The alternative Costa del Sol for wine lovers
This glittery stretch of the southern Spanish coast is not just about extravagant luxury. The lesser-known Costa del Sol is full of unexpected and memorable experiences guaranteed to appeal to the more intrepid wine and food lover.
The words ‘Costa del Sol’ conjure up and not-always-tasteful luxury – designer shops, glitzy nightclubs, shiny supercars and yacht-studded marinas marking the Costa out as a playground of the rich.
It’s true, all that does exist along Spain’s southernmost coastline, notably the western stretch between Marbella and Manilva, including ultra-extravagant resort town Puerto Banús. But what happens along the other two-thirds of Málaga’s sun coast? Let’s have a look.
Officially the Costa del Sol lies within Málaga province, stretching between Nerja in the east to Manilva in the west. Sotogrande (Cádiz province) also gets an honourable mention since, although not technically a part of the Costa del Sol, it shares its tourist identity and people who live there consider themselves to be a vital part of the Costa lifestyle.
The entire Costa is on the Mediterranean, but geographically and culturally the two halves of the east/west divide – taking Málaga city as the median – could hardly be more different: each offers a contrast of landscapes, microclimates, lifestyles and culture – and, of course, gastronomy and wines.
Let’s assume you have arrived in Málaga (always a good choice) – in this article, we shall offer you plenty of ideas for some decidedly un-glam Costa del Sol places to check out, depending on whether you opt to turn to the east or west. It’s not a list as such, more a pick-n-mix selection of destinations that will enable you to tailor your route depending on your day. Remember to book all activities and restaurants in advance, and bear in mind that you will need a car for most of these day trips. The distance of each recommended spot from Málaga, in kilometres, is noted in brackets, to help you plan your outings and itineraries.
Málaga
Epicurean appeal
Málaga’s provincial capital city has certainly reinvented itself over the past 10 to 15 years. New museums, world-class gastronomy, a renovated port and 14km of beachfront have turned what used to be considered a mere point of arrival into the cultural hub of the region, and a serious travel destination in itself.
In addition to having its own wine museum, the Museo del Vino, Málaga boasts a couple of other slightly off-the-radar museums that are well worth checking out. The MAM Museo del Automóvil y la Moda is a surprising and delightful mix of two fashionable worlds, with the clothing exhibit rotated every six months. And, located within the 18th-century home of historian Gonzalo Fernández-Prieto, the glass and crystal museum Museo del Vidrio y Cristal houses an exquisite private collection of more than 3,000 pieces, along with paintings and other decorative objects.
There is no shortage of top tapas bars, restaurants and wine bars in town, including Julián Sanjuán’s Los Patios de Beatas vinoteca and restaurant, and Michelin one-star Kaleja by malagueño star chef Dani Carnero.
But it is also worth travelling northeast of the city (26km from Málaga), to the Montes de Málaga natural park for a special mountain winery visit.
Victoria Ordoñez (DO Sierras de Málaga) has been involved in the Málaga wine scene all her life and in 2015 branched out with her own project. She’s producing high-quality artisanal wines at the only winery within the city limits, with vineyards located in the Montes de Málaga, just 20 minutes away. Her three-hour Mountain Wines Tour (from €50 per person, including wines and snacks) is available upon request via the website links. Also out to the northeast of the city, but only 5km away in the rural outskirts, you can find La Taberna de Mike Palmer – take the Camino de los Almendrales out over the A-7 motorway, and it’s right next to the Pinar equestrian club. Don’t be fooled by the name, this is no ex-pat bar – indeed, here, local culinary legend Miguel Palma’s rustic outdoor grill offers one of the most sought-after dining experiences in the province.
East of Málaga
Rugged and ancient
With its mountains overlooking the sea, lined with caves and coves, this side of the Costa del Sol is well suited to nature enthusiasts – as well as wine lovers.
In the easternmost part of the province of Málaga, Nerja (57km) is a charming, strollable town of winding narrow streets, whitewashed houses, little squares and churches. Here you will find the magnificent Balcón de Europa (‘Europe’s balcony’), a promenade built on the edge of a cliff with views of the stunning Mediterranean coastline on either side.
The spectacular Nerja caves, just to the northeast of the town, house some of the earliest known examples of human art, dating back 42,000 years. An unforgettable experience.
Heading back towards Málaga, plan a stop at Restaurante El Saladero (@el_saladero_caleta) in Caleta de Vélez (34km). This family-run chiringuito (beach bar) stands out for its value for money and top-quality fish and seafood. Stick your feet in the sand and watch your order being grilled over open charcoal just a few feet away from your table.
If you decide to head north from Nerja you’ll find the impossibly pretty town of Frigiliana less than 10km away (56km from Málaga). It’s an excellent stop-off point to enjoy magnificent views before continuing on to the tiny white mountain village of Sayalonga (45km from Málaga, 28km from Frigiliana) and Bodegas Bentomiz (DO Málaga, DO Sierras de Málaga), founded in 2003 by chef/architect André Both and winemaker Clara Verheij, originally from Holland. Their stunning property, designed by André, overlooks the village and houses both the winery and restaurant. Visits (from €19 per person) include a tour of the bodega and a tasting in the restaurant, with the option of booking a three-, five- or 10-course lunch (from €59) specifically created to pair with their Ariyanas range of dry and naturally sweet wines, made primarily from Moscatel de Alejandría and Romé grapes.
