Bag in box
Bags on the bottling line of Cellier des Chartreux, Rhône.
(Image credit: Per Karlsson, BKWine 2 / Alamy Stock Photo)

When screwcap bottles were first introduced, there was much scepticism about the quality of wine within. Now, they’re universally accepted – championed, even. And the same is happening with wines in alternative formats.

The bag in box category has made great strides over the past few years, not only in terms of the quality of wine inside, but also in the manufacturing of the bags and boxes themselves. Technology has improved so wines stay fresh for longer, and the bags and taps can be recycled more easily.

Why we love bag in box

Convenience

The flexibility in being able to have just one glass and not worrying about a bottle spoiling should not be underestimated. They’re also portable and easy to share at dinners, events and while travelling.

Thoughtful drinking

Reduction of carbon emissions is front and centre in combating climate change, and in this sense the sustainability credentials of bag in box wines are hard to fault. According to a widely quoted study commissioned by Finnish state alcohol monopoly Alko (published in 2018), carbon equivalent emissions from the production of glass bottles are almost 10 times higher than those from bag in box. And, as 90% of wine’s carbon footprint comes from packaging and transport, this is a big deal. An open letter to the UK government in November 2022, submitted by the Wine Traders for Alternative Formats association and signed by key members of the UK wine trade, called for action to promote the switch from glass wine bottles to alternative packaging.

The recycling process for bag in box is also less energy-intensive, with the cardboard widely recycled and the plastic inners sent to specialist plants, broken down into oils and reused. Australian bag in box brand Hey Tomorrow has called it ‘Forward Drinking’.

Quality

Increased availability of premium wines in bag in box format has opened the floodgates, encouraging more of the top-tier producers to embrace the format, thereby providing drinkers with more variety and so creating growth in the sector.

With its lower carbon footprint, this really is one of the most sustainable ways to buy and consume wine for early drinking. Of course, glass bottles remain the only viable option for ageing and cellaring wine, but most wine is made and bought for immediate consumption.

Tasting verdict

We blind-tasted more than 70 bag in box wines to arrive at this selection – these are among the best quality and most interesting wines available in this format in the UK. This does seem to be reflected in the price, however. While there is one wine in the line-up that equates to about £4.75 per 75cl bottle, the average price per 75cl is just under £12.

The white wines generally performed better, reflected in the higher proportion of whites in the selection. The only orange wine in the tasting made the selection as it offered a gorgeous aromatic display – this natural wine is perfect for bag in box sharing, but I would say drink it within two weeks of opening. This is also one of two wines in a pouch, which is essentially a disrobed bag in box with an additional aluminium layer – better at preserving the wine, but slightly more difficult to recycle.

Although some say a bag in box will last six to eight weeks once opened, most should be consumed within three to four weeks, to ensure the wine remains as fresh as possible. As to how long the wine will last before opening, Laura Riches, co-founder of the Laylo brand, says ‘we work on the basis of them being consumed in nine to 12 months from creation’, whereas Ollie Lea, co-founder of The BIB Wine Co, says ‘we advise our customers to drink them within three months’.

This tasting was a real eye-opener. Yes, some 40% of the wines tasted did prove to be disappointingly commercial – the worst unbalanced, overly confected and one-dimensional – so drinkers need to do their research and choose wisely. But this selection clearly shows that great, premium wine does exist in this format.


Natalie Earl’s 26 bag in box wines to try


Château de Suronde, Carrément Blanc, Anjou, Loire, France, 2021

My wines

92

Upfront and inviting aromas of honeyed lemon, Golden Delicious apples, cooked pears and crab apples. This is a tangy and tasty Chenin Blanc with great varietal typicity, from a biodynamic estate. The finish is pithy and sinewy, with good green apple freshness and zippy acidity. A serious wine, even though the packaging is a little simple. Organic.

2021

LoireFrance

Château de SurondeAnjou

Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2020

My wines

92

Freshly squeezed lemon, lime and just-ripe pineapple aromas unfold onto a long and complex palate with great weight to the juicy fruit. There’s a certain richness but undeniable elegance here, it’s real proof of quality bag in box wine! Textural and chalky, with a mineral nip to the finish.

2020

LoireFrance

Domaine Reverdy-DucrouxSancerre

Cellier des Chartreux, Viognier, Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2021

My wines

91

Toasty, spiced peach and vanilla aromas reveal a bold, unrestrained Viognier, full of honeysuckle, jasmine and acacia characters. It’s full-bodied and oily, with notes of ripe melon, apricot and mandarin dunked in honey. A rich style that has a lick of spiciness and freshness on the finish.

2021

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Cellier des ChartreuxGard

Domäne Wachau, Prestige Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Niederösterreich, Austria, 2021

My wines

91

Subtle green apple and white blossom aromas lead onto an electric palate full of zesty energy. Piquant and super-refreshing. Lemon and lime zest, grapefruit pith, and a salty, mineral core. Lightly bitter sensation to the taut finish. A great pairing for smoked fish, crunchy fennel salads or goat’s cheese. Really serious stuff.

