Producer profile: Giorgio Pelissero
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Pelissero is an unashamed modernist, eager to use, though judiciously, barriques for his opulent reds.
Producer profile: Giorgio Pelissero
He’s a showman, entertaining visitors at his new cellars in Treiso, but works hard too, regularly attending global wine fairs to promote his wines and recoup the considerable investments he has made.
Even though his top Barbaresco, Vanotu, is aged entirely in new barriques, he is no devotee of new oak for its own sake.
Other Barbarescos, such as the blend called Nubiola and the splendid Tulin from rocky soils, are aged in a mix of casks and barriques.
There’s no shortage of outstanding winemakers in Barbaresco, but I just happen to like Pelissero: impish, confident but questioning; international in outlook, yet rooted in Treiso.
And the wines are designed to give pleasure, and hardly ever disappoint.
Wines to try from Giorgio Pelissero
Giorgio Pelissero, Vanotu, Barbaresco 2001
Piquant, oaky, red-fruit nose, stylish and aromatic. Medium-bodied and sleek, textured and balanced, with good acidity, giving a long, leafy, elegant finish. No rush to drink.(93/100pts)
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Buy: UK £51.45 GP Brands // US $230 Toast Wines by Taste
Drink 2016-2028
Alc 14%
Giorgio Pelissero, Tulin, Barbaresco 2010
Very perfumed, floral nose, with red-fruit aromas. Fresh attack, concentrated but also polished with sleek tannins. Delicious fruit, zesty and tangy, with great immediacy and excellent length. (93/100pts)
Buy: UK £41.67 Millesima // US $99 Wine.com
Drink 2016-2030
Alc 14%
Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.
