Brunello Riserva 2017 & late releases report: 17 wines to buy

Le-Potazzine-looking-toward-Montalcino — Le Potazzine looking towards Montalcino.

(Image credit: Michaela Morris / Decanter)

See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Read Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 vintage report

When I arrived at Montalcino’s ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ tastings of the new releases, I was not expecting to taste many Riserva. Sabina Sassetti at Pertimali echoed many of her peers’ reasonings: ‘We only produce Riserva in the best vintages, which generally correspond with those that the consortium awards five stars’ – 2017 was granted four stars.

While the torrid, dry vintage did yield concentrated wines with substantial structure, fully mature flavours and dry tannins did not bode well for lengthy cellaring. ‘2017 isn’t a vintage for ageing; instead, it is for drinking soon,’ concurred Bernardino Sani at Argiano. The focus for many estates was on making the best possible annata Brunello.

Scroll down to see all 17 recommended Riserva and late-release Brunellos

So, it was to my surprise that a generous set of Riserva were on display – 35 in total – yet after tasting through them all, I can honestly say that only a small handful truly distinguished themselves.

For the majority, additional maturation in cask didn’t appear to improve the wines. Nor do they require long ageing – like most of the annata, they are ready to drink now and best over the near-term.That said, the exceptions were gratifying and will reward cellaring. Elisa Sesti seemed as astonished as I was that the estate produced a Riserva. ‘When we tried the wine after three years in barrel, it told us that it needed more time.’

Katia Nussbaum at San Polino was more bullish. ‘2017 was an outrageously good year for us,’ she declared, adding that one particular vat stood out. However, due to the general perception of 2017, she bottled less than one-third of what she could have as Riserva.

Likewise for Ridolfi: Arber Shabani explained that a single cask was clearly superior to the rest, both during fermentation and after 36 months of ageing. ‘The wine expressed a verticality and depth that is typical of Montalcino’s Riservas,’ he stated.

Other Brunello Riserva 2017s worth seeking out are those from Capanna, Fattoi and Poggio Antico.

Late releases

Along with the Riserva, two late release annata 2017s made their debut. With an additional year of bottle age, Salicutti’s Teatro and Lisini’s Ugolaia are among the best of the vintage.

Finally, a handful of Riserva from preceding vintages were unveiled. Biondi-Santi’s 2016 Riserva is as good as the estate’s exceptional annata; Le Potazzine’s release, the 2015 vintage, was the result of lengthy barrel ageing; and Le Chiuse’s 10-year release was a surprisingly muscular 2013 – a fitting conclusion given the comparisons between 2018 and 2013.

Standout Brunello Riserva 2017

Sesti Phenomena An appropriate step up from the estate’s annata, Phenomena is one of the truly ageworthy wines of the vintage.

San Polino An exuberant Riserva that captures both the warmth and dryness of the year yet turns these into maximum pleasure.

Capanna This speaks to the strength of old vines and terroir of Montosoli overcoming a challenging vintage.