Giacomo Conterno
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

From my Monforte hotel it was an easy walk to the Conterno cellars...

Producer profile: Giacomo Conterno

The truth is that they were both outstanding winemakers. Giovanni’s most famous wine was Monfortino, made only in top years by setting aside one vat and ageing it for seven years or more in casks.

Although a gleam came into his eye when he spoke of ‘tradizione’, Giovanni was never opposed to modern technology, and welcomed temperature control as he could prolong the maceration but at moderate temperatures.

At their best, the Conterno wines were magnificent and long-lived, but there could be disappointments, especially among older, more fragile vintages.

And although I hugely admired his Barolo and the Monfortino, the wines I actually bought and drank were the majestic Dolcetto (last vintage 2000) and Barbera d’Alba. Traditional to the core, but suffused in sumptuous fruit.

After Giovanni died in 2004, his son Roberto maintained his father’s stylistic signature. He is not opposed to barriqueageing as such, but doesn’t want to add an element that’s external to the vineyard.

‘I would rather hear someone say “I don’t like this wine but I recognise it”, than that they like the wine but have no idea what it is.’

Wines to try from Giacomo Conterno

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo 2004

Warm spicy nose, with aromas of cherries and raspberries. Medium-bodied, the pronounced acidity highlighting the red-fruit character. Concentrated, quite tannic but not tough, with excellent balance and freshness. It’s discreet and understated, but has tremendous underlying elegance. Long. (93/100pts)

Buy: UK £266.50 (magnum) Upper Case // US $235 Cana Wine Company

Drink 2016-2030

Alc 14.5%

Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba 2009

Sweet, intense, plummy nose. The attack is bright and zesty, with flavours of plums and red fruits. Vivacious, and the high alcohol is not evident. Voluptuous but not heavy, and has admirable length. (92/100pts)

Buy: UK £74.50 (1.5l) Chelsea Vintners

Drink 2016-2025

Alc 15%

Stephen Brook
Stephen Brook

Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.