Renowned as a nectar of the Gods, Commandaria claims the status of the oldest wine still in production, according to Guinness World Records.
Furthermore, this sweet dessert wine, first perfected by the Knights of St John in 1192, is only made in 14 select Cypriot villages high in the Troodos Mountains, which are nicknamed the ‘green heart of Cyprus’.
Last year marked the wine’s 800th anniversary – it allegedly won the world’s first-ever wine competition, the ‘Battle of the Wines’, held by the French King Philip Augustus in 1224 and recorded by French poet Henri d’Andeli.
So what better way to celebrate than by taking a trip back in time to discover the Commandaria Wine Route? Harvest runs from blistering late July to the more comfortable October, but there are warm and welcoming wineries to explore year round. Meanwhile this year’s Limassol Wine Festival, which runs from 27 September to 5 October, provides nine whole days to ‘drink wine to feel alive’, so goes its motto.
Vineyards in Pelendri, Cyprus. Credit: Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism | www.visitcyprus.com
Friday
Evening
A direct flight from London to Paphos takes approximately four and a half hours. At the airport you can collect your hire car and, as the roads are relatively quiet and they drive on the left, just like in the UK, it’s much less daunting to get behind the wheel.
In around 20 minutes, arrive at adult-only Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel, where the spacious executive suites with lounge areas, balconies and sea views also have private pools, jacuzzis and beach cabanas. Enjoy dinner at one of two à la carte restaurants (pre-booking required), preferably beachfront Kymata, ideal for fresh seafood, an extensive wine list and spectacular sunsets.
Before arrival, request a tasting experience with friendly and knowledgeable head barman, George, for an introduction to Commandaria. During the tasting, he’ll enthusiastically share the background to the wine – covering the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) authentication, the indigenous Mavro (red) and Xynisteri (white) grapes used to make it, and how these grapes are picked late in the season and dried in the sun for richer flavours.
Commandaria is a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes for enhanced concentration and flavours. Credit: Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism | www.visitcyprus.com
Saturday
Morning
There’s nothing like waking up to the sound of the sea. At the hotel’s poolside Estia buffet restaurant, find local Cypriot delicacies amongst an international array of breakfast choices. If you’re not the designated driver, you can even enjoy a glass of fizz with your juice or coffee.
The earlier the better for the first nearby stop, the awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Kato Pafos Archaelogical Park for both the Pafos (Pathos) Mosaics and Tombs of the Kings, where both crowds and unbearable heat build throughout the day.
Then head to the cooler Commandaria region, less than an hour’s drive away, where steep, sun-kissed slopes draped in pines and vineyards create a rugged yet beautiful landscape, with terraces neatly carved into the hillsides.
While walk-ins are often welcome, I suggest calling or emailing ahead to reserve visits at the following cellars, all of which provide engaging wine-tasting tours in English.
On the road to Doros village, turn right just before the old church to discover family-run Karseras Winery (Thursday–Saturday, 10am–4pm). Established in 1998, the winery specialises exclusively in Commandaria, with bottles available from the affordable Family Edition (€15) to the special 20th Anniversary Edition (€150).
Afternoon
Just 12 miles to the west lies the pretty Omodos, where on the quaint, cobbled village square you’ll find recommended lunch stop Gerolomo Vini Bar Café. Think hummus, halloumi, traditional arkatena bread and wine-marinated sausages – followed up by a browse through the bottle shop for souvenirs.
Continue to Agios Mamas, around 10 miles away, to discover family-run gem Revecca Winery and Museum, where the organic, small-scale winemakers follow traditions stretching back millennia. In a temperate Mediterranean climate at an altitude of 600–800m grapes are harvested by hand, sun-dried, basket-pressed, and aged for at least two years in old European oak. Learn about this unique winemaking heritage on a guided tour of Revecca’s old family home, which includes a tasting of three current releases.
The amphitheatric view at Tsiakkas Winery. Credit: Tsiakkas Winery
Seven miles to the north in Pelendri, Tsiakkas Winery (closed on Sundays) is worth visiting for the views of Troodos from the tasting tower or outdoor terrace (pictured above) alone. The roots of some of Europe’s highest-altitude vines were planted here in the 1990s by then newlyweds Kostas and Marina Tsiakkas.
Now, both the family and the vineyards have expanded, with the second generation helping to produce 200,000 bottles of wine per year – many of them award-winning revivals of neglected varieties like Yiannoudi and Promara. One of the signature wines, Commandaria, is unforgettable, as is another true spirit of Cyprus: Zivania. Visitors can enjoy several guided tours, as well as events ranging from exhibitions and workshops to dinners and dances.
Evening
Return to Omodos and check into local guest house Stou Kir-Yianni, a family-run agritourism business, where making a dinner reservation is also highly recommended. The mouth-watering meze of gourmet Cypriot cuisine includes a never-ending selection of tzatziki, kebabs, stuffed vine leaves and – the pièce de resistance – roast pork and crackling drizzled with a secret family recipe Commandaria sauce. At weekends, the experience is elevated by the soft sounds of live Greek folk music. Vegetarian and vegan menus are also available.
Sunday
Morning
Wander around sleepy Omodos with its colourful craft shops, delis and street-side tavernas. Don’t miss the Timios Stavros Monastery and the medieval wine press ‘Linos tou Charilaou’.
Afternoon
Wine Brunching Sundays (11am-4pm) are legendary at the charismatic, family-owned Ktima Gerolemo Winery, where you can soak up the views and enjoy wine cocktails (for non-drivers) on the al fresco terrace, along with delicious meze dishes made from locally grown produce. The winery offers fun tasting experience in the cellar, where you’ll sip signature offerings like Commandaria, of course, as well as aged pomace brandy Zivania, served with olives and cheese.
Before returning to the airport, stop off at ancient amphitheatre Kourion and the House of Eustolios or ultimate beauty spot Aphrodite’s Rock, ‘Petra tou Romiou’, renowned as the birthplace of the Goddess of Love.
What does Commandaria taste like?
The Commandaria wine. Credit: Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism | www.visitcyprus.com
Commandaria is best sipped slightly chilled, around 12-16ºC, as a perfect accompaniment to desserts and cheeses. In Cyprus, it’s often served with fresh fruit and traditional sweets, such as pastelaki (nut brittle with sesame seeds and carob syrup); soutzoukos (a sausage-shaped sweet, made of grape juice with almonds or walnuts); or traditional baked treats, such as baklava, galaktoboureko or anari bourekia. Grilled halloumi cheese, drizzled with honey and fig jam also pairs beautifully as do dark chocolate or rich, chocolate-flavoured desserts.
