of dough and citrus, while the palate has a really appealing appley acidity which adds crunch to the slight spritz. Lemon juice, steel and a hint of creamy lees complete the wine, a light and crisp style with surprising complexity when you drill down into it. What more could you want with fresh sardines or ceviche? Available from 14th July 2017.
2016
Txomin EtxanizTxakolí
Maetierra, Atlantis, Txakolí, de Alava, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
90
Sedate waxy apple aromas lead into a crisp, steely palate with mineral and soft spice notes. Although a simple wine, the quality is high and the finish is surprisingly long, making it a great thirst quencher when the sun is out. Try with a goats cheese salad.
2015
MaetierraTxakolí
Itsasmendi, Number 7, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014
89
Made with local grape variety Hondarrabi Zuri blended with 20% Riesling, taken from 18 vineyards. The wine is aged on its lees for 10 months before bottling, lending a lovely roundness to complement the crisp character. It has a baked apple nose, followed by intense baked apple and lemon flavours. Combined with its fresh acidity and mandarin notes on the finish, this fresh character is perfect for summer drinking.
2014
ItsasmendiTxakolí
Gorka Izagirre, Txakolí, de Bizkaia, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
87
Armed with a modern winery and restaurant, Gorka Izagirre's aim is to preserve and promote the Basque wines of Biscay (Bizkaia). This example is a 50/50 blend of two indigenous varieties from 10 different plots spread across seven towns. It has a lean, green apple character followed by juicy lemon and herb notes on the finish. Fresh and crisp, this is a delight to drink.
2016
Gorka IzagirreTxakolí
