ANFITEATRO-CORDERO-Barbaresco-2019
Credit: Consorzio Albeisa
(Image credit: Consorzio Albeisa)

More elegant and less powerful in style, Barbaresco suffered much more in the lean 2018 vintage than Barolo. The hail and downy mildew, for those who were affected by it, further complicated things. In 2019, patchy hail was present again. Angelo Gaja, for instance, did not produce his estate’s top selections, Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildin. Although Angelo was not convinced, his sons persuaded him to blend the Sorì into the Barbaresco.


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2019 wines


Barbaresco 2019

The vines sailed through a long, warm growing season with no damage from frost or hail. Hot spells in June and July were followed by a near-perfect harvest. Concentrated, complex wines.

4/5

Extremes

‘The growing season was characterised by extremes,’ said Enrico Delmondo, representative for the Consorzio Albeisa during a presentation of the 2019 vintage at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba.

‘2019 was weird. After a super-dry winter with just three episodes of rainfall in three months and temperatures excessively over average, April and May worked against the trend with cooler temperatures and abundant rainfall. The 15th of May fell to a record low of 0°C, which was exceptionally cold.’

In June, Barbaresco experience a heatwave for four days, peaking at over 40°C. This was repeated at the beginning of July. The heatwaves were, however, mitigated by the water reserves from the previous months.

September was dry, with high diurnal temperature variations between night and day. Some vineyards were affected by two storms which hit early in the month, in some localities including hail.

All in all, 2019 was an exceptionally challenging vintage – almost heroic. There are, however, several reasons to consider it fairly successful.

With the warm winter, Nebbiolo bud-burst occurred very early, around 5 March. The constant flux between warm and cool temperatures combined with a regular September extended the growing season to a total of 200 days, while the mid-May frost reduced yields by 5 to 10%.

According to Delmondo, the musts showed higher acidity compared to the 2018 vintage.

Although we are yet to taste the finished Barolo 2019s, it’s likely that the Barbaresco 2019s could end up being more concentrated thanks to the fact that Barbaresco is typically more exposed to Mediterranean winds. These were exceptionally strong in 2019 where, in Roero for example, vines were bent over. Meanwhile, Barolo, is sheltered by the La Morra and Monforte ridges. In combination with the high temperatures in 2019, these winds helped to concentrate the grapes by acting as a drying agent.

This concentration seems to be a breath of fresh air after the light 2018 vintage. Such vintages allow for a deeper look at the varied terroir profiles within Barbaresco: the elegance of MGAs such as Asili are complemented by more concentration, while cooler expressions such as Ovello – often too austere in the leaner vintages – shine with a refined structure for ageing.

Thus in the end, the wines show good acidity, an outstanding ripeness of tannins and overall complexity, expressing the minerality that is accredited to a longer growing season.


Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2019 recommendations:

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa


A drink with… Dave Fletcher

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Massolino, Albesani, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Massolino manages 0.6 hectares in the Albesani MGA within Neive village. The 2019 is the first Barbaresco released by the Serralunga-based estate. Albesani is a...

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Carlo Giacosa, Asili, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Maria Grazia Giacosa today runs this 5ha estate with her son, Luca. The filigreed elegance of Asili is almost always enhanced by the respectful winemaking...

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Bruno Rocca, Rabajà, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Forget the over-extractions of the past decades; Rabajà from Bruno Rocca is today aged in both barrique and oak vessels, resulting in power and grace...

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Ca' del Baio, Asili, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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This Asili from Ca' del Baio is an intoxicating Barbaresco. The elegance of the MGA becomes the flow of aromas: savoury rhubarb, thyme and dried...

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Bruno Rocca, Currà, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Currà is for Bruno Rocca a Barbaresco of delicacy and elegance. The nose is focused on sweet spice and sophisticated Parma violet. The fruit is...

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Rizzi, Pajorè, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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A wine completely focused on floral characters such as rose and violet, enhanced by rhubarb and dried cherry. The tight palate with filigreed structure is...

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Ceretto, Asili, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The 2019 Asili sports refined aromas of kirsch, cola and balsam herbs that mingle with darker nuances of scorched earth. It's both deep and vibrant,...

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Giuseppe Cortese, Rabajà, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Giuseppe Cortese owns four hectares in Rabajà, planted 50 years ago and Guyot trained. The soil is rich in limestone and clay. Concrete fermenters were...

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Albino Rocca, Cottà, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Despite the slight rusticity on the finish, this is another gem from Albino Rocca. Cottà is an MGA from Neive on mostly limestone soil with...

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Carlo Giacosa, Montefico, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The talented young Luca Giacosa is managing his top crus within Barbaresco admirably. The east to southeast exposure of Montefico, an enclave in the southernmost...

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Pietro Rinaldi, San Cristoforo, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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San Cristoforo is a complex hill within Neive village. Pietro Rinaldi manages a southeast facing vineyard here - his boutique winery is focused on traditional...

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Carlo Giacosa, Ovello, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The long growing season in 2019 seems to have assisted the phenolic ripeness of the grapes from Ovello, one of the more austere MGAs of...

