Cellar Collection 2023 at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter

The current vintage, 2018, represents a restyling which takes La Poja in a direction which Francesco Allegrini describes as ‘more contemporary’, with softer extraction and less new oak. The result is a wine with a pale Corvina shade, bright fruit and violets, and a hint of wood smoke on the nose. The palate shows great intensity, with tight, fine-grained tannins and juicy acidity. From a vintage with super potential, this is a La Poja with more length than breadth at the moment, but is destined to open up over the mid-term.

So lively and vibrant, with crunchy cranberry, pomegranate, red cherry and blackcurrant jumping from the glass, topped by hints of wild herbs, cedar and green olive. Layered and complex palate with a core of red fruit lined with blood-orange zest, nutmeg, dark chocolate, thyme and oregano. Refreshing, zesty tannins. Lively acidity throughout. Harmonious now, yet it still has such a long way to go.

When tasted at 15 years, complexity remains. Ample florality brightens the aromas of black fruits, earth and faint hints of wood smoke. The palate shows density of dark fruits, black brambles and polished notes of plum. Sweet spices envelope the finish. A lovely wine from this esteemed estate.

This vintage shows great precision at four years of age, though still very young and precocious. Deep mineral tones leap from the glass, the crushed slate, smoke and bright blue fruits accented by a savoury note of garrigue and lavender. Lovely elegance on the palate as black and red berry fruits are met with an earth-driven minerality. Umami notes of dried morel mushrooms, a touch of soy and chicory lead to wisps of pencil lead. While a joy to taste so young, this wine has a long life ahead.

‘2013 was a special vintage for us,’ explains Bernardo Manetti, son of owner Giovanni Manetti. Fontodi showed three excellent vintages in the Cellar Collection room at the 2023 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter – 2006, 2010 and 2013 – but the latter was the pick of the bunch for its powerful tannic structure juxtaposed with juicy acidity, perfumed, finessed fruit and cedary, tobacco inflections. Gorgeous!

Named after the beast Chimera in Greek mythology which is formed by three different animal parts, Quimera is a blend of mainly Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged partially in new oak. Now 16 years old, it exudes a tertiary bouquet of soy sauce and dried flowers, revealing an undertone of blackberry and blackcurrant. The palate impresses with its mellow, velvety tannins, melted in a concentrated core of savoury, fulfilling dark fruits, refreshed with vibrant acidity and a touch of minerals. Only a touch of warm spice towards the long finish, hints at the 14% alcohol. A beautiful, perfectly orchestrated red blend now at its prime.

A beautifully developing Clos Vougeot that showcases a complex bouquet that opens with mushroom and dried herbs, leading to perfumed sour cranberry, blackberry and smoky oak. Juicy and vibrant, the ripe red and black cherries are caressed by mellowing but well-structured tannins, exuberating great harmony and elegance. The savoury depth and bright acidity linger on a finish of dried cranberry and Earl Grey tea.

The 2001 vintage in Napa was known for its warmth and consistency, and this resulting Cabernet is just that, and a throwback to the region's classic style. Aromas of eucalyptus, cassis, clove and bay leaf leads to an elegant palate whose freshness belies its 22 years. Red fruits mark the initial attack, then green tea leaf, chicory and polished red and black berry fruits follow.

Produttori del Barbaresco is a highly regarded cooperative that makes beautifully fragrant, pure wines, and this 2005 Pajé Riserva is my pick of the three vintages on show in the Cellar Collection room at the 2023 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter. While the 2016 shows the most promise in terms of outright quality, and the 2013 is succulent and juicy but a touch drying on the finish, the 2005 is beautifully perfumed and shows balsamic freshness, with fine tannins still providing support for the core of fresh and dried cherries, flecked by tertiary notes of leather and tobacco, and some cedary woodiness on the finish.

Aromatically shy at first, this wine slowly opens up to strawberries, tomato leaf, balsamic and smoky notes of espresso coffee. It is starting to show maturation as the palate morphs from dark fruit to savoury characters and well-integrated oak influence. Vanilla and mocha frame blue and black berry fruits, clove and tobacco leaf.

A refined, exceedingly elegant Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) blend from a producer known for upholding the region's traditional styles. The 2006 greets with savoury notes of undergrowth, plus a creamy touch of oak from 18 months of ageing (15% new) in 500-litre Hungarian barrels. Rose petal potpourri, dark cherry and plummy ripeness with hints of savoury wildness and dark spices. The velvety tannins glide effortlessly on the tongue, the great length lifted by still-vibrant acidity, hinting at the 50% Kékfrankos.

The label of this wine tells the history of Malbec by depicting four women: Eleanor of Aquitaine symbolises the birth of Malbec, the Immigrant for its movement to the New World, Madame Phylloxera for the 'death' of Malbec in the Old World, and Adrianna Catena for the variety's rise in Argentina. Aged in 100% new French oak for 18 months, this 2015 boasts cedar-scented blackberry and sour dark cherry with tertiary complexity of undergrowth and mushroom. More salinity on the dark fruited palate, with great freshness to balance. The cocoa powder-like tannins leave a firm grip, leading to a long, sweetly spiced finish of prunes and dark plums.

Open and ready to drink, this 2012 has approachable fluidity and suppleness, its lifted mulberry and blackberry aromas entangled with cedar and spice. A silky mouthfeel is peppered with flavours of tomato leaf and driving acidity on the finish.

Tasted in the Cellar Collection room at the 2023 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter, alongside the 2012 and 2019 vintages, this 2006 is in a lovely window right now: herbal and minty, it's really succulent, stony and sapid, with chocolatey fruits then some woodiness still apparent on the finish.