Sauternes and Barsac 2011 & 2013: Top wines
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When high residual sugars were balanced by zingy acidity, these 2011 and 2013 Sauternes and Barsac showed us why they are so highly regarded. Here are the 15 outstanding and highly recommended wines from this Decanter panel tasting.
There was no question that our tasters were upbeat about the quality and value of Sauternes and Barsac 2011 & 2013 vintages, noting that they were certainly superior to their dry red equivalents in Bordeaux.
- See the wines below
‘Overall, I thought this was a pretty strong tasting, with few poor wines and plenty of good ones,’ said Xavier Rousset MS. So too did Stephen Brook and Sebastian Payne MW, who concurred that these are two very good years book-ending the lacklustre 2012 vintage.
2013 ‘more up and down’
Comparing the two, Brook noted that the 2013s had ‘a sort of solidity’, whereas the 2011s had ‘more raciness and flair’.
‘If the growers did have a problem in 2011, it was because the fruit had too much botrytis,’ Brook said. According to Payne, ‘2013 was more up and down because, while there was noble rot, there was also grey rot. The key to success was often the healthiness or otherwise of the raw material.’
Rising sweetness levels
All three tasters picked up on an ongoing trend in Sauternes regarding rising sweetness levels. In particular, Brook drew attention to the fact that in both vintages sugar levels were sometimes up to 180 grams per litre– almost double what they were 25 years ago. However, that didn’t concern him unduly, providing the wines were balanced.
The panel did debate what was behind this. Brook argued that higher sugar and lower alcohol levels might make the wines more accessible when younger. ‘I do think that the initial sugar kick makes most of these wines attractive when young. This never used to be the case.’
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‘Best wines will keep for 40 years’
But will they age as well as their forebears? Again, it came back to balance. ‘The best wines will keep for 40 years unless they lack acidity in the first place. They might be a problem to sell, but there’s no problem at all in ageing them,’ said Payne.
‘For me’, said Payne, ‘Sauternes is and always will be one of the great wine styles of the world because the wines are so glorious to drink and keep for such a long time. And they are such ridiculously good value for money.’
The best Sauternes and Barsac 2011 & 2013 wines:
Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2013

Founded by Jean St-Marc du Latourblanche, the estate was gifted to the French government in 1909 with the agreement that a wine school was to...
2013
BordeauxFrance
Château La Tour BlancheSauternes
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2013

19
<p>Bought by Lalique owner Silvio Denz, the estate was a fortress in the 13th century and takes its current name from Sieur Raymond Peyraguey, who purchased the property in 1618 and from M Lafaurie. He in turn had acquired it in 1796.<br /> <br /> The estate boasts 41ha under vine, of which some are exceptionally old, planted in the late 1920s. Sémillon is most planted (93%), with a little Sauvignon Blanc (6%) and Muscadelle (1%). The wines are admired for their unique balance of power and elegance.<br /> <br /> <em><strong>Stephen Brook</strong></em><br /> Discreetly oaky nose dominates the underlying pineapple and apricot fruit. Very sweet attack, silky and almost racy, with fine purity. This has finesse and poise, and the balance and acidity should ensure a good evolution. Slightly exotic and candied with very good length.<br /> <br /> <strong><em>Sebastian Payne</em></strong><br /> Creamy and rich, this has considerably more depth than most in this vintage. For me, this is the star of the tasting.<br /> <br /> <em><strong>Xavier Rousset MS</strong></em><br /> Nose and palate of mango, quince and apricot. Balanced with well-integrated oak; rich but still has real finesse and character.</p>
2013
BordeauxFrance
Château Lafaurie-PeyragueySauternes
Château Doisy-Daëne, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

In the late 1880s, owner Jacques Emmanuel Daëne added his family name to that of the vineyard’s (Doisy). In 1924 it was bought by Georges...
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château Doisy-DaëneSauternes
Château Rieussec, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

