Best Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 plus late releases
Michaela Morris explores the relevance of Chianti's Riserva category, and tastes 24 new releases from the 2018 and 2017 vintages.
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Sitting between high-calibre annata and ambitious Gran Selezione, Riserva runs the risk of being Chianti Classico’s middle child. And, in some respects, the category does have a bit of an identity crisis.
Riserva represents 32% of Chianti Classico’s production. According to Francesco Mazzei at Castello di Fonterutoli, sales are booming thanks in part to the success of the Gran Selezione category. ‘Gran Selezione is the magnet that attracts people to try the quality of Chianti Classico, and the Riserva are more affordable,’ he declares.
Nevertheless, among the new releases, several producers already showing 2018 Gran Seleziones were just coming out with their 2017 Riserva.
Scroll down for Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 wines – plus late releases from 2017
How do the categories compare?
On the one hand, over-performing annata from 2018 and 2019 eclipse the handful of underperforming Riserva. This may be due in part to the fact that some producers don’t even make a Riserva, instead crafting an annata that essentially meets the former’s production standards.
Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi at Rocca di Montegrossi is among those who skip the Riserva level. ‘I find that there is little difference between Riserva and Gran Selezione,’ he explains, referring to ageing requirements of 24 versus 30 months respectively.
Conversely, the Riserva category also includes many of the denomination’s finest wines. Among these are wines from producers who eschew the Gran Selezione classification, declaring their top Chianti Classico as a Riserva.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2018
The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva wines mirrored the heterogeneous nature of the vintage found in the annata.
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There are lithe examples – illustrated by Castellina di Castellare and Bibbiano – as well as plump, warm expressions offered by Castagnoli and Riecine. A couple felt like they had the edges knocked off, leaving me thirsting for a bit more drama, but overall they are an affable and beguiling bunch.
Once again, careful vineyard selection and picking dates were key in areas affected by rain.
In Radda, Poggerino’s Piero Lanza had to bring in fruit from more humid plots early – in mid-September – due to the threat of botrytis and acid rot. However, less prone parcels including his Riserva vineyard were harvested later – between 25 September and 11 October. ‘I obtained a wine with more structure, higher alcohol and aromas of mature red fruit,’ he maintains.
In Gaiole, Riecine’s Alessandro Campatelli reported less rain in August than Radda (76 mm compared to 200mm) as well as high diurnal temperature ranges leading up to harvest in October. ‘2018 will likely be highly regarded in the future thanks to its acidity levels that will give it much life ahead,’ he asserts.
Ageability is certainly a desired trait in a Riserva. Of the 2018s I’ve tried so far, they are already accessible with seven to ten years of cellaring potential.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2017
In my tastings this year, the most delightful surprises came from the 2017 Riserva. In general, the wines served to highlight the skill of the region’s winemakers. The characteristics of the hot, dry vintage were certainly on display with an inevitable concentration of all elements. Some demonstrated unresolved tannins, but few were lacking acidity.
The top performers, like San Giusto a Rentennano and Monte Bernardi, captured the arid warmth while achieving striking balance. Others that stood out hail from cooler zones, such as Erta di Radda and Val delle Corti, both in Radda.
While I don’t feel that Riserva always guarantees a step up from annata, I do believe that many approach the level of Gran Selezione. Above all, amongst both the 2017 and 2018 vintages there are plenty of Riserva wines with a well-defined and singular identity.
Top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 and late releases:
View all 24 Chianti Classico Riserva wines tasted
View all 24 wines tasted
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