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Drink again. As Stephen Brook found on a recent trip to Friuli, there is a nucleus of winemakers crafting Pinot Grigios on the slopes of Friuli with more poise and persistence than its bland alter-ego ever had
Pinot Grigio to make you drink again
Lis Neris, Gris, Isonzo 2011
18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)
Sumptuous apple and mango nose. Quite exotic. Creamy apple compote flavours on the palate, opulent but not heavy. Spicy and complex, with a seductive texture and limpid, lifted finish. Good length.
Price: £20.42-£24.50 D Byrne, Hedonism
Drink 2015-2022
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Alc 14%
Vie di Romans, Dessimis, Isonzo 2012
18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)
Pale copper-pink. Rich, nutty pear nose. Creamy, powerful and spicy, with a juicy texture, yet has pungency and fine balancing acidity. Very long.
Price: £22.28-£33.40 Widely available via UK agent, Liberty Wines
Drink 2015-2024
Alc 14.9%
Livon, Braide Grande, Collio 2013
18pts/20 (93/100pts)
Ripe, spicy nose, pear crumble. Swaggering palate. With great breadth of fruit, this is concentrated but accessible, with fine acidity to balance the wine. Pure pleasure and fine length.
Price: £17-£20 Eurowines, Simply Wines
Drink 2015-2022
Alc 13.5%
Schiopetto, Collio 2011
18pts/20 (93/100pts)
Subtle, floral, ripe pear nose. Rich, creamy and concentrated, with fine but discreet acidity. Delicious fruit, nutty but bright and elegant. Long.
Price: £20 New Generation Wine
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%
Toros, Collio 2013
18pts/20 (93/100pts)
Bracing melon and mango nose, seems oaky although it is unoaked. Firm and concentrated, with extract and vigour, ample personality and good length.
Price: £25.99 (2011) Selfridges
Drink 2016-2024
Alc 14%
Branko, Collio 2013
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Heady floral nose with ripe apple fruit. Good attack, lively but also has weight and concentration, with just a hint of sweetness. Balanced and long.
Price: £19.40 Hedonism
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13.5%
Dario Princic, Collio 2006
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Coppery colour. Startling nose of strawberry, honey and flowers. Medium-bodied, with a grape-skin burr, moderate acidity, and a firm dry finish. Biodynamic.
Price: £26.67 (2009) Exel
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%
La Tunella, Colli Orientali 2013
17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Perfumed citrus and apple nose. Concentrated and suave, yet has firm underlying acidity. Fresh and citric but shows some mineral complexity and fine length.
Price: £11.25 Corney & Barrow
Drink 2015-2020
Alc 13%
Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.