First taste: Veuve Clicquot, Extra Brut, Extra Old
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Michael Edwards tasted the new release from Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Read his review below...
First Taste: Veuve Clicquot, Extra Brut, Extra Old Champagne
Veuve Clicquot’s Extra Brut, Extra Old is a first in several ways.
The ‘Assemblage’ – a preciser word than blend to describe its intricacy – is drawn from the house’s famous collection of reserve wines, in particular the 1988, 1996, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages.
The grape varieties are very close to the classic choices that Veuve Clicquot herself preferred as she built her brand post 1815: today, 47% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay and 26% Pinot Meunier – the quintessence of the house’s heritage & core values.
More innovatively, and perhaps uniquely among the big houses, Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut, Extra Old is double aged- three years on lees in vats (up to 5% oak), then three years in bottle before release.
This slow maturing allows the wine to become soft and mellow yet light-footed, needing a tiny dosage of just three grams of sugar; the smallest figure in the house’s history.
A Champagne for refined cuisine – try tartare of scallops, risottos, sushi and sashimi.
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The wine is set to have a recommended retail price of £70 per bottle.
Tasting note
Lovely colour bright, delicate gold twinkles, superfine flowing cordon of bubbles. Poised intensity of aromas/ flavours, greengage, peach and spiced lemon, a soupçon of liberating oak. Toasty finale.
Drink: 2018 -2025
Score: 95
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Michael Edwards trained in Law, reading for the Bar at Gray’s Inn, London. In 1968, he joined Laytons, and while living in France in the 1970s represented fine estates in Burgundy and Alsace .
He has also been a chief inspector of the Egon Ronay restaurant Guide. A freelance writer for 30 years, he has specialised in Champagne, in 2010 winning the Roederer Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne.
He became the first non-Champenois to be admitted order of Confrère St Vincent de Vertus. He’s researching a new book on Champagne and other great sparkling wines.
Michael Edwards was first a DWWA judge in 2004 and was most recently a judge at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).