Barolo Riserva 2012
The farmhouse of Franco Conterno overlooking Monforte d'Alba.
(Image credit: francoconterno.it)

Stephen Brook takes a look at the latest vintage of Barolo Riserva to be released. Read on for tasting notes and scores...

Barolo Riserva 2012

Sunburn and hail were just some of the problems this year, and growers had to respond adroitly in the vineyards. Some fine wines, but others are soft and forward.

4/5

2012 was an inconsistent vintage, complicated by a cool and rainy spring, sporadic summer hailstorms, and rainfall in late August and early September.

Variable weather in the spring had led to an uneven flowering, which complicated the vintage and required growers to be vigilant and attentive in the vineyard. There were periods of intense heat, and there were reports of sunburn in some exposed vineyards.



Barolo Riserva ageing

An assortment of Slavonian and French oak barrels & barriques for ageing Barolo Riserva.
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Hail did the greatest damage in La Morra and Barolo, however the naturally thick Nebbiolo skins allowed many of the bunches to emerge unscathed.

Overall quality was good but not exceptional, and the grapes reached proper ripeness after improving weather in September. The wines are generally juicy and accessible, although growers that didn’t harvest the uneven crop scrupulously may have picked some bunches with aggressive tannins.

Although it wasn’t a vintage that would seem to result in a profusion of Riservas, the decision to produce one is often based on localised factors, and there are certainly some excellent results. Tastings of regular Barolos from this vintage in 2018 suggested the wines were evolving quite fast, but Riservas are of course in a different category, with intrinsically more weight and density.


Stephen’s pick of Barolo Riserva 2012

Back to Piedmont new releases: Full report

Rivetto, Leon, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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The restless Enrico Rivetto is constantly innovating, but Leon is a traditional Barolo that's given long ageing in casks and older barriques. The nose is...

2012

PiedmontItaly

RivettoBarolo

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Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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This highly traditional Riserva, from the steep central sector of the Bricco Boschis site, always delivers. The cherry-scented nose is subdued and inexpressive currently, but...

2012

PiedmontItaly

CavallottoBarolo

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Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia 90 Di Riserva, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Carlo Fenocchio favours long fermentations and prolonged ageing in casks for his traditional Barolos. This Riserva is named after the process of submerging the cap...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Giacomo FenocchioBarolo

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Elio Altare, Cerretta Vigna Bricco, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Technically this is a Riserva, because of its long additional ageing in bottle before release, though it's not labelled as such. Altare, a renowned La...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Elio AltareBarolo

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Silvano Bolmida, Bussia, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Silvano Bolmida favours very low yields, prolonged fermentations and ageing in small, mostly older barrels. The nose is sweet, intense and smoky, with just a...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Silvano BolmidaBarolo

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Castello di Verduno, Monvigliero, Barolo, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Winemaker Mario Andrion regularly conjures superb wine from this 0.3ha parcel in Verduno. The intense raspberry-scented nose delivers purity of fruit and a light smokiness....

2012

PiedmontItaly

Castello di VerdunoBarolo

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Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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The Borgogno family are particularly attached to their vineyards in Cannubi,the source of this Riserva. The cherry-scented nose is lush yet quite evolved, with some...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Fratelli Serio & Battista BorgognoBarolo

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Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Carretta are based in the Roero, but also produce Barolo from the Cannubi cru. This Riserva has a sweet cherry and marzipan nose that's elegant...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Tenuta CarrettaBarolo

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Anselma, Felice Anselma, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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From this small 3ha property in Serralunga, Franco Anselma sometimes makes two Riservas. This bottling - a blending of two crus - is highly individual,...

2012

PiedmontItaly

AnselmaBarolo

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Aurelio Settimo, Rocche dell'Annunziata, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

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Settimo's best wines usually come from Rocche dell'Annunziata in La Morra, and in some years they also produce a Riserva, aged in large casks. This...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Aurelio SettimoBarolo

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Rivetto, Leon, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

The restless Enrico Rivetto is constantly innovating, but Leon is a traditional Barolo that's given long ageing in casks and older barriques. The nose is...

2012

PiedmontItaly

RivettoBarolo

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Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

This highly traditional Riserva, from the steep central sector of the Bricco Boschis site, always delivers. The cherry-scented nose is subdued and inexpressive currently, but...

2012

PiedmontItaly

CavallottoBarolo

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Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia 90 Di Riserva, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Carlo Fenocchio favours long fermentations and prolonged ageing in casks for his traditional Barolos. This Riserva is named after the process of submerging the cap...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Giacomo FenocchioBarolo

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Elio Altare, Cerretta Vigna Bricco, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Technically this is a Riserva, because of its long additional ageing in bottle before release, though it's not labelled as such. Altare, a renowned La...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Elio AltareBarolo

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Silvano Bolmida, Bussia, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Silvano Bolmida favours very low yields, prolonged fermentations and ageing in small, mostly older barrels. The nose is sweet, intense and smoky, with just a...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Silvano BolmidaBarolo

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Castello di Verduno, Monvigliero, Barolo, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Winemaker Mario Andrion regularly conjures superb wine from this 0.3ha parcel in Verduno. The intense raspberry-scented nose delivers purity of fruit and a light smokiness....

2012

PiedmontItaly

Castello di VerdunoBarolo

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Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

The Borgogno family are particularly attached to their vineyards in Cannubi,the source of this Riserva. The cherry-scented nose is lush yet quite evolved, with some...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Fratelli Serio & Battista BorgognoBarolo

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Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Carretta are based in the Roero, but also produce Barolo from the Cannubi cru. This Riserva has a sweet cherry and marzipan nose that's elegant...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Tenuta CarrettaBarolo

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Anselma, Felice Anselma, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

From this small 3ha property in Serralunga, Franco Anselma sometimes makes two Riservas. This bottling - a blending of two crus - is highly individual,...

2012

PiedmontItaly

AnselmaBarolo

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Aurelio Settimo, Rocche dell'Annunziata, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2012

My wines
Locked score

Settimo's best wines usually come from Rocche dell'Annunziata in La Morra, and in some years they also produce a Riserva, aged in large casks. This...

2012

PiedmontItaly

Aurelio SettimoBarolo

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Stephen Brook

Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its third edition, and The Wines of California, which won three awards. His most recently published book is The Wines of Austria. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, and he writes for magazines in many countries.