Best Burgundy premier cru wines from 2017
Even many of the best premiers crus can be swamped by the near-100-point scores of the grands crus. So below, we've highlighted the top premier cru wines tasted by Tim Atkin MW recently for our Burgundy 2017 en primeur report...
It won’t be too much of a surprise to see that most of our top-scoring Burgundy 2017 wines are from grand cru vineyards.
As many readers will know, however, relatively small volumes have combined with growing global demand to make a lot of grand cru Burgundy wines extremely difficult to acquire. If you can find them, they’re naturally expensive.
At the time of writing, Hedonsim in Mayfair had a bottle of Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2015 listed at £864. And that’s not even the top-end of grand cru prices.
When it comes to en primeur, merchants naturally handle Burgundy grand cru allocations carefully and their job has become as much about diplomacy as selling in some cases, especially following a run of small harvests. It’s common for wines to get snapped up prior to general en primeur release offers.
Even though a larger 2017 Burgundy crop might curb price momentum in 2019 on the secondary market, no one is expecting a significant reversal of the trends outlined above.
See all Burgundy 2017 en primeur tasting notes & scores
Buying smart
So if you’re serious about your Burgundy but are looking for a smarter way to buy, we have highlighted the best Burgundy premier cru wines from the 2017 vintage, as rated for Decanter Premium subscribers by Tim Atkin MW.
Although prices have yet to be released, names like Raveneau, Rousseau, Roumier and Roulot are never going to be pocket-money cheap; but you may have more joy here than searching for their grands crus.
Tips
Finding the right producer for you
At this level, the name of the producer holds as much weight – if not more – than the terroir, although of course it’s always sensible to be as informed as possible about both.
It’s important to find a producer with a stylistic approach that you enjoy.
Allocations: Playing the long game
Generally speaking, the more you buy, the more likely merchants are to keep you in mind for allocations.
You have a better chance of rising up merchants’ lists if you’re a proven buyer. That doesn’t just mean buying all the premier cru – or even grand cru – level wines, but also good village-level wines, too.
Introduction editing by Chris Mercer.
The best Burgundy premier cru wines from 2017:
You might also like:
Best Burgundy 2017: Top scoring wines
Burgundy 2017: Full en primeur report
Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaillons, Burgundy, France, 2017
Vaillons Vaillons, as the core of this large premier cru is known, supplies the majority of this cuvée. It's an incredible wine, with the classic...
2017
Domaine François RaveneauChablis
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2017
Charmes wasn't hit by the frost in 2016, so volumes were actually down a little in 2017, but Dominique Lafon is more than happy with...
2017
Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrières, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Roulots' 0.26ha parcel is entirely located in Perrières Dessous, so is better positioned than their Charmes. This is a correspondingly superb wine, right up...
2017
Domaine RoulotMeursault
Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Grande Montagne, Burgundy, France, 2017
It's not easy to choose one, so impressive is the range, but this is my favourite of Thierry Pillot's premier cru Chassagne whites this year....
2017
Domaine Paul PillotChassagne-Montrachet
Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, 1er Cru Forêts, Burgundy, France, 2017
Now reduced to 3.7ha since 0.8ha were given to his nephew, Vincent Dauvissat's 12 parcels of Forest (his spelling) are still producing a spellbinding wine....
2017
Vincent DauvissatChablis
Samuel Billaud, Chablis, 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Burgundy, France, 2017
Two parcels - one in Chapelot, the other in Montée de Tonnerre - are the sources of this delicious, ageworthy premier cru. Yields were low,...
2017
Samuel BillaudChablis
Samuel Billaud, Chablis, 1er Cru Séchet, Burgundy, France, 2017
Not many people have vines in Séchet, but they all make excellent wines - and none more so than Samuel Billaud. Iodine and oyster shell...
2017
Samuel BillaudChablis
Domaine Laroche, Chablis, 1er Cru Les Vaucoupins, Burgundy, France, 2017
Made with a 1ha selection of purchased grapes sourced from a vineyard planted in 1955 on very stony soils, this is typical of the best...
2017
Domaine LarocheChablis
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaulorent, Burgundy, France, 2017
Now made separately from Fèvre's Fourchaume bottling - it's technically part of the same large premier cru - this has the structure and complexity of...
2017
Domaine William FèvreChablis
Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères, Burgundy, France, 2017
From the 0.50-hectare monopole acquired in 2010 from the estate of René Manuel. Despite the 260m altitude, the old vines ripen early and are among...
2017
Domaine RoulotMeursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2017
Dominique Lafon uses only 20% new wood on his Genevrières to preserve its finesse. Nettley, tangy and grapefruity, it's another precise, chiselled white from this...
