Bouchard Finlayson: tasting new releases
A recent tasting of new releases across the Bouchard Finlayson range showed not only approachable, reasonably-priced wines but also age-worthy, Burgundian-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all with quality and freshness in mind.
A selection of new releases from South African winery Bouchard Finlayson were showcased at a recent tasting at the Milestone Hotel in London, part of the Red Carnation Hotels group.
Master Sommelier and DWWA judge Eric Zwiebel presented the wines, talking guests through the history of the Bouchard Finlayson estate and the tasting profile of each wine.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Bouchard Finlayson wines
Burgundy: a dedication
Founded by Peter Finlayson in 1989, this ambitious winery set out to make top quality wines in South Africa from the start. Travelling to France, Finlayson met with the Bouchard family, with the idea of bringing a little bit of Burgundy to South Africa.
As a result, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would become the centerpiece of Bouchard Finlayson’s production. Many of the resulting wines are a nod to the Burgundian style.
The Bouchard Finlayson estate is in Hermanus, with the vineyards of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley stretching out northwards from the coast. The climate here is distinctly cooler than it is towards Cape Town.
Showcasing the Bouchard Finlayson range: the whites
The first wines presented at the tasting were the more entry-level range: the intriguing Blanc de Mer blend 2019 and the Sauvignon Blanc 2019.
The former is a majority Riesling blend, with 20% Viognier, 9% Chardonnay, and 2% Sauvignon Blanc for good measure. To say the blend is unusual is an understatement, but the fresh lemony character has its place as an aperitif.
Whilst Sauvignon Blanc is one of South Africa’s most popular wines, the example from Bouchard Finlayson is understandably less well-known, given the focus on predominantly Burgundian varieties.
The 2020 offers a balance between freshly cut grass, lime zest and a mineral edge. It is less of a tropical fruit bomb than you might expect.
These entry-level wines are presented as the house wines at the hotels within the Red Carnation group. All of the wines are also available at retail in the UK. (See stockist and price details listed within each wine below).
The Chardonnays
Three different Chardonnay cuvées were shown at the tasting. The Sans Barrique 2018, Kaaimansgat 2018 and Missionvale 2018, of which only the latter comes from estate vineyards. The 2018 vintage was dry but the resulting quality of fruit was high.
The standout Chardonnay was the Missionvale, and the price point reflects this, although it still offers good value for money. The majority is fermented in oak, 30% new, with a small proportion of the wine fermented in terracotta amphora. The ripe buttery characters are complemented by nutty, bruised apple notes and a grippy, textural mouthfeel.
A vein of freshness and salinity runs through all three Chardonnays, a result of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley’s maritime climate.
Showcasing the Bouchard Finlayson range: the reds
The Galpin Peak Pinot Noir is Bouchard Finlayson’s flagship wine. The 2019 iteration is smoky and brooding on the nose and open and inviting on the palate, providing instant gratification.
Wildfires caused havoc throughout the Hemel-en-Aarde in January of 2019, just weeks before harvest. Bouchard Finalyson was not badly affected, however there was widespread destruction around other famous estates, such as Hamilton Russell.
If the Galpin Peak Pinot is the flagship, then the Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir is the crème de la crème of the Bouchard Finlayson range. It is lovingly put together using only the best barrels of Galpin Peak.
It represents a complex marriage of the best new and old wood, and some of the oldest vines on the estate. The 2019 is elegant and seductive, balancing savoury animal characters with sweet violet and cranberry notes. It comes with a hefty price tag, but shows excellent potential to age.
The tasting concluded with the 2018 Hannibal, a surprising blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Mourvedre and Barbera.
It is difficult to know what to expect of such a blend. However, it succeeds in producing a full-bodied, dense style with a different spectrum of aromatics to the Pinots. Spice, liquorice and leather, and more black fruit than red. A coming together of Italian and French cultivars in a distinctly South African climate.
With higher levels of tannin and generous alcohol, Zwiebel suggests venison or wild boar will go well with this wine.
See tasting notes and scores for eight Bouchard Finlayson wines:
Wines are listed in score order by colour
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Hemel-en-Aarde wineries to visit
Bouchard Finlayson, Missionvale Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2018
93
Ripe and buttery aromas are complemented by peach and grapefruit flavours. Toasty, smoky and cream cheesy, this is rich and inviting, intensely spicy and texural, leaving a slight grip on the teeth. Certainly a wine for food, like scallops or barbecued salmon. This is young but vibrant. 2018 was quite a dry vintage, but the intermittent showers led to a successful harvest. Grapes were hand-harvested, gently pressed and the juice transferred to French oak to undergo fermentation, a third of which was new. 10% of the wine was fermented in terracotta amphora, which arguably lends a textural, full sensation in the mouth.
