First Taste: Quinta do Noval 50 Year Old Tawny
Ines Salpico tastes and rates the much-anticipated release of the storied Douro estate's new 50 Year Old Tawny.
Created a mere two years ago, in 2022, the 50 Year Old Tawny category is the youngest of all legally approved styles of Port. It’s perhaps a surprise for many lovers of the storied fortified wine and it was a decision producers and shippers lobbied intensely for.
The IVDP – Intituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto eventually conceded to their calls for a way to value the unique stocks of old wines and the investment and skills that goes into maintaining them.
The evolution of the Port trade – with key markets, not least the UK, shrinking in volume but steadily increasing in value – further justified this stance.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Quinta da Noval’s 50 Year Old Tawny
Appetite for premium
The reception of the 50 Year Old expressions released so far has been enthusiastic, both in the primary and secondary markets. The category’s creation – and the perseverance of producers – has certainly been vindicated.
Given the appetite for these premium releases it was therefore unsurprising to witness the excitement and anticipation following Quinta do Noval’s announcement that its first 50 Year Old Tawny was in the works. The first batch, released in October, has nearly sold out.
Carlos Agrellos, technical director at the iconic quinta – best known for its dramatic, ungrafted Nacional plot – says that the creation of the category fit perfectly with the programme to revitalise old stocks that he was tasked with upon joining Noval in 2017.
Still, the decision to create a 50 Year Old Tawny required careful consideration.
Consistent excellence
‘When the category was created we looked at our stocks to understand whether we could create a quality 50 Year Old that we could maintain as part of Noval’s portfolio,’ Agrellos explains, highlighting the complexity of Port winemaking – not merely a matter of oenological and blending skill but also, and crucially, of stock management.
He continues: ‘The goal would never be to release a one-off, one-hit wonder. We needed to be sure that it could become a [permanent] part of our range – and that we could produce a wine that would be consistently and objectively distinct from and superior to our 40 Year Old.’
Having tasted the new creation – alongside Noval’s other aged tawnies – upon bottling of the first-released lot, I am witness to the fact that Agrellos and his team have succeeded. The 50 Year Old is markedly distinct from its younger counterparts, with a definition and depth that makes it stand out with assertive ease.
When asked to explain the decisions behind the blending of the 50 Year Old, Agrellos says that the team ‘wanted the personality of a true “old tawny” to express itself.’
Youthfulness and freshness (hallmarks of Noval’s most prized Vintage Ports and younger tawnies) were not front of mind.
‘We needed to allow the complexity developed in barrel to be clear. By now we know very well which barrels impart this special personality. The beautiful umami and citrus flavours that develop with time.’
This reflects another of the greatest skills of master blenders: knowledge of the ‘cellar’s terroir’ and the ability to create a stylistic lineage by developing an understanding of the barrel stock akin to that of vineyards.
‘As the wine concentrates flavours, acidity, sweetness and alcohol they need to be “corrected” – this exercise, seeking balance, is the essence of blending a tawny.’
‘The creation of this category is extremely important for Port in general – it truly communicates the uniqueness and skill behind each bottle,’ Agrellos concludes.
Quinta do Noval 50 Year Old Tawny
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Quinta do Noval, 50 Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal
98
Nuanced, deep nose, at once broody and elegant, with dried rose petals, cedar and toasted walnuts against a backdrop of plum and sweet spice. IImpressive focus and definition on the palate with perfectly etched flavours of dried cranberry, dried fig, red apple and pomegranate molasses over an earthy layer of shiitake mushrooms, tobacco leaf and seaweed. Long and linear, with poised honeyed unctuosity on the mid palate and a beautiful tannic structure lined with Earl Grey and bergamot. Tingling cardamom, nutmeg and honey-glazed almonds linger on the finish.
Quinta do NovalPort