2017
Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2017
Not well located,' jokes Jean-Marc Roulot, 'because we're in Charmes Dessous.' He's made a rather impressive wine in the circumstances, with smoky, savoury, complex flavours,...
2017
Domaine RoulotMeursault
Domaine François Mikulski, Vieilles Vignes, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2017
As the name suggests, these vines are certainly old as they were planted in 1913. Yields are correspondingly low for this remarkable wine, at 28hl/ha....
2017
Domaine François MikulskiMeursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrières, Burgundy, France, 2017
This 0.7ha block of old vines is often among the first to be picked at the Comtes Lafon, which meant an August start in 2017....
2017
Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Porusots, Burgundy, France, 2017
I picked this last, but you wouldn't believe it, because it's still very acidic', says Dominique Lafon of this 1ha parcel. Zesty, taut and refined,...
2017
Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Romanée, Burgundy, France, 2017
Planted by Thierry Pillot's grandfather, these are some of the oldest vines at the domaine and often seem to produce a particularly rich, complex wine...
2017
Domaine Paul PillotChassagne-Montrachet
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Caillerets, Burgundy, France, 2017
There's not much of this tiny cuvée to go round, sourced as it is from a 0.179ha sliver in the highest part of this premier...
2017
Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Caillerets, Burgundy, France, 2017
Is Caillerets the best white premier cru in Chassagne? It would certainly be in with a shout. There's nothing out of place on this refined,...
2017
Domaine Jean-Noël GagnardChassagne-Montrachet
Benjamin Leroux, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Tête du Clos, Burgundy, France, 2017
Tête du Clos may be part of Morgeot, but in some senses it has more in common with neighbouring La Romanée as it's in the...
2017
Benjamin LerouxChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Folatières, Burgundy, France, 2017
If you like the sort of struck-match notes that are often associated with top white Burgundies, this pithy, stony premier cru from the higher part...
2017
Domaine LeflaivePuligny-Montrachet
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Garenne, Burgundy, France, 2017
A site like La Garenne, close to the hamlet of Blagny in the hills above Puligny-Montrachet, was almost made for Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, such is its...
2017
Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Combettes, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Leflaive's 0.73ha of vines in Combettes were planted in 1960 and 1972, and consistently produce very small, intensely flavoured berries. And this is intense...
2017
Domaine LeflaivePuligny-Montrachet
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, St-Aubin, 1er Cru En Remilly, Burgundy, France, 2017
One of my favourite St-Aubin whites, this has wonderful intensity, precision and sizzling minerality. The palate is lean and focused with fresh herbs, pear and...
2017
Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreySt-Aubin
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, Burgundy, France, 2017
This superb 2.15ha monopole, located on white clay soils just behind the winery and high on the slopes above Volnay, has made one of the...
2017
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017
Back to normal yields in 2017, after a 50%, frost-related drop in 2016. This is a hauntingly aromatic expression of Les Amoureuses, sourced from a...
2017
Domaine Georges RoumierChambolle-Musigny
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017
One of the best Chambolle premiers crus of the vintage, this is another brilliant 2017 from François Millet. It's intensely coloured, with remarkable purity, focus,...
2017
Domaine Comte Georges de VogüéChambolle-Musigny
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Fourriers are one of only five owners of this superb premier cru, with a 0.89ha parcel that was planted in 1910. This is a...
2017
Domaine FourrierGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, Burgundy, France, 2017
Living up to Taillepieds' reputation as one of Volnay's very best premiers crus, this old-vine cuvée from a steep 1.05ha parcel on white clay and...
2017
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Lafarge, Volnay, 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Burgundy, France, 2017
There will be less Caillerets in 2018, not because of frost or hail for once, but because half of the vineyard has been pulled out...
2017
Domaine LafargeVolnay
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 1er Cru En Champans, Burgundy, France, 2017
The 300-metre rows in the domaine's 4ha of Champans run from the top to the bottom of the slope, taking in both brown and red...
2017
Domaine Marquis d'AngervilleVolnay
Domaine Lafarge, Volnay, 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Burgundy, France, 2017
Hand destemmed for the second vintage in a row, this comes from a 0.6ha parcel and marries a wonderful energy with Frédéric Lafarge's characteristic lightness...
2017
Domaine LafargeVolnay
Domaine Lafarge, Volnay, 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Lafarge wines are often some of the palest and most delicate in Burgundy, but don't confuse that with a lack of concentration or intensity....
2017
Domaine LafargeVolnay
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Cherbaudes, Burgundy, France, 2017
Cherbaudes is located just below Mazis-Bas, where Jean-Marie Fourrier's 0.67ha parcel was planted in 1940. This has the richness and density of a grand cru,...
2017
Domaine FourrierGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Les Goulots, Burgundy, France, 2017
Aromas of summer pudding and Turkish Delight waft from the glass on this delicious premier cru bottling. Facing east, this 0.34ha parcel was planted in...
