The Port industry is experiencing a quick and exciting transformation. While many producers are producing ever-more characterful and balanced wines, they remain fearlessly committed to history and tradition – in the cellar as well as on the table.
Nothing is more evocative of the endurance of traditions than Christmas celebrations. And the festive season is the time of year when Port is allowed to shine brightly on the dinner table – and under the Christmas tree. Port makes for such a stylish and thoughtful gift – mostly as a companion to the season’s luscious cheese spreads.
However, making the most out of this flagship coupling is not as straightforward as it may seem.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Port wine is its complex diversity; the multiple styles, the intricate terroirs along the meandering banks of the Douro and the identity of each Port house which is translated into an incredible array of wines.
This in turn means that there isn’t a glass of Port suitable for all cheeses – if you want to enjoy the full gamut of flavours and textures in both or either, you’ll need to embark on a pairing journey.
In other cheese and wine pairing articles we’ve explained why one of the main enemies of milk-based foods is tannins (hence why we suggest that a full-bodied, aged white, in lieu of red, is a much better go-to pairing for cheese platters). It follows that a Vintage Port, with its luscious fruit and assertive tannins, will easily overpower the delicate aromatics of a brie or the creaminess of a Camembert.
So does one need to forego that special bottle of Port saved for Christmas dinner? Absolutely not. It’s all about embracing complexity and enjoying the fun of exploring both Ports and cheeses. Use it as an excuse to open more bottles and expand your festive cheese spread!
Happy endings, better beginnings
The first myth worth debunking is that you need to save your Port for the end of the meal. Some Port styles are best suited for other parts of your festive meals. Not least as a stage setting aperitif; nothing more refreshing and delicious than a white Port & Tonic. Experiment with different white Ports, mixers and toppings served alongside canapés.
Substantial starters can also benefit from a Port companion. A starter of foie gras with pickled walnuts paired with an old Vintage Port is the stuff of dreams. It cuts right through the fatty richness of the dish while joining in an harmonious dialogue of earthy flavours.
And onto the pièce de résistance: the acidity and subtle nuttiness of slightly aged Tawny (ten or 20 years old) will enhance your goose and turkey, especially if served with a rich gravy or cranberry sauce.
Further aged Tawnys and aged Whites, on the other hand, are perfect alongside chocolate or caramel-based desserts.
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Battle of equals
Festive moments are often punctuated by Vintage Ports from meaningful years. However, as mentioned above, when it comes to food pairing you’ll need to tread carefully due to the aromatic and tannic power of these wines.
Creamy, soft, mild cheeses will see its fat bind unpleasantly with the tannins. What you need is a powerful cheese to match. Aged, hard and spicy cheeses – such as aged pecorino, aged Cheddar, Lincolnshire Poacher, aged Comté or Parmigiano-Reggiano – will offer the perfect counterpoint in both flavour and texture. ‘[Vintage] is a favourite style, and one that people often resolve for special occasions,’ says Filipe Wang, sommelier of the JNcQUOI group (multiple locations in Portugal). ‘What we’re considering here is matching strengths.’
Intense – non-creamy – blue cheeses, such as thievery Christmassy, much-loved Stilton or matured Roquefort, will also have a great match in the deep juicy fruit and balsamic nuances of Vintage Port.
The key, common denominator in all these cheeses is salt, ‘I would favour young Vintages which have really strong tannins – strong, salty cheeses will balance them perfectly,’ Says Wang. ‘The saltiness [of the cheeses] is important; it’s the perfect counterpoint to the tannins.’
Add some dried cranberries, glazed orange peel, prunes or walnuts to the mix to take the pairing to the next level.
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Here comes the White
One of the most exciting and fast-evolving styles of Port comes in multiple hues of amber. White Port (of which we explored an exciting selection in our December 2025 issue) can deliver both the fruity allure and zesty twist needed for a perfect Port & Tonic as well as – in the aged categories – incredible complexity, luscious nuttiness, intense orchard fruit (both fresh and dried) and a long finish with lingering honey and spice.
White Ports make for perfect companions for softer, creamier cheeses. ‘A young Extra Dry with goat’s cheeses – which tend to have more acidity and a fresher, sometimes citric, finish – will be a really good combination,’ says Wang. ‘The wine’s acidity and fruity profile will match the delicate profile of the cheese.’ Brie, Camembert, Wigmore or young Crotin will also have a good match in a young White Port. More intense counterparts – such as St Jude, Reblochon or St Marcellin – will be best alongside a White Colheita.
Tawny – the sweet spot
One of Port’s finest styles, Tawny, covers a quite wide array of profiles depending on how long the wines have aged in barrel. ‘I personally like to match cheeses, especially those with a nutty, slightly sweet finish – 18-month Gryere for example – with ten and 20 year old Tawnys,’ says Wang. ‘30 [year olds] and above are too concentrated. I wouldn’t recommend having them with cheese at all – I think they’re best enjoyed with a dessert or, better even, a cigar.’
Some fresh grapes, membrillo (quince paste) and roasted winter nuts are perfect add-ons to a Tawny and cheese combination.
Creative versatility
If you’re on a budget (aren’t we all!?) and/or don’t want to open more than one bottle of Port there are reliable all-rounders you can rely on. The absence of tannins and fine acidity of a White Port and the filigree nuttiness of a 20 year old Tawny makes them the best bets for ideal all-rounders, that will cope with the different palate tension of cheeses (fat, salt, acidity, umami).
The ultimate rule is, however, that you drink your favourite Port, surrounded by your favourite people. And you might want to make Port a source of comfort and a welcome treat all year round – Port surely deserves a place at the table beyond the festive period.