2018
Bouchard FinlaysonHemel-en-Aarde
Bouchard Finlayson, Crocodile’s Lair / Kaaimansgat Chardonnay, Overberg, South Africa, 2018
92
Lots of ripe white peach and blossom aromas play with warming vanilla, smoke and toast characters, providing an inviting sensory experience. A mineral edge creeps into the palate, which is enhanced by a spicy acidity. There's noticeable oak influence, but it's integrated and serves to add complexity to the pineapple and buttery melon flavours, finishing with a nutty note. This wine has been fermented in a mixture of old and new oak, and a proportion did not go through malolactic fermentation, thus retaining some freshness. The Kaaimansgat vineyard is tucked away in a valley between mountains but is still situated at 700m elevation. This high altitude means the Chardonnay grapes ripen much later and the generally cooler climate means there is no irrigation, and the berries are small and highly concentrated. The 2018 vintage was low-yielding but consistent.
2018
Bouchard Finlayson
Bouchard Finlayson, Sans Barrique Chardonnay , Cape South Coast, South Africa, 2018
92
With the focus being on purity of fruit, this is an unoaked style of Chardonnay which was fermented in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation. This has given a subtle and elegant nose of white peach, blossom and honeysuckle. A distinct ripeness of fruit comes through, more towards the stone and tropical fruit direction. It's full bodied and long. Grapes are sourced partly from estate vineyards and partly from a vineyard site in the Elandskloof valley, Overberg.
2018
Bouchard Finlayson
Bouchard Finlayson, Sauvignon Blanc , Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2020
91
This treads a nice line between freshly cut grass and lemon and lime lift. It's not a tropical fruit bomb, instead a pithy key lime pie with a serious mineral, stony edge. The palate is big with bright florals, developing a richness, from significant extended lees maturation, which lingers through to the finish. Lying some five km from the cool Atlantic ocean, the 25-year-old vines benefit from tempering sea breezes. Soils are a heavy shale clay, typical for this Hemel-en-Aarde area.
2020
Bouchard FinlaysonHemel-en-Aarde
Bouchard Finlayson, Blanc de Mer , Cape South Coast, South Africa, 2019
89
Intensely limey and lemony on the nose, with fresh, friendly and inviting characters of lemon pith, yellow apples and jasmine blossom. Grapefruit overtones, with salty and mineral undertones. This is not a classic combination of grape varieties, but it's a fun, enjoyable wine made for fresh seafood. Less than three weeks before grapes were picked, a terrible wild fire raged through the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Thankfully the grapes were not affected, yet the yield was slightly lower.
2019
Bouchard Finlayson
Bouchard Finlayson, Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2019
95
A superb Pinot put together using only the very best barrels of Bouchard Finlayson's flagship wine, Galpin Peak, and only made in exceptional years. A complex selection and marriage of the best new wood, coming from some of the oldest vines on the estate. This is certainly a wine designed to age. In 2019 wildfires caused havoc in much of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, but these vineyards suffered little damage. The nose can only be described as elegant and seductive. It has a delicate combination of savoury, earthy, animal characters and floral violet and cranberry notes. Spice and zippy acid lend good finesse to this well-balanced wine and cement its ability to age well.
2019
Bouchard FinlaysonHemel-en-Aarde
Bouchard Finlayson, Galpin Peak Pinot Noir , Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2019
93
Smoky and brooding on the nose, with a deep undercurrent of red currants, red cherries, bramble and dark berries. It's both savoury and full of sweet fruit and toasted almonds, providing instant gratification. Open and inviting, and does feel a little warm on the finish. This will develop very nicely. It saw a three day pre-fermentation cold soak, gentle pressing, and maturation in French oak, of which 30% was new.
2019
Bouchard FinlaysonHemel-en-Aarde
Bouchard Finlayson, Hannibal , Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2018
90
Intense and dominated by big spicy, meaty aromas, which follow through onto the palate. Dark ripe fruit mingles with leather and liquorice, a slightly charred, burnt character and grippy tannins. This is dominated mostly by Italian varieties Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, but the remainder of the blend consists of Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Mourvedre and Barbera - an unusual mix to say the least! Originally the Shiraz grapes had been sourced from a neighbouring vineyard for this cuvée, but in 2018 the estate's own Shiraz vines produced a quality crop and therefore went into this blend. Each variety is fermented separately and aged for almost a year in French oak, with the blend being finalised afterwards.
2018
Bouchard FinlaysonHemel-en-Aarde