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Bera, Serraboella, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Bera is an authentic estate on the hills following the road from Neive to Neviglie. The altitude is relatively high - between 320 and 380...

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Cascina Luisin, Rabajà, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Rabajà stands out in the 2019 vintage. Here, it gives an intense Barbaresco full of floral rose, dried cherry and rhubarb, sweetened with cinnamon spice....

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Cascina Morassino, Ovello, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The greater concentration of the 2019 vintage compared to 2018 provides a better balance to the cool and austere Ovello cru. Roberto Bianco ages his...

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Ceretto, Barbaresco Bernadot, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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From a vineyard lying at 450 metres above sea level in the township of Treiso, the 2019 Bernadot offers restrained aromas of tart blackberries, grilled...

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Cascina Luisin, Asili, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The vines managed by Cascina Luisin here are 65 years old. The yields are pretty low and the handling is very classic, with 40 days...

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Bruno Rocca, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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An open-knit Barbaresco focused on spices, dried cherry and smoky woodland notes, with a subdued floral character. Savoury and delicious to drink, it's neither light...

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Castello di Neive, Albesani Vigna Santo Stefano, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The combination of the clay-rich soil in the lower part of Vigna Santo Stefano in the Albesani MGA seems to have enhanced the density and...

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Massolino, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Ripe juicy upfront nose, wild strawberry and licorice. Vibrancy in the mouth with freshness of sour red cherries and crisp acidity. A great example of...

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Luigi Giordano, Asili, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Laura and Silvia Giordano, Luigi's daughters, are managing the estate today. Respectful winemaking is their signature, with lighter extraction and Slavonian oak for ageing. Very...

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Mura Mura, Starderi, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The Starderi cru rises on the side of the ridge where the eponymous hamlet is located. Mura Mura's vineyard here faces southwest over a clay-loam...

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Albino Rocca, Ronchi, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The easterly exposure of Ronchi, an MGA within the village of Barbaresco, is either loved or hated. The fresher side of the hill enhances the...

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Negro Giuseppe, Gallina, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Fermentation and maceration in stainless steel tanks for two weeks at controlled temperature followed by malolactic fermentation in tonneaux and ageing for 24 months in...

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Paitin, Serraboella, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Paitin is a very traditional estate where the winemaking is focused on submerged-cap maceration of one month and ageing in big Slavonian as well as...

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Bel Colle, Pajorè, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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This Barbaresco comes from 41 hectares in the Pajoré MGA in Treiso. The handling is pretty classic, included the use of half Slavonian oak and...

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Enrico Serafino, Bricco di Neive, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Bricco di Neive presents a southwest exposure with 40-year-old vines over a clay-limestone soil. The fruit character is enhanced by a cold soak for a...

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Ceretto, Gallina, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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The second release from this highly regarded cru in Neive, the 2019 Gallina unveils alluring scents of sweet cherries and rose petals framed by a...

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Antichi Poderi dei Gallina, Gallina, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Antichi Poderi dei Gallina is a small estate with hospitality in Neive. This is a barrel sample of its Gallina MGA. Intense floral aromas are...

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Massimo Rattalino, Quarantadue, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Quarantadue is a blend of different vineyards in Barbaresco. The assertive, citrussy character with layers of pomegranate and watermelon show the elegant and tight profile...

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Michele Chiarlo, Faset, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Chiarlo's steep vineyard lies within Faset in the central and higher part of the MGA in a sort of wedge with Pora. It's one of...

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Col dei Venti, Tùfoblu, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Col dei Venti is a small estate managed with passion by Ornella Cordara. Tùfoblu comes from southwest-facing vineyards in Neive, aged for 24 months in...

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Castello di Verduno, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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A Barbaresco full of assertive character, this is youthful and almost estery on the nose, focused on red berries with a veneer of sweet spices....

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Fratelli Giacosa, Basarin, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Basarin is a well exposed, south-facing slope in Neive where Fratelli Giacosa manage 4.5 hectares of Nebbiolo and 0.5ha of Dolcetto. After a long maceration...

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Bera, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Light cherry compote and floral nose. Good ripeness with pomegranate and orange, juicy, light yet dusty and crunchy.

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Alessandro Rivetto, Montersino, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2019

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Montersino is one of the southernmost MGAs of Treiso. After a cold soak of two days, Alessandro Rivetto ferments the must in stainless steel with...

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Aldo Fiordelli
Decanter Magazine, Italian Expert and DWWA Judge

Aldo Fiordelli is an Italian wine critic, journalist and wine writer.  He has published four books about food, wine and art and is a regular Decanter contributor.

In Italy he is an editorial board member of L’Espresso restaurant and wine guide (one of Italy’s most prominent) since 2004.  He also writes for Corriere della sera in Florence, as well as Civiltà del Bere (Italy’s oldest Italian wine magazine).

A certified sommelier since 2003, he is currently a 2nd stage student at the Institute of the Masters of Wine.

In 2017 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.

Aldo joined DWWA for the first time as a judge in 2019.