Massolino
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

It’s no coincidence that some of the region’s greatest producers have extensive vineyards in Serralunga: Bruno Giacosa, Gaja and Conterno for a start..

Producer profile: Massolino

Franco Massolino adapts the winemaking to the vineyard. Margheria is on sandy soils and gives fragrant but relatively light wines, so it’s aged only in casks.

South-facing Parafada is also quite sandy but has chalk too, so Franco chooses to age the wines in 25% new barriques and tonneaux.

Massolino’s top site, Vigna Rionda, the source of the Barolo Riserva, is aged in casks; it’s the estate’s most tannic and long-lived wine.

It has concentration and power without heaviness and, as in 2008, fabulous length. It’s a flamboyant, showcase Barolo, but the other crus can be splendid too, even the lighter Margheria, with its pure red fruits and intensity of flavour.

Wines to try from Massolino

Massolino, Vigna Rionda, Barolo Riserva 2008

Elegant and fragrant red-fruit nose, Full-bodied, compact and powerful, dense and very concentrated. But beneath the hefty structure is splendid fruit, impeccable balance and firm but not chunky tannins. Very long. (95/100pts)

Buy: UK £60 Fine & Rare // US $129 Morrell Wine

Drink 2018-2035

Alc 14%

Massolino, Margheria, Barolo 2010

A complex nose, with aromas of raspberries, redcurrants and sour cherries. Dense, tannic and very concentrated, but has good acidity. It’s structured and precise but very austere for this cru, and needs time. Long. (92/100pts)

Buy: UK £81.30 Hedonism // US $99.98 The Wine House

Drink 2018-2032

Alc 14.5%

Stephen Brook
Stephen Brook

Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.