White Burgundy 2008 revisited on their ninth birthday

white burgundy 2008 revisited oliver leflaive puligny montrachet — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

William Kelley takes a look at how white Burgundy from the 2008 vintage has evolved with Sarah Marsh MW and David Robert MW...

White Burgundy 2008 tasting notes below

In April, a tasting of white Burgundies from 2008, organised by Sarah Marsh MW and hosted by David Robert MW of Goedhuis & Co, afforded an opportunity to check in on the vintage’s evolution as they approach their ninth birthday.

The 2008 growing season did not get off to an auspicious start, with unseasonably cool temperatures and rain in June and July, followed by a cool, grey August. Hail on the border between Volnay and Meursault struck shortly after fruit set, reducing yields though it came too early in the year to appreciably impact quality. Rot and mildew pressure was high.

A sunny September, however, permitted growers to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, bringing the grapes to full maturity, while a constant north wind impeded the spread of rot and concentrated both sugar and acidity.

As a set, the wines showed well, meeting optimistic expectations. In the era of premature oxidation, opening twenty-two white Burgundies is inevitably a nerve-wracking exercise for consumers and producers alike, but only two wines were clearly advanced. The remainder were aging gracefully.

The influence of botrytis—which imparts musky, exotic top-notes to white Burgundy—didn’t really make itself felt, somewhat to my surprise. What’s more, the wines wore their high acidities well, generally revealing nice gloss and texture to balance their structural spines.

Many can be approached now but the best wines clearly show the potential to further gain complexity and plenitude with time in bottle.

Thanks to David and Sarah.

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William Kelley is a wine critic who specialises in Burgundy and the US. He became Decanter’s North America correspondent in 2015 and also reviewed the 2015/2016 Burgundy vintages.

In addition, he has contributed to other publications such as Noble Rot and he currently reviews Burgundy, California and Washington State wines for The Wine Advocate.

In 2016 and 2017 he was shortlisted for the Emerging Wine Writer of the Year Award.

White Burgundy 2008 revisited on their ninth birthday

White Burgundy 2008 tasting notes below

Patrick Javillier, Cuvée Les Clousots, Meursault, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Les Tessons, Meursault, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Clos de la Barre, Meursault, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Remi Jobard, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Ballot Millot, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Perrières, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Folatières, Burgundy, France, 2008

Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Pucelles, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, Burgundy, France, 2008

Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Morgeot, Burgundy, France, 2008