18
Lush, waxy, stone fruits nose, with some honey and botrytis tones. The natural acidity will keep this alive for many years. Very rich and succulent, velvety, with grip and structure and lots of finesse.
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château RieussecSauternes
Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

92
Lush apple compote and apricot nose with a kiss of oak and a hint of lanolin. Unctuous texture – rich and powerful – but with enough fruit and acidity to balance. A unique, luscious but lively style. Stephen Brook 90 Sebastian Payne MW 93 Xavier Rousset MS 93
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château GuiraudSauternes
Château Lamothe-Guignard, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

92
Firm, oaky nose, with ample stone fruits and mango lurking beneath. This has finesse and class yet is easy to appreciate. A stunning wine with fine concentration and acidity with a long, pineapple finish. Stephen Brook 95 Sebastian Payne MW 95 Xavier Rousset MS 86
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château Lamothe-GuignardSauternes
Château Coutet, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

18
<p>Voluptuous apricot and pineapple nose that is quite lifted and aromatic. Purity of fruit and racy with great concentration, without being too dense. Tangy with excellent balance and a fine future. Delicious!</p>
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château CoutetSauternes
Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

91
Reticent nose of apple and apricot. Palate of unctuous texture with honey and ginger notes. Very high acidity makes for an invigorating drink. The spicy finish lingers, and ensures it will develop nicely. Stephen Brook 92 Sebastian Payne MW 90 Xavier Rousset MS 91
2011
BordeauxFrance
Clos Haut-PeyragueySauternes
Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2013

93
Fresh and zesty with an almost minty-herbal edge. Deceptively rich as well (150g/L RS). Sweet attack on the palate, then long and linear on the finish. The acidity is present but wrapped in fruit.
2013
BordeauxFrance
Château SuduirautSauternes
Château Doisy-Védrines, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2013

17
<p>Heady, waxy nose shows botrytis, honey and ripe stone fruits. A good interpretation of the vintage, this is surprisingly forward and approachable with a lovely texture and finesse. Finishes long with a real zing.</p>
2013
BordeauxFrance
Château Doisy-VédrinesSauternes
Château Caillou, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

90
Delicate floral nose with intense flavours of mango, quince and ginger. Rich and svelte palate with good acidity to give plenty of cut and bite. Where else in the world can you find such a luscious wine with such a lovely finish Stephen Brook 86 Sebastian Payne MW 93 Xavier Rousset MS 90
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château CaillouSauternes
Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

17
<p>Opulent nose of apples, apricots and honey. Rich and creamy palate in a voluptuous style but with enough underlying acidity to keep it fresh. You can almost taste the skins of the grapes bursting with extract and life force.</p>
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château SuduirautSauternes
Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

Has real class and fine balance between acidity and richness. A lean palate, sleek with exotic fruit and mint. Long, spicy and precise with brooding...
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château La Tour BlancheSauternes
Château Doisy-Védrines, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

17
Charming apricot nose, not that sumptuous but elegant. Sweet but lean, with a silky texture, and pretty stone-fruits and pineapple. Not a heavyweight but lively and balanced, with a candied finish. Stephen Brook 89 Sebastian Payne MW 88 Xavier Rousset MS 91
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château Doisy-VédrinesSauternes
Château Doisy-Daëne, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2013
Discreet apple and apricot nose, with some honey and oak in the background. The palate is waxy with well integrated oak and some floral notes....
2013
BordeauxFrance
Château Doisy-DaëneSauternes

Jeannie Cho Lee MW is an author, wine critic, judge and educator as well as the first Asian Master of Wine. A contributing editor of Decanter, she is also a Professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, a columnist for Robb Report China and Forbes, and has been a consultant for Singapore Airlines since 2008. Lee’s love for Asian cuisine and wine inspired her to write the award-winning book, Asian Palate, and to found AsianPalate.com as well as JeannieChoLee.com. She was Vice-chair of the Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DWWA) 2019.