2021

NiederösterreichAustria

Domäne WachauWachau

Hey Tomorrow, Riesling-Grüner Veltliner by Lowboi, Mount Barker, Western Australia, Australia, 2022

My wines

91

Australian brand Hey Tomorrow is an exciting addition to the category, working with top-quality producers such as Porongurup-based Lowboi for this wine. Elegant and restrained blossom and jasmine aromas with a light minty lemon note, almost eucalyptus. Spritzy, zesty and fresh on the palate, with some delicate elderflower, apple and ginger. Lime cordial streaking through. Uplifting.

2022

Western AustraliaAustralia

Hey TomorrowMount Barker

Château de Jau, Le Jaja de Jau Blanc, Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest France, France, 2021

My wines

90

Classically intense Sauvignon Blanc lemon and freshly cut grass aromas with elegant wafts of smoke and flint. It’s tangy and mouthwatering. The zesty acidity elongates the mouth-puckering finish. I love the freshness here, it’s uplifting.

2021

Southwest FranceFrance

Château de JauCôtes de Gascogne

Domaine Batard Langelier, Muscadet, Loire, France

My wines

90

A fresh, floral and vibrant Muscadet with immediate green apple, lemon and blossom aromas, and a stony, succulent finish. Five litres might seem like a lot of wine to open and consume within a few weeks, but this will be an easygoing crowd-pleaser so it’s a great option to serve as an aperitif at your next dinner party. Organic principles.

LoireFrance

Domaine Batard LangelierMuscadet

Domaine Begude, Elegance Chardonnay, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2021

My wines

90

From the cool climes of Limoux comes this bright Chardonnay. Although it’s subdued on the nose, the palate shows a lovely purity of Chardonnay fruit with some well-handled use of oak. Bright lemon, apple and peach, underpinned by toasty richness, vanilla, custard apple, and a subtle creaminess. Full-flavoured, smooth and plump. Organic.

2021

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine BegudePays d'Oc

Hey Tomorrow, Blanc by Koerner Brothers, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2022

My wines

90

The Hey Tomorrow brand's blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Savagnin and Vermentino from the Koerner Brothers – mostly from the Adelaide Hills, some from the Clare Valley. Exuberant aromas of cooked peaches, pears, buttercream and vanilla, with a subtle minty lemon-balm note. Full-bodied and quite savoury, with a long spicy finish.

2022

South AustraliaAustralia

Hey TomorrowAdelaide Hills

Laylo, Lot #11 Grüner Veltliner, Burgenland, Austria, 2021

My wines

89

Delicate, pretty aromas of spring blossom and pear, with a more citrus-laden palate. A streak of slatey minerality runs through it. It’s tactile in the mouth, refined in texture and palate presence. Not overly complex, but fresh. A light creaminess hints at lees or old oak. Made by Rob Krammer of Esterházy winery.

2021

BurgenlandAustria

Laylo

Marina Palusci, Yellow Max, Abruzzo, Italy, 2020

My wines

89

With its oxidative, savoury characters, this will be an unusual style for some. Blending Trebbiano with Pecorino and Passerina: floral and lightly nutty aromas, with some bruised apple and cashew butter intrigue. Tangy pear and almond on the palate, in a more natural style. It’s light-bodied and surprisingly easy to drink. Winemaker Massimiliano d’Addario is known for his minimal intervention approach. Organic.

2020

AbruzzoItaly

Marina Palusci

Vignerons Ardéchois, Orélie, Ardèche, Rhône, France, 2021

My wines

89

Blending Sauvignon Blanc (80%) with Chardonnay has created this citrussy, lemon rind and grapefruit character with some melon and peach ripeness. Zesty green apple acidity permeates the palate, alongside some smashed rock minerality and a mouthwatering finish. An easygoing, everyday pick-me-up.

2021

RhôneFrance

Vignerons ArdéchoisArdèche

Art of Wine, The Great Wave Sauvignon Blanc, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2021

My wines

88

Intense ripe-fruit aromas, with a whack of mango, passion fruit and overripe melon. There’s a bit of candied peel here too, which is unexpected, and an interplay between green, grassy characters and that ripe tropical fruit. It’s a little blowsy, but has good intensity and a fresh, dry finish.

2021

Aconcagua ValleyChile

Art of Wine

Maree d'Ione, Organic Chardonnay, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2021

My wines

88

Rich and sumptuous aromas of cooked peaches, honey and tropical fruit. Viscous and full-bodied, with good mid-palate presence. There’s some spice, vanilla and ripe nectarine fruit, which falls away fairly quickly. Organic.

2021

SicilyItaly

Maree d'IoneTerre Siciliane

Morasinsi, Bianco, Puglia, Italy, 2021

My wines

91

Deep sunshine yellow, and cloudy. Powerful aromas of nectarine, apricot, orange blossom, apricot yogurt and rose petals. The palate is zesty, wild, with a creamy, full texture. Full of freshly squeezed oranges and sunshine. Bold, vibrant and delicious, but not for the faint-hearted. Moscato and the local Pampanuto grape macerated for three weeks on skins and made by Morasinsi for WeinoBIB. Consume within two weeks of opening.

