Anderson Valley Pinot Noir: A look at the 2021 vintage

In the northern reaches of California wine country, nestled between the coastal redwoods, and the native inland oak trees of Mendocino County, from Boonville to Navarro lies Anderson Valley, where cool climate Pinot Noir can be exceptional.

While wine was grown in the Anderson Valley in the late 19th century, the real beginnings of the region’s modern era of fine wine began in the 1960s. In 1963, Dr Donald Edmeades, a cardiologist, planted Zinfandel vines outside the town of Philo.

In 1967, Tony and Gretchen Husch bought the 60-acre Nunn ranch and planted vines soon after, creating Husch Vineyards in the process.

Despite Edmeade’s decision to plant Zinfandel, the region’s early output was otherwise focused on white grapes, predominantly Gewürtztraminer.

But even in those early Anderson Valley plantings, such as those at Husch, there was Pinot Noir and by the 1970s its acreage was growing.

Scroll down for the top-scoring Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs of the 2021 vintage

Taking notice

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir has California’s top winemakers and sommeliers taking notice these days. In 1982 Pinot Noir made up only 8% of the plantings in the Anderson Valley, by 2018, it had grown to just about 70%.

One of the most respected names in Pinot Noir around the world is Ted Lemon, who has his famed Littorai label on the Sonoma Coast. Lemon’s faith in the Anderson Valley dates to the early 1990s, when he began sourcing fruit and acquired vineyard land in the region.

Various Anderson Valley vineyards account for almost half of his Pinot Noir bottlings. In addition, names like Cobb, Peay and Williams Selyem have long been spreading the word about what this region can achieve.

Anderson Valley at a glance

AVA Established: 1983

Original Vines: Dr Donald Edmeades planted Zinfandel outside the town of Philo in 1963

Vineyards in the AVA: 90 (average size is 6ha)

Wineries in the AVA: 30 (More than 60 wineries make an Anderson Valley bottling)

Total hectares planted to vines: 1,010ha

Soils: There are more than 15 different soil types throughout the region, the most predominant soils in the Valley are Bearwallow (loam/sandstone), Boontling (loam), Zeni (loam/sandstone), Wolfey (loam/sandstone), Cole (clay loam) and Pinoli (gravelly loam).

Key wine varieties: Pinot Noir (69%), Chardonnay (21%), Gewürtztraminer (4%)

The 2021 growing season

Late winter and early spring were dynamic in the Anderson Valley. Drought conditions came on early, and water restrictions were already in place throughout Mendocino County by the month of May.

There was some rain and a couple of frost events, with frost fans activated throughout the valley in late May.

‘It was a kind of easy spring to get excited about if you wanted to just be outside,’ says Anderson Valley winemaker Phil Baxter. ‘We had some good rainfall to start the winter in January, and after that, it was almost too pleasant. The rainfall didn’t continue. It turned into a drought year pretty quickly.’

‘It was a beautiful spring,’ Baxter recalls. ‘But it wasn’t great for the vines to not have that groundwater. So, it did two things: it put us all on edge a bit because we don’t want to irrigate if we don’t have to, and the vines really felt it and didn’t produce much fruit.’

In spite of the dry conditions, temperatures were largely moderate, near constant, owing to the central air conditioning of the Anderson Valley, otherwise known as the Pacific Ocean.

Cooler-than-average temperatures arrived in August, and throughout the growing season, nighttime temperatures were cool, preserving freshness and acidity in the grapes and keeping sugar levels under control.

Of the wines I tasted, the best seemed to find a sweet spot in the mid-13% range for alcohol.

2021 Pinot Noir in the Anderson Valley: 5/5

After a particularly challenging 2020, the region’s growers and winemakers were rewarded with a vintage of outstanding quality and excellent fruit concentration, but yields were down as much as 35%.

Meagre winter precipitation, a warm spring, and overall moderate summer temperatures resulted in an early harvest beginning the second week of August. Post covid realities resulted in lingering difficulty.

Through it all, the Pinot Noirs show concentration and intensity of fruit that balances wonderfully with the region’s forest-driven elements and ocean bourne minerality. The top producers have crafted wines of elegance that are approachable now but with plenty of ageability to offer.

A small valley with ample diversity

The Anderson Valley runs north to south, approximately one mile wide and 15 miles long. The region’s defining features are the north and south forks of the Navarro River. The river’s various tributaries cut slopes into the mountains on the east and western sides that flank the valley floor.

The valley floor undulates between 300 and 500 feet, with ridge tops reaching 2,500 feet in elevation.

The maritime influence is what makes the Anderson Valley a Pinot Noir sweet spot. A consistently cooler north end towards the mouth of the Navarro River, while the inland reaches warm up during the day to be cooled down at night from the nearby Pacific, less than 10 miles away.

‘Even though the region is small, there is a lot of variety within Anderson Valley,’ says Brad Jonas, one of the winemakers at Minus Tide. ‘The number of total degree days (general heat accumulation) on the furthest northwest sites, which we call the Deep End towards the coast, is significantly less than the warmer parts of the appellation near Boonville. The fruit ripens markedly later there.’

‘In addition,’ Jonas continues, ‘many of the hillside vineyards have much warmer nights and typically cooler daytime temperatures. Combine that with a range of different soil types, and you get many different expressions of Pinot Noir from all over the appellation.’

Rolling in the Deep End

The north end of the Anderson Valley, where the Navarro River heads towards the Pacific, creates a channel for that maritime fog to encroach on the valley. Locals know it as The Deep End. Many of the top wines tasted come from vineyards in this unofficial northern sub-region

‘My sourcing for Read Holland,’ says winemaker Ashley Holland, ‘focuses on the Deep End. The Northwest portion of the valley is where the last few quilts of vineyards meet the Redwoods that line the route of the Navarro River headed towards the Pacific.

‘This area of the Anderson Valley is often 7-10° cooler due to its proximity to the Pacific and how it interacts with the valley’s orientation. The dense Pacific fog settles into this deep cut of coastal ridges.’

Holland continues: ‘For me, the wines from this part of Anderson Valley have so much character and intrigue. They’re a nice departure from some of the power and opulence that California offers. The wines are unabashedly California with a pure fruit core while holding tannic tension. Making them prime for ageing.

‘It’s all about fir tips, and bergamot tea, Rooibos, blood orange, and a kind of saline, umami minerality, think of seaweed. The Deep End wines call your attention and remind me why so many become smitten with Pinot Noir.’

Click here for notes and scores of all Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs tasted from the 2021 vintage

Anderson Valley 2021 Pinot Noir: top 10 wines of the vintage:

Bravium, Wiley Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Cobb, Wendling Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Foursight, Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir, Clone 5, 95pts

Littorai, One Acre Pinot Noir, 95pts

Minus Tide, Hacienda Sequoia Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Pangloss, Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Read Holland, Deep End Pinot Noir, 95pts

Waits-Mast Family Cellars, Nash Mill Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Wentworth, Nash Mill Vineyard Pinot Noir, 95pts

Baxter, Langley Vineyard Pinot Noir, 94pts

Anderson Valley 2021 Pinot Noir: 25 of the best

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