Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015: vintage report and top wines

After the success of the Brunello 2015s, there was hardly a doubt that the vintage would offer a profusion of Riserva bottlings.

In 2015, the warm, sunny and dry conditions produced an abundant crop of healthy and ripe grapes. ‘It isn’t a year with defects from the warmth – only merits,’ says Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra. With ample fruit and plentiful ripe tannins, ‘2015 was a year extremely suited to ageing,’ according to Andrea Costanti.

Scroll down to see Michaela Morris’ top-scoring Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 wines

Defining Riserva

The overarching ideal is that a wine destined to be a Riserva boasts sufficient structure to withstand extended maturation.

Ageing regulations stipulate a minimum of five years from the January following harvest with at least two in barrel. Equally, the wine should be cellar-worthy once released.

Often touted as ‘a selection of the best grapes’, many Riserva wines see producers identifying small bunches with thick-skinned berries throughout their vineyards, but interpretations vary by estate.

Vine age

Biondi-Santi’s approach is held up as a reference where selection is based on age of vines; over 25 years old for this estate. But even here, changes are afoot. Since being acquired by luxury company EPI in 2016, Biondi-Santi has launched extensive studies of its vineyards in part to distinguish which parcels are best suited to Rosso, Brunello or Riserva. ‘For now, the selection is still made by the age of the vines because this is what we inherited,’ explains Federico Radi, the estate’s new technical director. ‘But in the future, this might not be the case.’

Vineyard sites

Specific vineyards singled out for Riserva bottlings may correspond to an estate’s oldest vines. With a highly accomplished example in 2015, Cortonesi’s Riserva always hails from a plot planted in 1983. ‘Only grapes from this vineyard succeed in giving a wine with the depth suitable for long ageing in barrel,’ explains Tommaso Cortonesi.

Vintage conditions

At Canalicchio di Sopra, vine age matters but the site varies according to vintage conditions. Among my top Brunello 2015 Riserva wines, the estate’s bottling was crafted from the north-facing, breezy Vigna Vecchia Mercantale, which maintained freshness in the vintage’s warm conditions. In cooler years like 2013 and 2018, however, holdings in Montosoli were chosen instead.

Barrel selection

Andrea Costanti at Conti Costanti believes that the right exposition counts more than vine age. Another outstanding wine in 2015, his Riserva is not determined in the vineyard but rather from the wine in barrel. ‘A Riserva is one with greater tannins and acidity; that is, aimed at longer ageing,’ he states.

Similarly, Alessandro Mori at Il Marroneto points to the unique characteristics that emerge once the wine is in barrel. He produced his first and only Riserva to date in 2013 from a single cask of Madonna delle Grazie. Notably, he did not make one in 2015.

See all 40 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 tasting notes & scores

Diversity

This underlines that even years considered great do not translate as the ‘best vintage’ for all producers. It also alludes to Montalcino’s diversity. ‘Every side of the hill has different soils and climate,’ says Bernardino Sani, CEO of Argiano, admitting that he had to harvest earlier than desired in 2015 due to the heat. Referring specifically to Argiano’s production, he says ‘I think they lack a bit of the complexity compared to the 2016s.’

Located in a cooler, high altitude area, Le Potazzine favoured 2015 and will not even be releasing a 2016 Riserva. ‘Despite being two excellent vintages, we felt that 2015 had the right characteristics for a Riserva,” states owner Gigliola Giannetti, citing greater complexity, structure and density. Aged for 60 months in barrel, Le Potazzine’s 2015 Riserva will not be released until 2022.

And we will have to wait until 2025 for Le Chiuse’s 2015 Riserva. Since 2010, the winery holds its Riserva back for 10 years.

The objective is to highlight how the Riserva category differs from Brunello or Rosso. ‘It lets me show three wines in different moments of their evolution without the risk of one competing with another,’ adds winemaker Lorenzo Magnelli.

Brunello Riserva 2015: conclusions

The 40 Brunello 2015 Riserva wines I sampled included many of the region’s top producers. As befitting the vintage in general, overall quality was impressive. While not all were better, some – such as La Màgia, Sesta di Sopra and Sesti – were an appropriate step up.

Tasted alongside the 2016s, Brunello’s 2015 Riservas held their own in terms of acidity – not as racy but still succulent. I was particularly impressed by those that expressed elegance over brawn, such as Padelletti and Castello Romitorio. Similarly, those from decidedly warm pockets like Lisini and Ciacci Piccolomini preserved remarkable freshness.

Conversely, a handful demonstrated shortcomings found in the vintage, for example a lack of precision, noticeable alcohol or ungainly oak. The least successful did not exhibit the hallmarks of a Riserva and will be best in the short term.

The 2015 vintage produced outgoing wines. Even at the Riserva level, some are almost approachable. Nevertheless, they possess the stuffing and structure to age 15 years or more. Top wines like Fuligni and Conti Costanti will show better after a few years. Hardly any, however, were patently backward – Gianni Brunelli and Livio Sassetti being two such exceptions.

Above all, on display was the charm and generosity of the 2015 vintage. There is much to like among the Brunello 2015 Riserva wines. But as always, discernment is key.

Top Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015:

Click here to see all 40 Brunello Riserva 2015 tasting notes and scores

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