It’s no coincidence that some of the region’s greatest producers have extensive vineyards in Serralunga: Bruno Giacosa, Gaja and Conterno for a start..
Producer profile: Massolino
The village is also home to some first-rate local winemakers, including Massolino. This 18-hectare estate is run by two brothers: Roberto (taking care of the vineyards) and Franco (winemaking).
Franco Massolino adapts the winemaking to the vineyard. Margheria is on sandy soils and gives fragrant but relatively light wines, so it’s aged only in casks.
South-facing Parafada is also quite sandy but has chalk too, so Franco chooses to age the wines in 25% new barriques and tonneaux.
Massolino’s top site, Vigna Rionda, the source of the Barolo Riserva, is aged in casks; it’s the estate’s most tannic and long-lived wine.
It has concentration and power without heaviness and, as in 2008, fabulous length. It’s a flamboyant, showcase Barolo, but the other crus can be splendid too, even the lighter Margheria, with its pure red fruits and intensity of flavour.
Wines to try from Massolino
Massolino, Vigna Rionda, Barolo Riserva 2008
Elegant and fragrant red-fruit nose, Full-bodied, compact and powerful, dense and very concentrated. But beneath the hefty structure is splendid fruit, impeccable balance and firm but not chunky tannins. Very long. (95/100pts)
Buy: UK £60 Fine & Rare // US $129 Morrell Wine
Massolino, Margheria, Barolo 2010
A complex nose, with aromas of raspberries, redcurrants and sour cherries. Dense, tannic and very concentrated, but has good acidity. It’s structured and precise but very austere for this cru, and needs time. Long. (92/100pts)
Buy: UK £81.30 Hedonism // US $99.98 The Wine House