2021

PugliaItaly

Morasinsi

Domaine of the Bee, Bee Pink, Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2021

My wines

92

Crushed strawberry, peach and almond skin aromas. Tart cranberry and ground almond on the palate, with a grapefruit pith texture, juicy and direct. I really like this Grenache-based blend: it’s got the delicacy of a fine white, but a little more texture and red cranberry profile. White peach, citrus and a little mineral bite. Chewy and toothsome.

2021

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

Domaine of the BeeCôtes Catalanes

Le Grappin, Rosé Du Grappin Cinsault, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France

My wines

89

A bright and tangy rosé that’s easy to enjoy, its grapefruit and tart cherry flavours complemented by a soft creaminess and red apple skin bite.

RhôneFrance

Le GrappinCôtes du Rhône

Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux, Sancerre Rouge, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2019

My wines

93

Intense, complex aromas that cover the whole gamut of red and black fruit. Bright red berries and crushed raspberries, through to black cherries and blackberries. This 100% Pinot Noir impresses with its svelte, tart cherry fruit, rich dark chocolate and crushed hazelnuts. With its meaty, animal profile, it’s not all about primary fruit. This is a great wine, regardless of its bag in box status, and comes in at under £20 per 75cl bottle.

2019

LoireFrance

Domaine Reverdy-DucrouxSancerre

St John, Cabernet-Syrah, St-Guilhem-le-Désert, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2020

My wines

92

Gorgeous, sumptuous black cherry fruit aromas. In the mouth it’s juicy and so moreish, enticing sip after sip with its bags of squished raspberries and wild strawberries dusted with dried rosemary. Delicious and great value for money. Made by Jean-Benoît Cavalier of Château de Lascaux for London’s St John restaurant, but available at retail too.

2020

Languedoc-RoussillonFrance

St JohnSt-Guilhem-le-Désert

Château Couronneau, Cuvée Clair de Lune, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France, 2020

My wines

91

One for the Merlot lovers out there. This ripe, juicy Bordeaux-in-box has lovely blueberry and black cherry characters and deep plum tones, supported by well-handled oak spice and some vanilla and mocha depth. It’s full-bodied with bold but fine-grained tannins, making it a go-to for roasted meat or root vegetable dishes. Biodynamic.

2020

BordeauxFrance

Château CouronneauBordeaux Supérieur

Michael Opitz, Buddy Talk, Burgenland, Austria, 2019

My wines

91

A blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and PIWI (fungus-resistant) variety Roesler, this is smoky and fruity, the soft black plum characters wrapped around a mineral core. Some earthy, dried herb qualities, with fine-grained tannins and a juicy finish. Its succulence encourages repeat sips! Organic.

2019

BurgenlandAustria

Michael Opitz

Château de Minière, Carrément Rouge, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2021

My wines

90

Intense, brooding aromas that bring to mind charcuterie and dried herbs, roasted meat and charred cherries. A tasty, well-made Cabernet Franc with a tangy, juicy palate and silky, fine tannins. Organic.

2021

LoireFrance

Château de MinièreBourgueil

Quinta da Pedra Alta, Flor da Pedra Alta, Vinho de Mesa, Portugal, 2019

My wines

90

Not hugely expressive at first, but the palate is bold and serious. Tart, juicy cherries layered on top of graphite-tinged blackberries. Oak use has lent char and toast to the generous fruit. A blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Touriga Nacional.

2019

Vinho de MesaPortugal

Quinta da Pedra Alta

Cellier des Chartreux, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2020

My wines

89

Open and inviting aromas of ripe red and black cherries, blackberries, plums, and wild rosemary and thyme. Juicy and fragrant with cleansing acidity, perhaps a little milky and sweetly fruited, but it’s enjoyable and drinkable. Grenache-Syrah with a little Carignan.

2020

RhôneFrance

Cellier des ChartreuxCôtes du Rhône

Domaine Bousquet, Natural Origins Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, Uco Valley, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina, 2021

My wines

88

Deep and inky aromas, fairly undefined. Tasty and juicy in the mouth though, with plump plums and blackberries, fine tannins and decent length. Lacks a little acidity but there's adequate spiciness to keep it together. Organic. 3L.

2021

MendozaArgentina

Domaine BousquetUco Valley

Valdibella, Frappato, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2020

My wines

88

From Sicilian cooperative Valdibella comes this organic Frappato that’s bursting with tart cherry and cranberry fruit. It’s fairly structured, with grippy tannins and mouthwatering acidity, with a slightly wild and tangy charm. Fresh, vibrant and juicy. Organic.

2020

SicilyItaly

ValdibellaTerre Siciliane

Natalie Earl
Regional Editor for France & Sustainability Editor

Natalie is Decanter's France editor, commissioning and writing content on French wines (excluding Bordeaux) across print and digital. She writes Decanter's coverage of Languedoc wines, as well as a monthly magazine column, The Ethical Drinker, which unpicks the thorny topic of sustainability in wine. She joined Decanter in 2016.