Domaine Bardi d'Alquier, La Maison Jaune, Faugères, 2022

Although quite light in colour and crystal clear, this has power and concentration in spades. Old-vine Grenache takes the floor, putting forward savoury notes of smoke and dried mint, dried red pepper and fresh thyme. It's intense but still elegant, with fine tannins and a silky smooth texture. With hardly any extraction (no punch downs or pump overs, just gentle submersion of the cap to infuse the grape skins into the wine), there's a lightness of touch and an engrained elegance here.