Great wines to drink with classic Italian dishes, from ragù to pasta al limone

La dolce vita is back. Granted, for some of us it never went away; I learnt to cook during a year spent au pairing in Florence, working my way through an increasingly battered copy of The Fratelli Camisa Cookery Book, an experience that permanently wired my culinary brain.

But a smattering of smart restaurant openings in the UK capital – such as Dante Mayfair in Claridge’s, Carbone London and Burro in Covent Garden – has brought trattoria classics back into focus, reimagining them in a beautifully luxe way.

Think silky lobster ravioli; veal Milanese with the lightest, freshest crunch of fried breadcrumbs; ragù with a savoury richness and depth.

These are also – lobster aside – dishes that can easily be cooked at home. Made with good ingredients, they cease to be dull after-work staples and become indulgently luxurious, especially if you pour a good wine to drink alongside them.

Reds wines with ragù

Starting, then, with ragù, which of course can be made so many different ways.

A lunch in Barbaresco with David Gleave MW, chairman of Liberty Wines, many years ago, put me on to the blissful combination of the meaty Piemontese version, typically served with tajarin (ribbon egg pasta), and the smooth curves of Barbera.

As Gleave says: ‘Barbera’s natural acidity cuts through the ragù beautifully, while the juicy fruit of the grape balances rather than does battle with the delicious marriage between the ragù and the pasta.’

Will Amherst, wine buyer for Trullo and Burro restaurants, is definitely not wrong when he says, ‘Beef shin ragù – honestly, you can chuck basically any red wine at it and be reasonably satisfied.’

But it’s worth picking knowingly: you can feel the different moods Amherst is evoking when he continues: ‘Montepulciano does very well with the beef shin ragù at Trullo, as do some of the fruit bombs from the south – Primitivo or Aglianico. And I’ve not tried yet, but I suspect a good Cirò (from Calabria) would go nicely.’

Match of the moment: Wines with pasta al limone

Pasta al limone is a dish from the Amalfi coast that’s having a moment thanks to the viral ‘frozen lemon pasta’ recipe doing the rounds on social media.

It needs a reasonably acidic wine so I usually go for mountain Pinot Grigio, Gavi or Falanghina (for the ruffle of neroli in the nose that plays with the lemon in the pasta), but Greek Assyrtiko is superb, too.

If you’re serving it as a side alongside chicken or meat, then a light, young Valpolicella is an option, too.

More classic pairings

Wines for chicken or veal Milanese

With the fatty crunch of veal or chicken Milanese I’d look for a wine that’s crisp, light and chilled.

If bitter leaves are involved on the side, think Italian for the herbal quality: Gavi for a white or Bardolino for red.

If there’s no astringency in the side dish, a light Pinot Noir, Zweigelt or Gamay would all work, just make sure they’re served cool.

Wines for aubergine parmigiana

Another classic is aubergine parmigiana. As with ragù, you could go any which way with the wine in your glass but I particularly love the throatiness of a good Salice Salentino, the cool of a Nero d’Avola or the slightly high-church feel of a Valpolicella Ripasso.

Best wines for chicken liver toasts

Finally, a favourite dish that I don’t eat enough: crostini di fegatini di pollo – chicken liver toasts. Amherst speaks to my food soul when he says: ‘I’m used to the rough-cut Tuscan liver bruschetta, which is a lot more textured than mousse-y French paté.

'I always think of Sangiovese as having jagged, slightly rustic tannin and I think a bright, young, lithe Chianti Classico or something from one of the cooler Chianti zones (such as Rùfina) lends itself better than a weightier, more polished wine from Montalcino – although lighter styles of Rosso from some producers would also work.’

Just make sure you buy good chicken livers. I use the Claudia Roden recipe, which is wonderful.

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