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2014 was the Drosophila suzukii vintage in Alsace, and the pink/lilac-coloured berries of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer made these varieties particularly susceptible.  Nonetheless, by dint of forensic sorting (in some cases discarding up to half the crop), Jean Boxler has still contrived to make wondrous wines from these varieties.  The Brand Pinot Gris is a tapestry of faintly decadent richness, yet Boxler’s hallmark green threads of freshness and silver threads of elegance are still there in the weave.  (“Riesling is spiritual,” he says, “but Pinot Gris is pure pleasure.  It’s much easier at table than Riesling.  Riesling can break things, but Pinot Gris is easy, it’s friendly, it’s cooperative.”)

Pinot Grigio / Pinot Gris

Albert Boxler, Brand Grand Cru Pinot Gris, Alsace, France, 2014

2014 was the Drosophila suzukii vintage in Alsace, and the pink/lilac-coloured berries of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer made the

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Andrew Jefford

Albert Boxler

Alsace

Albert Boxler, Brand Grand Cru Pinot Gris, Alsace, 2014

Still

Albert Boxler, Brand Grand Cru Pinot Gris, Alsace, 2014

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