Underrated Barolo crus: Five wines to try
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Some Barolo crus get overshadowed by their better known neighbours, says Tom Hyland. He picks five wines demonstrating the originality and value on offer by the lesser-known crus...
Over the last two to three decades, there has been a noticeable shift in how Barolo is presented to the market, with classic Barolo, produced from a number of vineyards or communes, taking a back seat to cru offerings. These single-vineyard releases have given Barolo a higher profile among critics and consumers, with several of the finest sites – such as Cannubi, Brunate and Cerequio – taking on an almost legendary status.
- See Hyland’s five wines to try below
However, there are numerous crus located among the 11 communes of the Barolo production zone that have emerged as superb parcels, yet have not received the same recognition as the most celebrated plots. Vineyards such as Prapò, Lazzarito, Ravera, Monvigliero and others are the source of some of the most important wines from dozens of Barolo’s finest producers. What’s more, a good number of these examples are also less expensive than their famous counterparts – a true win-win situation.
Lesser-known Barolo crus at a glance
Serralunga d’Alba
Prapò Powerful wines, firm tannins, typical Serralunga terroir.
Margheria More fragrant and less tannic than a typical Serralunga Barolo.
Parafada Classic Serralunga power and structure; built for the long haul.
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Meriame Rich black fruit, firm tannins; powerful Serralunga style that ages well.
Lazzarito Big tannic structure, pepper and tar notes; austere wines requiring lengthy ageing.
Monforte d’Alba
Ginestra Typical Monforte power and firm tannins along with expressive red fruit.
Novello
Ravera Elegant, fresh, graceful Barolos in a Burgundian style.
Castiglione Falletto
Villero Minerality and floral notes; delicate red spice; medium to full.
Verduno
Monvigliero Long-lived wines with graceful tannins; floral perfume with notes of red cherry and strawberry.
Barolo
Bricco delle Viole Floral with elegant tannins and bright fruit; peak at 20 years.
La Morra
Conca Wild fruit flavours, distinct balsamic notes; very good acidity; great longevity
Underrated Barolo crus: Five wines to try
Castello di Verduno, Monvigliero, Barolo, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2008

Dried cherry, date and cedar aromas with subtle wood notes, very good acidity, excellent balance and structure and light herbal notes on the finish. Graceful,...
2008
PiedmontItaly
Castello di VerdunoBarolo
Ceretto, Prapò, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2010

93
Red cherry and tar notes, this is youthful, with slightly bitter tannins and impressive persistence. Subtle minerality with excellent structure, this is a powerful wine that needs time to settle down.
2010
PiedmontItaly
CerettoBarolo
Massolino, Margheria, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2011

Red cherry and talcum powder aromas, this is medium-full, with excellent persistence and elegant tannins. Typical of this producer’s graceful style as well as the...
2011
PiedmontItaly
MassolinoBarolo
Elvio Cogno, Ravera, Barolo, Novello, Piedmont, Italy, 2011

The hot 2011 vintage was one of the winery's earliest harvests (28 September) after the torrid 2003. Fissore increased the maceration time to 45 days,...
2011
PiedmontItaly
Elvio CognoBarolo
Ettore Germano, Prapò, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2011

91
Aromas of currant, tobacco and tar, this has very good concentration with firm, but balanced tannins. Subtle wood notes – this has been aged in large casks – plus power as well as a nice sense of restraint.
2011
PiedmontItaly
Ettore GermanoBarolo

Tom Hyland is a freelance wine author, journalist and photographer based in Chicago. He specialises in Italian wines and has a blog dedicated to the subject, called Learn Italian Wines. Aside from Decanter, he has appeared in Sommelier Journal, The World of Fine Wine and Quarterly Review of Wines. His book, The Wines and Foods of Piemonte, was published in 2016.