Best Pauillac 2019 wines tasted en primeur

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Plenty of excellent Pauillac wines in 2019. Overall the appellation has performed better than 2015, similar to 2018, perhaps still a little below 2016 which remains the benchmark of the last five years in this corner of the Médoc.

There were concerns over water stress, as everywhere, but the rain fell at the right time, as noted by Philippe Dhalluin at Château Mouton Rothschild, where they recorded 31mm in July and 31mm in August.

Yields overall were relatively normal with an average of 46.7hl/ha (up from 38.5hl/ha average last year). Looking at individual châteaux, we saw Château Latour at 44.7hl/ha compared to the average for the estate of 24hl/ha, and Pontet-Canet back to a normal amount after a tiny mildew-affected 12hl/ha in 2018.

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Ten wines scored 95 points or above, with five under 90 points.

Only one 98-100, which was Latour, with Lafite and Mouton both at 98, along with Pichon Comtesse – meaning all are outstanding, and all have the potential to go to 100 when re-tasted in bottle.

Just behind, but also exceptionally good, are Pichon Baron and Lynch Bages (both 97 points), followed by excellent performances by Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Clerc Milon and Pontet-Canet.

The rest (20 or so) are between 90-94, so at Highly Recommended level, suggesting this is an extremely consistent and impressive vintage. A good crop at 94 points – Pedesclaux, Duhart Milon, Petit Mouton and Batailley, all of which I would roundly recommend.

The three Pauillac Firsts are extremely different in personality this year, very true to themselves and really look set to power through the decades ahead – and all with high levels of Cabernet Sauvignon, with 92.5% at Latour, 94% at Lafite and 90% at Mouton.

A few new things to report in Pauillac, not least that this is the last vintage at Mouton Rothschild before Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy comes over from Clerc Milon as technical director. Philippe Dhalluin, who has so brilliantly headed up the team since 2003, will be remaining in place for the foreseeable future, but he will step back from daily operational control. A huge loss, but Danjoy has been making some of the most exciting wines of Bordeaux at Clerc Milon, so I look forward to seeing what he brings to the brilliance of Mouton.

Another big personnel change to look out for at Pontet-Canet, where 2019 will be the last vintage under Jean-Michel Comme as estate director after 32 ground-breaking years in the job. The man stepping into his rather dauntingly-big shoes is Mathieu Bessonnet, who has spent the past 15 years working with Michel Chapoutier. Elsewhere, work on the new Lynch Bages cellar had to be temporarily halted due to Covid-19, but should be ready for 2021.

Top Scoring

Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Pichon Comtesse, Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages.

Best Value

La Fleur Peybaron, Fonbadet, Grand Puy Lacoste if priced well.

Batailley is not inexpensive of course, but it’s a buy for me, a delicious, brilliantly characterful wine with great appellation signature.

See the top-rated Pauillac 2019 wines

The following wines have all been scored 93 points and above

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