2017
Domaine FourrierGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Combe aux Moines, Burgundy, France, 2017
Combe Aux Moines is something of a signature wine from Fourrier alongside his Clos-St-Jacques. Reflecting its elevated position, this is a bright, aromatic, wonderfully refreshing...
2017
Domaine FourrierGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, 2017
Domaine Rousseau owns one-third of the clos, with most of it in the sunniest and warmest spot against the wall. This combines impressive depth and...
2017
Domaine Armand RousseauGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Fonteny, Burgundy, France, 2017
Fonteny faces east like its neighbour Les Ruchottes, on a site with very little topsoil. There's only one barrel of this superb wine, fermented with...
2017
Domaine Dugat-PyGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Perrière, Burgundy, France, 2017
There's just one 350-litre barrel of this wine for the world, sourced from a premier cru that sits just below Mazis-Bas on fine sand and...
2017
Domaine Dugat-PyGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Mortets' five parcels here cover 1.2ha in all, and run from the top of the Combe de Lavaux to the bottom, close to the...
2017
Domaine Denis MortetGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Dujac, Blanc, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru Monts Luisants, Burgundy, France, 2017
Located at 300 metres on a slope close to the wood between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, this all-Chardonnay vineyard makes one of the Côte de Nuits'...
2017
Domaine DujacMorey-St-Denis
Hubert Lignier, Vieilles Vignes, Morey-St-Denis, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017
Two premiers crus - Faconnières and Chenevery - combine to produce this serious, structured cuvée from this increasingly impressive domaine. Rich and spicy, it has...
2017
Hubert LignierMorey-St-Denis
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Les Orveaux, Burgundy, France, 2017
Badly hit by frost in 2016 but back to normal yields in 2017, this 75-year-old 0.3ha parcel is so special that it's the source of...
2017
Domaine Sylvain CathiardVosne-Romanée
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Malconsorts, Burgundy, France, 2017
This cuvée, sourced from a 0.75ha parcel of 46-year-old vines completed its malolactic fermentation late, so was a little more backward than the other releases...
2017
Domaine Sylvain CathiardVosne-Romanée
Domaine Georges Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Les Petits Monts, Burgundy, France, 2017
There aren't many producers in this superb premier cru, but Maxime Cheurlin has certainly made the most of his 0.3ha parcel in 2017. It's focussed,...
2017
Domaine Georges NoëllatVosne-Romanée
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Les Suchots, Burgundy, France, 2017
Charles van Canneyt's 0.5ha block in Les Suchots was planted in 1910, which makes it the oldest at the domaine. In a vintage that stumped...
2017
Domaine Hudelot-NoëllatVosne-Romanée
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Malconsorts, Burgundy, France, 2017
The Hudelot-Noëllat holding of only 0.14ha is located in the upper part of this premier cru, all of it old vines planted by Charles Noëllat....
2017
Domaine Hudelot-NoëllatVosne-Romanée
Domaine de Montille, Cuvée Christiane, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Malconsorts, Burgundy, France, 2017
Considerably denser and more concentrated than the regular de Montille Malconsorts in 2017, this comes from a 0.5ha parcel of older vines. It's a very...
2017
Domaine de MontilleVosne-Romanée
Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Les Petits Monts, Burgundy, France, 2017
Les Petits Monts is owned by Véronique Drouhin rather than her family, which may be why she's such a huge fan of the premier cru....
2017
Domaine Joseph DrouhinVosne-Romanée
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Cros Parantoux, Burgundy, France, 2017
Made with old-vine fruit from one of Vosne's most famous premiers crus - partly because of its association with the legendary Henri Jayer - this...
2017
Domaine Méo-CamuzetVosne-Romanée
Benjamin Leroux, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Au-Dessus des Malconsorts, Burgundy, France, 2017
Located next to Les Gaudichots and above Les Malconsorts, this little-known premier cru is high on the slope of Vosne-Romanée next to Nuits-St-Georges. The resulting...
2017
Benjamin LerouxVosne-Romanée
Domaine Robert Groffier, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017
With their 1.2ha of Les Amoureuses, the Groffiers are the biggest owners of this celebrated premier cru, ahead of Joseph Drouhin. Showing subtle reduction in...
2017
Domaine Robert GroffierChambolle-Musigny
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2017
Ghislaine Barthod's two parcels of Charmes are both in the more southerly part of the premier cru and can make one of the more reticent...
2017
Domaine Ghislaine BarthodChambolle-Musigny
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Burgundy, France, 2017
Not quite love at first sip, but not far off. This is a characteristically svelte and refined expression of Les Amoureuses from Fred Mugnier. It...
2017
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric MugnierChambolle-Musigny
