Château Phélan Ségur, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Dense black-red, fine meaty, slightly gamey nose, spice continues on the palate, smooth and deep, good future.

Unusually in terms of my recent experience, this is tasting far more plump and inviting than the 2011 right now - with well defined and purely-delivered cassis and bilberry flavours, some creamy texture and enjoyably confident tannins. It has a bright, fresh finish with crushed mint notes and plenty of St Estèphe power. 3.72pH. Harvest from October 8 to 19.

Tasted in magnum, this is another wine showing the current appeal of the 2012s. The nose combines sweet spice and dark fruit with pencil shavings. It’s much fresher and more vibrant than the 2018 tasted alongside, lithe with a coolness to the fruit here. The tannins are quietly present, providing a pleasing grip. The finish is long and savoury – leaving you wanting more.