Closer to Málaga, if you’re setting out from there for a day, is Rincón de la Victoria (17km), where you can visit Villa Antiopa, one of the best-preserved Roman villas in Andalucía (see turismoenrincon.es for both), and the Cueva del Tesoro ‘treasure cave’. One of only a few examples known in the world of a marine-formed cave system that’s now accessible, it contains prehistoric cave paintings and has fresh water running through it.
From here you could either head further east or north. To the east, in Torre del Mar (towards Caleta de Vélez) is El Alimentario. A little out of the centre of the town, this restaurant run by Catalán chef Jaime Tejedor offers a menu of ‘complex simplicity’ with the goal of making haute cuisine accessible to everyone. It’s best for winter visits.
Just under 10km north of Rincón de Victoria, in the Axarquía mountains, is the charming white- painted village of Moclinejo (22km from Málaga). Here, third-generation winemaker Juan Muñoz runs Bodegas Dimobe, A Muñoz Cabrera with his siblings. In 2015, he partnered with local winemaker Vicente Inat and together they began their more personal project Viñedos Verticales (DO Málaga, DO Sierras de Málaga). Visits to the Dimobe bodega (where Verticales is also based) and vineyards (from €25 per person) are available upon request (use the contact form on the Verticales website).
For lunch, stop at family-run Bar Restaurante Reyes (@barrestaurantereyes) in the centre of Moclinejo for hearty local cuisine steeped in tradition, relying on locally sourced ingredients and seasonal produce.
West of Málaga
Tales of the unexpected
There’s a lot going on in Benalmádena town (20km). As well as its attractive beach and marina, there is an aquarium and Colomares castle a fairytale castle- style monument.
Or you could take the cable car up to Mount Calamorro – which runs from the station at Avenida Manantial – for breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and sea.
But we’re here for the butterflies. The Mariposario de Benalmádena butterfly garden is located within a spectacular Thai Buddhist temple complex just northwest of town. Stroll among more than 1,500 exotic butterflies as they fly freely in this tropical paradise inside an enormous greenhouse.
From there it’s a short jaunt over to El Parador Playa for spectacular fish and seafood at one of the best beachfront restaurants on the coast. Third-generation chef Francis Muñoz clearly understands ‘minimal intervention’ when it comes to presenting fresh products from the sea, but his astonishing small-plate creations also provide an innovative contrast that’s not to be missed. Serious wine list, too.
Heading west, Casa Navarra (@casa.navarra) is midway between Fuengirola on the coast and Mijas inland (on the A-387 road). This family-run spot brings northern Spanish culture and cuisine to the south, serving up dishes from Spain’s rich culinary past in a gorgeous, rustic setting. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine cellar.
Mijas itself (33km) is a bit further up the mountain and in this sleepy, charming town you will find Bodegas Hermanas López Lavado (hermanaslavado@gmail.com). The winery is run by Javier López, who planted his first vines in 2004 and began production in his garage in 2011. Javier offers visits with tastings (weekends and evenings only – he’s a local police officer by day) of his small- production, minimal-intervention wines.
The Ralli museum (65km) is a proper hidden gem between Marbella and Puerto Banús. Opened in 2000, it contains one of the most important Latin American art collections in Europe. The website offers a downloadable pdf to help personalise your self-guided visit.
Afterwards, nip over to the pretty town of San Pedro Alcántara – a 10-minute drive west along the A-7 – to the new location of legendary Restaurante El Campanario (@restaurantecampanario), one of the top temples of grilling on the Costa del Sol. Marbella chef Manuel Marín announced the move of premises this summer, saying it represented a natural evolution in Campanario’s journey, offering a more intimate and approachable experience. It has already won over both locals and tourists.
Moving further westward towards the beautiful white village of Casares (102km, a little inland on the MA8300), you will find Sarmiento Brasa Andaluza. The restaurant is in an ideal location up in the hills, looking over the village and the sea – on a clear day you can see Morocco. It is run by two brothers, Miguel and Juan Diego Hernández, who were born in the village and honed their craft at Michelin restaurants around the world before returning home. They are proud to have amassed one of the largest collections of Andalusían wine in the world.
Between Casares and Manilva (105km), a town at the western border of Málaga province, is Baños de la Hedionda, a sulphurous spring dating back to the late Middle Ages, whose current structure was built from the 17th century. Reservations are open from June to September.
Also in Manilva, you’ll find Bodega Nilva (DO Sierras de Málaga), a project that began in 2014 to recover and protect the area’s dwindling Moscatel de Alejandría vineyards. A joint effort between the Manilva city council and winemaker Argimiro Martínez, the small bodega is located in the centre of the town, and houses a wine museum and interpretation centre. The Nilva Wine Experience (€30 per person) is available upon request and includes a picnic-style tasting with snacks in the vineyard.
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